windows wont roll up without help

[632 Regal]

Just does the infamous thump thump thump unless I help it. Isn't this some gear that gets worn? Saw the round gear on ebay but they want $25 each. Didn't find anything in search or archives. Don't want to pull it apart until I have a better idea and order parts.

TIA

[shogun]

All windows? Or only front or rear? I cannot believe that all window gears are suddenly broken.
Did you check all fuses related to this, also under the rear seat? That is controlled by the GM under rear seat = ZKE = central chassis electronics.

The GM has an internal protection system for overload.

Window lifter and SHD=electric sunroof: There are priorities as shown in the technical training manual of the ZKE=central chassis electronics. The relay switches off when
- longer than 60 seconds 36A are recorded
-or if longer than 0,3 seconds there is between 36 and 60A recorded
-or (overloading) - if longer than 0,1 seconds more than 60A flows (short-circuit)
In order to protect the load current circles TSH/ZV/ZS/FH/SHD safely against overload, additionally to the 30A protection an electronic (reversible) current protection is installed in the GM and that is based on the voltage drop on the RM, and depending upon voltage drop (current threshold) the safety relay interrupts the load current. The switching off values of the 30A protection are not reached thereby (these became only then to melt, if a defect at the electronic protection is present). The response threshold of this electronic protection is in such a way put that always before overload of the attached controls one switches off automatically. Automatic restarting takes place after 60 seconds!!!!
However then only if these consumers were switched off and/or no short-circuit is present. Automatic restarting can take place 6 x with switched on Kl./terminal 15. This barrier waived by switching the Kl off. 15. In order not to reach the minimum trigger level when simultaneous switching on of several power consumers, only 2 can be used simultaneously ith the FH/electric window switches. If several buttons are operated at the same time, then only the two first switched ones are implemented. If the overload limit should be already exceeded with 2 switched on FH/window switches, then one FH/window switch is switched off. The FH/window switches for front doors have priority.


Here is the ZKE, unfortunately I only have it it German, but the drawings will help
http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/s-zke.htm
function diagram FH = Fensterheber function diagram FH = Fensterheber = window lifter
http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/daten/zke/bild16.jpg
http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/daten/zke/bild11.jpg
there is also a window limit switch, that is described here

retype it and then use google translate
http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/daten/zke/bild13.jpg

[mattyb]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BMW-e34-e36-e92-e85-e86-window-regulator-Clip-pair-/300946431736?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4611ce1ef8

I had a similar problem, these clips fixed it. basically the grease on the rails dries and the clips grab and break not allowing the smooth transition of the window up and down. 5 minutes to fix. maybe same with yours

[632 Regal]

Thanks guys:

Matty, I ordered 8 of them for 11.98 usd ;) Can't find the main center one though, seems unavailable so far.

Erich, It is a mechanical problem on the rear windows, one side is worse than the other. I will clean and install new sliders but think there might be something worn (a gear) that I should replace.

[ScottyWM]

Here: My Post. (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php/43751-Is-this-the-window-regulator?highlight=regulator) Link to the sound it makes when the gear gets stripped. A lot easier to replace the motor than just the gear I believe.

[632 Regal]

Thanks for finding that!

I will take my motor apart when I get the new sliders and check the gear and figure out what to do from there: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-Window-Regulator-Motor-Repair-Kit-E34-520i-525i-td-/141145565581?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20dcee698d

I see what I have been writing is wrong. I have been referring to the regulator which is the scissor piece instead of the motor. I have a motor/gear issue thing that might be okay with the new sliders not a regulator issue.

Doesn't lithium grease dry out over time? What's the best to use on the sliders?

Here is what mine sounds like:


http://youtu.be/XGmMmUPjtsQ

[shogun]

Not sure what is the best for the sliders in the bottom rail of the scissors. I cleaned that rail completely from old hardened grease, put in the new white plastic sliders and then used motorbike chain grease/lube, that as per the advertisement:
Reduces friction and wear
Decreases power losses and protects from corrosion
Will not fling-off or attract dirt, sand or grit

Works on my car

[632 Regal]

Not sure what is the best for the sliders in the bottom rail of the scissors. I cleaned that rail completely from old hardened grease, put in the new white plastic sliders and then used motorbike chain grease/lube, that as per the advertisement:
Reduces friction and wear
Decreases power losses and protects from corrosion
Will not fling-off or attract dirt, sand or grit

Works on my car

We have cold in winter. best thing is clean them up..Any experienca with the synthetic paste? I really am looking for something that will easily last 100 years. I just been outta here so long I missed it. LOL

[genphreak]

Main thing is to seal the door to prevent dirt being drawn through the door card as part of driving turbulence. That reduces contamination of the grease- but certainly not for 100 yrs! Not sure that something like common Lithium Molybdenum grease or the like it the best thing- the nylon may not like it... but who knows??

[632 Regal]

I Just don't want to use some grease that dries up in a few years contributing to this failure. I did use lithium in the 94 and never again had a problem. I will check how that grease has aged since I did it in circa 2005ish . Then again if it lasted this long without problems it is definitely being considered. I still have a tub of that that I purchased for this exact use. I must have checked it out back then.

[genphreak]

I Just don't want to use some grease that dries up in a few years contributing to this failure. I did use lithium in the 94 and never again had a problem. I will check how that grease has aged since I did it in circa 2005ish . Then again if it lasted this long without problems it is definitely being considered. I still have a tub of that that I purchased for this exact use. I must have checked it out back then.

Cool. Pls let us know... the grease not only needs to be nylon friendly but capable of hanging on in the high temperatures that doors can heat up to in the sun. Here in Oz I imagine that could be damn near water's boiling point... It's a big ask for a lump of grease!

[BMWFatherFigure]

Factory uses white zinc grease (Castrol also make it). Only lasts 20 years though. LOL...

[632 Regal]

Looking into it, can't find the tub I used 10 or so years ago either. Still have to check things out, too cold right now. Actually not too cold it is the wind preventing me from doing things.