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duckloads
10-24-2014, 08:57 PM
after getting my old wagon's electrical problems sorted out, I thought I would treat her to a transmission fluid and filter change. The forward gears worked fine, but it hesitated for a couple of seconds going into reverse.

NOW, the torque converter repeatedly locks and unlocks when under load such as going up a steep hill. Also, the trans not only still hesitates before engaging reverse, it slips once engaged.

I have re-checked the fluid level and it is fine. What the @#$% have I done?

632 Regal
10-24-2014, 09:07 PM
Might have loosened too much debris and clogged the new filter?

Sounds like the speed sensor on the back of the trans... Probably just coincidental?

Correct fluid?

632 Regal
10-24-2014, 09:15 PM
Re thinking this, there is a breather somewhere on top the trans. If this gets clogged it will be exactly the symptom.

shogun
10-24-2014, 09:55 PM
Is that a ZF 5HP18?

Troubleshooting BMW A5S 310Z ZF 5HP18, from the manual:
Condition.... Cause.... Remedy

Position Park position does not engage

a) Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted
b) Excessive friction in parking lock mechanism

a) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
b) Replace parking lock parts (connecting rod, pawl),refer to 24 34 006
-----------
Park position does not hold (slips)

Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted

Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
--------------------------
Engine cannot be started in N or P, or can be started in all
positions

a) Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted
b) Transmission switch faulty. Starter motor inhibit relay or power line defective

a) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
b) Replacing transmission switch, refer to 25 16 080. Replacing/repairing relay between inlet lines
---------------------
Position R:No reverse gear

a) Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted
b) Clutch B destroyed
c) Brake D destroyed In this case also no engine braking effect in position 2,1st gear
d) Brake G destroyed
e) Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"

a) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
b) Exchange transmission, refer to 24 00 046
c) Exchange transmission, refer to 24 00 046
d) Exchange transmission, refer to 24 00 046
------------------------
Hard engaging jolt P-R or N-R

a) Idling speed too high
b) Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"

a) Refer to Test Plan
-------------------
Backup lights do not light up (electrics OK)

a) Transmission switch faulty
b) Shift actuation between selector lever and transmission incorrectly
set

a) Replace transmission switch, refer to 25 16 080
b) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
-------------------
Car moves or creeps

a) Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted
b) Clutch A defective (welded solid)

a) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
--------------------------
Position D: No power transmission

a) Clutch A destroyed
b) 1st gear one-way Gear defective
c) Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted

a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
c) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
----------------
Hard shift impact N - D)(neng > 1500 rpm

a) Idling speed too high
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"

a) Refer to Inspection Manual
-----------------
No shift (warm or cold)
Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
------------------
No shift: Shift 1-2
a) Brakes C1 and 2 faulty
b) Insufficient oil supply to brakes C1 and C2

a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
---------------------
Shift 2-1
Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
----------------
Shift 2-3
a) Clutch F faulty
b) Insufficient oil supply to clutch F

a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
----------------
Shift 3-2
Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
--------------
Shift 3-4
a) Clutch E faulty
b) Insufficient oil supply to clutch E

a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-----------------
No braking effect:Shift 4-3
a) Brake band C2 faulty; in this case shift 1-2 not OK
b) Insufficient oil supply to brake C2

a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
------------------
No shift:Shift 4-5>>>Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
----------------
No shift:Shift 5-4>>>Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
----------------------
No shift:Shift 5-4
Clutch A faulty, in this case no 1st ... 4th gear
Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
---------------
Shift from full load to kickdown too long
a) Plates broken
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"

a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-----------------
Engine spins in shift 2-1
a) Poor friction torque at plates
b) 1st gear one-way Gear not OK
a)b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
---------------
Engine spins in shift 2-3/3-2
a) Poor friction torque at plates
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"

a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-----------------------
Engine spins in shift 4-3
a) Poor friction torque at plates
b) 3rd gear one-way Gear not OK
a)b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-----------------
Engine spins in shift 4-5/5-4
a) Poor friction torque at plates
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-------------------
No engine braking effect, no manual downshift 5-4
a) Clutch A damaged
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-------------
No engine braking effect, no manual downshift 4-3/3-2
a) Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-------------------
No 1st gear, no braking action
a) Brake D faulty
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Replace converter, refer to 24 40 006
------------------
No converter lockup clutch
a) Torque converter faulty
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Replace converter, refer to 24 40 006
--------------
Engine dies when moving off in Drive (converter lockup clutch
always engaged)
a) Torque converter faulty
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Replace converter, refer to 24 40 006
-------------------
No positive engagement in forward or reverse
a) Driver pressed off impeller
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-------------------
Noise: Noise in all positions
a) ATF level too low
b) Valve body leaks
c) Oil strainer dirty
d) Round seal on oil filter missing/faulty

a) Correct ATF level, refer to 24 00 026
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
c) Replace oil strainer, refer to 24 31 156
d) Replace round seal, refer to 24 31 156
----------------
Leaks Oil dripping from converter bell housing
a) Round seal on oil pump body leaks
b) Round seal on pump body leaks
c) Radial oil seal for converter leaks

a) Replace round seal, refer to 24 31 020
b) Replace round seal, refer to 24 31 020
c) Replace radial oil seal, refer to 24 31 020
---------------
Leak between transmission case and oil sump
a) Mounting bolts loose
b) Gasket faulty

a) Tighten bolts. For tightening torque, refer to Technical Data
b) Replace gasket, refer to 24 11 008
---------------
Leaks Output leaks
a) Radial oil seal for output flange leaks
b) O-ring for transmission extension leaks

a) Replace radial oil seal, refer to 24 12 016
b) Replace O-ring, refer to 24 12 016
-------------
Manual shift valve shaft leaks
Radial oil seal faulty
Replace radial oil seal, refer to 24 12 106
---------------
Transmission plug leaks
a) Plugs loose
b) Seals faulty
a) Tighten plugs For tightening torque, refer to Technical Data
b) Replace seals
------------------
Oil cooler pipes leak
a) Oil cooler pipes loose
b) O-rings faulty

a) Tighten oil cooler pipes. For tightening torque, refer to Technical Data
b) Replace O-rings
-------------------
Position R: No power transmission in reverse
a) Signal wire to solenoid 3 grounded
b) Valve piston for reverse gear lock not in parked position

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
-------------------
Hard engaging jolt in position R
a) Damper of brake D malfunctions
b) Modulation pressure too high
c) Wire to pressure regulator faulty
d) Pressure regulator faulty

a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
c) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
d) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
------------------
Position D:No power transmission forwards
a) Damper A blocked
b) Signal wire to solenoid 5 grounded

a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
----------------
Hard engaging jolt in position D
a) Damper of clutch A malfunctions
b) Wire to pressure regulator faulty
c) Pressure regulator faulty
d) Modulation valve malfunctions

a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
c) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
--------------------
Hard shift jolts in general
a) Modulation valve malfunctions
b) Wire to pressure regulator faulty
c) Pressure regulator faulty

a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 34 501
c) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
------------------
Position D:No shift 1-2
a) Wire to output speed sensor faulty
b) Output speed sensor faulty
c) Signal wire to solenoid 1 grounded
d) Shift valve 1 seized in parked position
e) Damper C2 or clutch valve C1 seized
f) Shift valve 3 seized in parked position

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace speed sensor,refer to 24 34 871
c) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
e) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
f) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
---------------------
No shift 2-1
a) Signal or positive wire to solenoid 1 faulty
b) Solenoid 1 faulty
c) Shift valve seized in pushed position

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 1, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
----------------
No shift 2-3
a) Signal wire to solenoid 2 faulty
b) Solenoid 2 faulty
c) Shift valve 2 seized in pushed position
d) Pulling valve 2-3 seized in parked position

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 2, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
--------------------
No shift 3-2
a) Signal or positive wire to solenoid 2 faulty
b) Shift valve seized in parked position
c) Pulling valve 2-3 seized in pushed position

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
-------------------
Position D:No shift 3-4
a) Signal wire to solenoid 3 grounded
b) Solenoid 3 faulty
c) Shift valve seized in pushed position
d) Damper E seized

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 3, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
--------------------
No shift 4-3
a) Signal or positive lead to SV 1 defective
b) Shift valve 4 seized in parked position
c) Damper C2 blocked

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
-------------------
No shift 5-4
a) Signal wire to solenoid 1 grounded
b) Solenoid 1 faulty
c) Shift valve 4 seized in pushed position

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 1, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
----------------------
Car moves off in 2nd gear engaged
a) Signal or positive wire to solenoid 1 faulty, in this case no 5th gear
b) Shift valve 1 seized in parked position

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
--------------------
Car moves off in 3rd gear engaged
a) Signal or positive wire to solenoids 1 and 2 faulty
b) Shift valves 1 and 2 seized in parked position

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
----------------
Car moves off in 4th gear engaged
a) General positive wire faulty (transmission without current)
b) Shift valves 1, 2 and 3 seized in parked position

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
---------------
Shift transitions in zero load positions, full load shifts too hard

a) Modulation valve function not O.K.
b) Wire to pressure regulator faulty
c) Pressure regulator faulty
d) Damper malfunctions

a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
c) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
---------------------
Shift transitions of full load and kickdown shifts too long

a) Pressure reducing valve 1 or 2 not O.K.
b) Modulation valve function not O.K.
c) Pressure regulator faulty

a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
c) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
------------------------------
Engine dies from shift 2-3/3-2 (overlapped control)

a) Signal or positive lead to SV 4 defective
b) Solenoid 4 faulty
c) Pull/push valve 1 moves too hard
d) Aperture for damper G clogged
e) Damper F moves too hard
f) Pull valve 2-3/3-2 moves too hard


a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 4, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
e) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
f) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
------------------------
Engine dies from shift 4-5/5-4 (overlapped control)

a) Signal or positive lead to SV 5 defective
b) Solenoid 5 faulty
c) Pull/push valve 2 moves too hard
d) Damper C2 malfunctions
e) Pull valve 4-5/5-4 moves too hard
f) Damper A moves too hard

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 5, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
e) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
f) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
---------------------
Converter lockup clutch - Shift transitions too hard
Converter clutch function impaired
Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
------------------
No converter lockup clutch

a) Signal or positive wire to solenoid 6 faulty
b) Solenoid 6 faulty

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 6, refer to 24 34 853
--------------------
Engine dies when stopping car in drive position (converter lockup
clutch always engaged)

a) Signal wire to solenoid 6 grounded
b) Converter lockup clutch valve seized in pushed position
c) Solenoid 6 faulty

a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
c) Replace solenoid 6, refer to 24 34 853
----------------
Shift speed and shift quality generally not O.K.

Temperature sensor not O.K.

Replace wiring harness,refer to 24 35 501
-----------------

Troubleshooting peripherals

Idling speed control (throttle valve electronic engine power
control)
Wrong shift points, oscillating shifts

a) Engine idling speed too high or too low
b) Idling speed control valve faulty

a) Refer to Test Plan
b) Replace idle speed control valve, refer to 13 41 500
--------------------
Kickdown switch
No kickdown shifts, only partial load/full load shifts

a) Wire harness faulty
b) Kickdown switch faulty
c) Kickdown switch maladjusted

a) Repair wire harness
b) Replace kickdown switch, refer to 35 41 480
c) Check adjustment, refer to 35 41 480
-----------------
Program switch: No S program or only S program

a) Signal wire to program switch faulty
b) Program switch faulty

a) Repair wire harness
b) Replace program switch, refer to 61 31 265
---------------------
No W program or only W program

a) Signal wire to program switch faulty
b) Program switch faulty

a) Repair wire harness
b) Replace program switch,refer to 61 31 265
----------------
Position switch (selector lever):No shifts Car remains in shifted gear

a) No positive supply/fuse faulty
b) Signal wire faulty
c) Switch faulty

a) Replace fuse
b) Repair wire harness
c) Replace switch, refer to 25 16 080
---------------------------------------------------------
that is from the manual, instead of replace we DIYer repair. So I would remove the valve body and clean it completely, check the balls or replace these, test the solenoid, check speed sensor in the trans.

Details on my website with solenoid testing, Specifications for MV solenoids: Values @ 20° C temperature, output/input speed sensor ohm etc
see reference data>>gear box
see fixes>>gear box

http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html
NOTE: the sub-menus are not complete. Use the section menus!!

http://twrite.org/shogunnew/data/gearbox.html

shogun
10-24-2014, 10:06 PM
More
[PDF]Technical Service Information
www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Data/ZF%20Tech%20Guide.pdf

PDF Electronic Transmission Control Introduction
www.ge39.com/files/electran1%2B2.pdf

http://images.1233.tw/zf-transmission-valve-body/

duckloads
10-25-2014, 07:26 AM
Nope it's the GM 4L30E trans

whiskychaser
10-25-2014, 08:57 AM
Sounds like a fault with the torque converter lockup solenoid. If it is applying when it shouldn't, it will block you from selecting reverse.

Rustam
10-25-2014, 07:14 PM
after getting my old wagon's electrical problems sorted out, I thought I would treat her to a transmission fluid and filter change. The forward gears worked fine, but it hesitated for a couple of seconds going into reverse.

NOW, the torque converter repeatedly locks and unlocks when under load such as going up a steep hill. Also, the trans not only still hesitates before engaging reverse, it slips once engaged.

I have re-checked the fluid level and it is fine. What the @#$% have I done?

Picking up at Jeff's point:

(1)When the fluid is changed, some debris is loosened within the transmission. A dramatic example to this is clogging a valve after the fluid change, which happened to my transmission a long time ago. A month after the change of fluid I had to buy a new transmission.
(2)It is not enough to just dump the fluid from the pan, given the fact that it is still left in the torque converter. This is why the fluid should be changed professionally, including flush to have debris out.
(3)The hesitation was available at the reverse, now the transmission slips. Everything works at the pressure of the transmission fluid, the valves move to provide fluid flow (pressure) to the clutch(es) and torque converter for engagement.

If the reverse was hesitating it stands to reason that debris was on the way for the responsible valving to move, precluding immediate flow of transmission fluid. (Solenoid pulls the valve, the valve moves slowly because of obstruction, fluid experiences a slow opening at the valve, the pressure buildup is not immediate = "hesitation"). Now the fluid has been partially dumped and new fluid brought in. The debris must have: (1)loosened and (2)circulated within the transmission affecting (a)other valves and (b)torque converter.

Do not force the transmission. Replace the fluid once again, remembering that some old fluid had been left in it anyway and needs to be dumped still, to minimize the debris that has been loosened.
Change the filter, again.
Observe improvement, repeat the cycle for safety. You're meaning to flush the transmission of debris then fluid in order of priority.
Use correct fluid.

Consider a Transmission Flush if any is available on the market. Also, I have had a very satisfactory experience with Lucas Oil Products.

duckloads
10-25-2014, 07:29 PM
Thank you for your thoughts. A second fluid and filter change is in order. Also, with the front, smaller pan off, I'll replace the TCC solenoid. I'm not sure what solenoid controls reverse. It might not hurt to pull the others out and clean them. looking at photos, it looks like the solenoids have fine screen filters.

Rustam
10-25-2014, 07:35 PM
Thank you for your thoughts. A second fluid and filter change is in order. Also, with the front, smaller pan off, I'll replace the TCC solenoid. I'm not sure what solenoid controls reverse. It might not hurt to pull the others out and clean them. looking at photos, it looks like the solenoids have fine screen filters.

It may simply not be about the TCC solenoid. The computer may be trying to reengage the TCC sensing absence of engagement due to low pressure. Best to do one thing at a time.

whiskychaser
10-26-2014, 04:59 AM
It may simply not be about the TCC solenoid. The computer may be trying to reengage the TCC sensing absence of engagement due to low pressure. Best to do one thing at a time.
I totally agree with cleaning the VB, screens etc - it worked fine before the ATF change so should be fine now. I'd expect you to get converter lockup when cruising, not when going up a steep hill

Rustam
10-27-2014, 12:51 PM
The torque converter is meant to lock up any time a significant difference in input and output rpm is present. Such is the case under load.

632 Regal
10-27-2014, 01:35 PM
The torque converter is meant to lock up any time a significant difference in input and output rpm is present. Such is the case under load.

Under load the lockup will only hold until engine vacuum drops and needs more trans ratio. Instead of a downshift the lockup shuts off for more rpm's

If the trans is slipping which it very well can be the fluid will smell burned. Time for a replacement

How many miles on it?

632 Regal
10-27-2014, 01:48 PM
Thank you for your thoughts. A second fluid and filter change is in order. Also, with the front, smaller pan off, I'll replace the TCC solenoid. I'm not sure what solenoid controls reverse. It might not hurt to pull the others out and clean them. looking at photos, it looks like the solenoids have fine screen filters.

How did you check the fluid level?

whiskychaser
10-27-2014, 03:38 PM
The torque converter is meant to lock up any time a significant difference in input and output rpm is present. Such is the case under load.
I think you have that upside down. If that were true, you would stall every time you took off from traffic lights

duckloads
10-27-2014, 03:59 PM
Some good news........I drained and re-filled the trans. it took about 3-1/2 to 4 quarts. The TC locking and unlocking while going uphill has STOPPED. On level ground, the TC seems to lock and unlock as normal. it locks-up and then unlocks with moderate throttle input. All forward gears are accounted for.

Reverse works very well on level ground, but there is still a delay for engagement. I get a juddering trying to back up a hill (my driveway). For now, I'm going to blame that on the transmission/driveshaft flex disc being roached (technical term for quite cracked). and possibly the trans mounts. I have all the parts, just need some more time.

I'm filling the auto trans per the manual. It only takes a few min's running the engine to reach the minimum temperature range with the ambient temp nearly 80 deg F. The fluid has to be pumped in quickly.

Rustam
10-27-2014, 05:21 PM
Some good news........I drained and re-filled the trans. it took about 3-1/2 to 4 quarts. The TC locking and unlocking while going uphill has STOPPED. On level ground, the TC seems to lock and unlock as normal. it locks-up and then unlocks with moderate throttle input. All forward gears are accounted for.

Reverse works very well on level ground, but there is still a delay for engagement. I get a juddering trying to back up a hill (my driveway). For now, I'm going to blame that on the transmission/driveshaft flex disc being roached (technical term for quite cracked). and possibly the trans mounts. I have all the parts, just need some more time.

I'm filling the auto trans per the manual. It only takes a few min's running the engine to reach the minimum temperature range with the ambient temp nearly 80 deg F. The fluid has to be pumped in quickly.

Good stuff. Please keep us updated.

632 Regal
10-30-2014, 05:52 PM
Some good news........I drained and re-filled the trans. it took about 3-1/2 to 4 quarts. The TC locking and unlocking while going uphill has STOPPED. On level ground, the TC seems to lock and unlock as normal. it locks-up and then unlocks with moderate throttle input. All forward gears are accounted for.

Reverse works very well on level ground, but there is still a delay for engagement. I get a juddering trying to back up a hill (my driveway). For now, I'm going to blame that on the transmission/driveshaft flex disc being roached (technical term for quite cracked). and possibly the trans mounts. I have all the parts, just need some more time.

I'm filling the auto trans per the manual. It only takes a few min's running the engine to reach the minimum temperature range with the ambient temp nearly 80 deg F. The fluid has to be pumped in quickly.

You also have to go through each gear while it's running so you get a true level reading. We ended up adding around 7 quarts because we drained the converter. Fill, start, go through gears, shut off, fill repeat til we were close then left it running for the top off.

Bill R.
10-31-2014, 02:22 PM
Hi Jeff,

I do essentially the same thing, put it on the lift, raise it up and if i have the front pan off i add fluid to it before putting it on,thats the small pan that the solenoids are in. Then i fill the tranmission to the fill plug cold and not running, then lower the car and start it up, run through each gear with my foot on then brake then leaving it in park and running, raise the car back up and by then the fluid is up to the correct temp, pump more fluid in until it comes out the fill hole and put the plug in. this is assuming an ambient temp of at least 75f starting out. If i'm doing it on jackstands, i put it on 4 jackstands and then put a level on the bottom of the pan, level the car with the jackstands, then do the same procedure as on the lift.

duckloads
12-26-2014, 07:18 PM
Well, reverse is about gone...I haven't had much time lately to work on the car (or drive it), but reverse is getting worse. I even changed the fluid and filter again. Reverse pulls OK on flat ground, but not on any hill.

CRAP!!!

632 Regal
12-27-2014, 02:39 PM
Well, reverse is about gone...I haven't had much time lately to work on the car (or drive it), but reverse is getting worse. I even changed the fluid and filter again. Reverse pulls OK on flat ground, but not on any hill.

CRAP!!!

Time for a replacement trans. Make sure to get the same part number or you might have issues like we do on the E36.

duckloads
12-30-2014, 03:59 PM
Anyone know where to get a remanufactured transmission. A4s-310r

632 Regal
12-30-2014, 08:39 PM
Why not go for a good used one for a couple hundred bux? I have a core 270r if you need it. Reman is over rated, good used from a bad engine or accident car is okay.

Where you at?

duckloads
12-30-2014, 08:58 PM
In Huntsville, Al, but in the process of relocating to Nicholasville, ky

I just don't know if I can trust a used auto trans not knowing the history. I found one in California for $900. He claims 60k miles.

Javier
12-30-2014, 10:19 PM
Is the fluid showing signs of damage. If not, wouldn't you consider to do a valve body overhaul? May be you just have a faulty check. When I lost reverse in my 4hp22, the mechanic told me a tiny plastic ball was the culprit (Remember Winfred did not agree on that). I did drive the car in that condition extensively (causing more damage), so he replaced the whole Master kit?

Concur that if you find a cheap used one from a crashed low millage car, I'd go for it. After the repair, mine fail a couple years after, and still now I fear it will drop me any time.

Javier

632 Regal
12-31-2014, 08:25 AM
In Huntsville, Al, but in the process of relocating to Nicholasville, ky

I just don't know if I can trust a used auto trans not knowing the history. I found one in California for $900. He claims 60k miles.

900 seems to be way too much for a used trans. Keep searching, craigslist sometimes gets lucky.

632 Regal
12-31-2014, 05:11 PM
In Huntsville, Al, but in the process of relocating to Nicholasville, ky

I just don't know if I can trust a used auto trans not knowing the history. I found one in California for $900. He claims 60k miles.

Check http://www.car-part.com there are always a ton of search results, might not be real close but it might help. Every now and then people scrap bmws close to me. Sometimes you can get a whole car for parts well under a grand.