What e-torx socket needed to R&R trans?

[632 Regal]

I don't have any and have not found anything in regards on the net. Any help is appreciated.

[mattyb]

sorry mate nothing in Bentley

[shogun]

You mean to remove the transmission, the torx which hold the trans on the engine? Which engine and trans do you have? Should be seen from www.realoem.com
For example 540 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE63&mospid=47410&btnr=24_1268&hg=24&fg=10&lang=enUS
For example Harborfreight has a set for $8.99 : E6, E7, E8, E10, E12, E14, and E16
1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive External Impact Star Socket Set 7 Pc
That should do it.

[632 Regal]

Sorry for the bland description, it's a 96 E36 328. Yes need to R&R the transmission.

Mounting & suspension! Never would have thought to look there. Thanks Erich!

[632 Regal]

Any write ups on R&R trans? Particularly the E36. Vary vague is all I find. Something about top bolts and a certain way to remove and replace the torque converter/flywheel separate from trans, which if the pump doesn't line up can blow the pump.

Very unsure so far. Will check the link now.

[shogun]

I can only tell you from the E32 750. For the top bolts we used very long extensions, and to get the bolts in again, put a magnet in the tool or get tools with a magnet inside to the bolt will not drop.
The bolts which hold the trans on the engine are not all same size , at least on the E32 750 with 4HP24.
Do you have a pit or a lift? Without lift and oit Johan made it on his E32 http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/gearbox_swap/gearbox_swap.html
The MOST important when you install the trans again is to install the torque converter correctly, many do not slip it in enough and then the oil pump is broken.
Bookmark this http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/BMWtechinfo.htm

[632 Regal]

Thanks! The access on the 4L30 to the torque converter bolts is about 1 inch wide by 2 inch long. Not sure how that is going to work out. I ordered a whole set of the E-torx bits so I will have what is needed. Aside from the TC bolts the rest just looks like a lot of work. More reading and I should figure it out.

[ahlem]

It's been a couple years since I did an engine and trans on an e30 but as I recall, a 12 point wrench came in real handy to get things going and give you maximum clearance. I may have used a racheting socket from Harbor freight and used the torx socket for final tightening. It would be worth messing around with all these to see if it helps your situation. I may have welded a handle to a torx socket since I just saw one in my tool box.

[632 Regal]

It's been a couple years since I did an engine and trans on an e30 but as I recall, a 12 point wrench came in real handy to get things going and give you maximum clearance. I may have used a racheting socket from Harbor freight and used the torx socket for final tightening. It would be worth messing around with all these to see if it helps your situation. I may have welded a handle to a torx socket since I just saw one in my tool box.

LOL not looking forward to it since my kid has no interest.. Might just leave the thing sit til his mom comes into the picture bitching. If it was my car it be different, I would expect help from my kid but no interest.

[Rustam]

If you're interested in removal only for now, then maybe 8mm socket can help. I use it on the torx bolts going from the transmission to the oil pan, on my 535. The star fits perfectly into the socket.

[ryan roopnarine]

Nowadays inconsiderate people check their facebook before they check this site...what's the story on the 3 series--is it supposed to be your son's? As you probably saw during your efforts, it's a pretty straightforward deal to get it out.

Shogun's warning is the same one applicable to any torque converter/transmission replacement. You screw the torque converter on until it engages some, then keep spinning it till it drops down again. I spin that SOB for 30 seconds to make sure it's dropped in all the way. It might be helpful to shave down a 13mm in order to get into the access hole for the torque converter bolts more easily. IIRC, I used a 1/4 in drive 13mm on an extension to get in there. Maybe that info will be useful to you when you are reassembling things.


So what's the story with the 270 to 310? Is there someone else who's executed this swap successfully? I replaced the unit on a 92 525i with the unit from a 93 325i (variable valve timing) and I had to change the output flange--for starters. Additionally, the transmission computer originally in the car wouldn't work. Reading the code with a snap on indicated that there was a problem with a "shift interlock solenoid" which the 525i didn't get until 1993. Replacing the computer with the new one removed the code, but still threw the car into trans program that started immediately after the engine started. I ended up solving the problem by (at the time) running a jumpercable from the trans computer (which was sitting on the floor of the car) to the sheetmetal--grounds are that important to the transmission in this situation. I've been inside of the 4l30e, so if you have any questions, you can ask me here or message me on fb, and I'll tell you every possible thing I can remember.

Good luck.

[shogun]

Good info, but there are still some people which are not registered on facebook like old man shogun ;-)

[ryan roopnarine]

Jeff, I mispoke about transmission computers. Here's my old post explaining some of the stuff I had to do to get the 93 e36 tranny working in my 92 e34

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php/41973-after-6-months-of-screwing-around-my-transmission-works!-(with-a-caveat)?p=328291&highlight=#post328291

[632 Regal]

Figured the torque converter deal, the access hole behind the exhaust is never mentioned anywhere except the Bently. Once people figure it out they fail to mention that little detail.

Read your article in regards to the trans computer, hard to believe that one year made such a huge difference. Mine is back stepping one year to the /310 and should be plug n play, we will see shortly.