5HP18 Valve Body rebuild question

[Frank87]

Car: 530iA Sedan Euro
Transmission: ZF5HP18 "088"

I am rebuilding a spare "088" 5HP18 transmission. I already did all the work on the driveline. I plan to rebuild the valve body next week. I will then slot the valve body into my current transmission (which runs excellent by the way) to ensure I did not screw up on the valve body so that, when installing the complete transmission + valve body, I know that when a problem arises, it's in the driveline. I have 2 problems:

Problem 1: I do not know the diameter of the one way check ball.
There is a one way check valve used when the manual "2" position is slected with the lever. I have ordered the part from ZF but I only get the plant pot, spring and cap. No ball. I also want to start using an aluminum ball but I do not know the diameter. I have looked in various forums and came across the same question asked by Shogun. A reply was that the ball measured about 4.56mm but afaik that was a ball from a used valve body so it may already have worn down to 4.56.

Problem 2: I do not know how to calibrate the pressure regulator correctly.
The 5HP18 repair manual states that the pressure regulator needs to be adjusted after any work done to the valve body or internals of the transmission. The repair manual does not say what or how to do this. I have not touched the pressure regulator yet. The pressure regulator is located in the solenoid block. It has a large torx screw on it. Any info on how to calibrate this piece is welcome.

Any help or advice would be great. I have a large amount of photo's to share on how to strip the driveline. I will upload these somewhere on this forum.

8236

8237

[shogun]

Hi Frank, do not touch the pressure regulator, just leave it as it is set by the factory. My wrenching buddy who is very experienced with trans work, also very seldom touches the large torx screw. Once we made some tests with a 4HP24 because even after full overhaul of the valve body, replacement of the filter and even trans system flushing the gear change still showed a bit of shock changes. Later we found out that this is caused by the different ATF we use, that was a Japanese ATF and that is apparently a bit harder than the OEM fluid.
To make changes, we had to take the oil pan off 3 times ! So first time we adjusted a bit on the torx screw too much, so back on the lift, ATF out, new adjustment, test drive and again the same procedure till all were happy with the shifting.
Baiscally, if you turn the torx just a quarter turn, that already makes a large difference.

one way check ball: this info I got from Whiskeychaser, he measured that, wait till he chimes in.
ATSG tells us:
BMW ZF-5HP-18, "BIND-UP" WITH SELECTOR IN MANUAL "2" POSITION, 1st GEAR
COMPLAINT:
Before or after overhaul, vehicles equipped with ZF-5HP-18, may exhibit a "Bind-Up" condition in the Manual "2" position, 1st gear.

Cause: The cause may be, the plastic "D" Clutch One-way Check Valve assembly located in the Lower Rear valve body, shown in Figure 2, may be broken allowing the "B" Clutch (Reverse Input Clutch) to be on while the "D" Clutch (Low/Reverse Clutch) is on in 1st gear.

Correction:
Before or after overhaul, vehicles equipped with ZF-5HP-18, may exhibit a "Bind-Up" condition in the Manual "2" position, 1st gear. The cause may be, the plastic "D" Clutch One-way Check Valve assembly located in the Lower Rear valve body, shown in Figure 2, may be broken allowing the "B" Clutch (Reverse Input Clutch) to be on while the "D" Clutch (Low/Reverse Clutch) is on in 1st gear. Replace the "D" Clutch One-way Check Valve assembly , as shown in Figure 1, with a new assembly from ZF, or a new "Aluminum" check valve assembly offered by: Mario Aristides. Phone (305) 666-3544 or Fax (305) 666-8238.

http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/DTC.BMW/01-34.pdf

[Frank87]

Thanks for your speedy reply. I have read the ATSG manual. That is what got me to replace that check valve. Sadly, it also does not offer me a diameter.

I will leave that pressure regulator alone.

[shogun]

ZF 1043 226 028 VALVE, ZF 1043 226 028 VENTIL looks like you can order it from Germany http://en.technikexpert.net/zf-1043-226-028-valve.html
5HP18 Valve Body – Valve Housing Groups, position item # 51.200, part number 1043 226 028, Valve 1 piece, used in Stuecklistennummer 1056 000 081/087/088

[Frank87]

I have ordered that part but it comes WITHOUT a ball. It just gives me the plant pot, spring and cap.

[whiskychaser]

I have ordered that part but it comes WITHOUT a ball. It just gives me the plant pot, spring and cap.
Hi Frank
Where are you and where did you order the part from? No joy with the contact in Shogun's post? If you are in the US you could try Eriksson Industries. Pretty sure somebody on a Russian website had about 100 of them so probably has one or two to spare:-) That is assuming online translation worked. Will try to find the link if you still need it
You are in a Catch 22 situation with the pressure regulator. If it is worn, it can potentially blow your D/G clutch. But if you take it apart to inspect it, you screw up the settings. You are probably best leaving it alone as Shogun says. I don't believe you can bench test it at home but you should be able to test the line pressure at the tappings when it is installed

[Frank87]

I will have to think this through then. Do I need any unique tools for pressure testing? I can probably get common gauges and stuff.

When I adjust that valve body, turning that screw clockwise will increase or decrease pressure? And what exactly are the results of modifying the pressure + or -?

[whiskychaser]

The pressure regulator isn't a simple on/off device - the TCM tells it how far to open/close depending on operating conditions. If you want to do it at the tappings, details will be in Bentleys. The consequences of getting it wrong? Too much and you could blow the clutch drum. (Its not the D/G as I mentioned above - that's on a 5HP18 - it will be the F but it goes for the same reason) Too little and there is not enough to apply the clutches. BTW, they did come out with a modified pressure relief valve for the 5HP30. It has a larger shoulder than the original and may be worth a look.

[Frank87]

I am doing a 5HP18. I have removed all parts of the solenoid block to be able to thoroughly clean everything. I have not touched the large Torx nut. I reinstalled everything exactly the way it came out.

Sadly, the internet does not offer any guide on the pressure system at all. I can consult the Bentley manual to test pressure but I would still not know how to properly adjust it.

8246

[whiskychaser]

I am doing a 5HP18. I have removed all parts of the solenoid block to be able to thoroughly clean everything. I have not touched the large Torx nut. I reinstalled everything exactly the way it came out.

Sadly, the internet does not offer any guide on the pressure system at all. I can consult the Bentley manual to test pressure but I would still not know how to properly adjust it.

8246
Unfortunately, that is the case. Unless you have the odd $31k to spare and want to buy one of these :-) :
http://europeantransmissionscom.x-shops.com/shop/home.php?cat=628

In practise, you are only going to be able to find out what the line pressures are. Are you installing the valve body kit?

[Frank87]

The 5HP18 Valve Body Kit is no longer available. I have spent over 5 evening hours to get any kind of supplier to check his stock. 0... Even ZF no longer delivers (here in Europe). I have:
- Ordered all traction springs & 1-2-3-4-5 springs
- Ordered all orifices 10x
- Ordered 4 6mm balls (just to be sure, need only 2)
- Ordered the one way check valve (but came without a ball)
- Ordered the VB gasket

So basically, I took the critical parts from the list and ordered those myself. My spare trans already had the updated selector. This does not need replacing.

This is what I will do for now:
- Finish the internals of the spare 088 I am rebuilding. This completes my hardpart rebuild
- Install the rebuilt 088 transmission (w/o valve body)
- Take the valve body from the trans I remove (runs ok) and put it under the rebuilt one
- Drive and test. If it runs great (or almost great) I at least know I did not screw up on the internals.

A good friend of mine runs the garage where I do my tires and yearly certification. A good friend of his runs a very professional auto trans shop. They do regular rebuilds but also custom work on transmission internals & valve bodies and all kinds of other customized work with CNC equipment. They have a test machine for valve bodies. After I get a 1 way check valve WITH ball, I will rebuild the valve body and let them test / adjust it according to ZF spec or their own knowledge.

I will keep you guys posted on this. Tomorrow I'll call ZF and order a new one way check valve. If it comes with a ball, I'll measure it and post it.

[Frank87]

As posted before, ordred a new 1 way check valve. Got the correct combination this time BUT already combined. I could not take it apart to measure it. Sorry guys.

- Installed the 1 way check valve and assembled the valve body.
- Drained ATF, removed pan, removed filter, removed stock valve body
- Swapped solenoid block from old to overhauled valve body to ensure I would get the pressures right
- Installed the overhauled valve body
- Installed a new filter & pan gasket
- Filled the transmission untill it overflowed
- Start engine, kept it in idle and switched lever through position while a comrade kept adding oil
- Quit filling when filler started to overflow while shifting positions. Total oil added: about 6 - 7 liters

Here is the strange part. Shift quality was fine, it is now near excellent but a jerk that I had from 2->1 has become more noticeable. I consider "almost excellent" to be between "very good" and "factory new".

In sum:
1->2 = almost excellent
2->3 = almost excellent
3->4 = almost excellent
4->5 = almost excellent
5->O = almost excellent

5->4 = almost excellent
4->3 = almost excellent
3->2 = almost excellent
2->1 = acceptable but with a jerk

P <-> R & R<->N & N<->D = No jerk, no noise & instant action. I consider it to be excellent

So, we have a 2->1 jerk / shock. On the previous stock (12/1993) valve body, that 2->1 jerk was also there but much less noticeable. Although it jerks, the shift action is instant. No slippage, no noises.. Instant 2->1 gear change but with a jerk.

What I would like to know:
- What springs and pistons are used for 2->1 action?
- What other causes are there for a 2->1 jerk?

Thanks in advance.

[whiskychaser]

I'd have a look at solenoid 1 and shift valve 1. If they were not working or sticking, you wouldn't get first gear. So I think that's the first place to start. Do the engine revs increase or does it just go in with a bump?

[632 Regal]

I'd have a look at solenoid 1 and shift valve 1. If they were not working or sticking, you wouldn't get first gear. So I think that's the first place to start. Do the engine revs increase or does it just go in with a bump?

When I got the EAT chip my 5HP18 would rev neutral between shifting 2nd and 3rd. Would slam so hard the Trans would have blown if I didn't swap it right out. This was on mild acceleration only, full throttle shift was fine.

The stock engine chips cut the engine momentarily between shifts so they are smooth. Doubt it is your problem but throwing it out here anyways.

[whiskychaser]

When I got the EAT chip my 5HP18 would rev neutral between shifting 2nd and 3rd. Would slam so hard the Trans would have blown if I didn't swap it right out. This was on mild acceleration only, full throttle shift was fine.

The stock engine chips cut the engine momentarily between shifts so they are smooth. Doubt it is your problem but throwing it out here anyways.

Some of the 5HP18s had a fault with 2-3 shift 'flare'. Mine did. You can solve the problem with the '2-3 flare correction kit' 5HP18.SK01. It is just two new springs you replace in the valve body. But it works

[Frank87]

@Regal:
I think your 2-3 shift problem had more to do with slammed teeth on the F drum and a bad F drum glide bearing. Because:
- From 2-3 the G clutch disengages
- From 2-3 the F clutch engages
The friction plates IN the G drum that lock into the F drum will, over time, slam the teeth on the F drum meaning it will take a little longer before F engages / disengages
The bad F drum glide bearing inside the F drum will cause the F piston to move in and out at a slower rate

This is a typical early 5HP18 fault. You will not nessecarily notice slippage or jerks as the engine indeed stops revving during shift moments. However, when the engine does rev, it will put torque on the G friction plates who will put that torque on the damaged F drum. The result is some slippage since those plates do not instantly grab-hold or release. I have opened up multiple "18" boxes and all show slammed teeth on drum F from plates belonging to drum G.

Edit:
I do not exactly know what that correction kit does but I guess it modifies the fluid pressure to G and F. Have never had to use that kit though.

@whiskeychaser:
No kind of rev changes, no kind of slippage. It is an instant 2-1 downshift but with a bump. I will check all the shift valves. Thanks for the tip. Solenoids are 100%. Ohm resistance checks out and no gunk in the solenoids or the small pit behind them.


I have now:
- Overhauled the valve body I pulled from my car last week (the one originally mounted in 1993)
- Swapped the 2-1 jerk body with this valve body
- Refilled tranny.
Result: no jerk, good shifting.

I also replaced many springs in the valve body that I mounted last week (the one with the 2-1 jerk). Shift valves, 12345 springs and all kinds of other small springs. Although I have checked every part number and location 100x, I may have done something wrong. I will open up the valve body and see if all has been mounted as it should have been. I DO have to note that replacing those springs gave me:
- A bit more responsiveness to my throttle management from the transmission
- Slightly quicker shifts: rrrrRRRRR - rrrrrrrrr instead of rrrrrRRRRRR - - rrrrrrrrrrr
- All round slightly better feel when upshifting.

I guess that new springs ensure that all the pistons will almost instantly go back to their position when fluid pressure is lost. Since the springs in the valve body mounted today are original 1993.. they probably lost some of their force meaning the valve body functions a few %'s less effective.

In any case, I will look over the entire piston / spring layout again. Also important to check is if I have put all the metal clips correctly on the various pistons (although I am sure I have).


For those of you who would like to know what I have done with the valve body I mounted today, check my YouTube DIY:

Part 1:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbmprgrHvkU

I added a reference to whiskeychaser and shogun for the info on the pressure regulator.


To be continued. Thanks for the help.

[whiskychaser]

The springs in the SK01 kit replace springs 0732042581 and 0732042115 (numbers for the 088 valve body). They are the 2-3 traction valve and F brake control valve springs. If you have flare from 2-3, the engine revs increase but your speed doesn't. The effect is similar to driving a manual with a clutch which is slipping slightly on hills

Great news that the box seems to be working fine. Of course you will want to find out why the problem remains on your 'spare' valve body. While you can't really bench test the gearbox, you could test the solenoids for operation. I'd also be taking a look at traction/shift valves 1056327028 and 1056327029. I don't imagine you want to take parts from a working gearbox so I may be able to help if you don't have spares for testing.

[Frank87]

If I could get my hands on all the springs brand new, I'd slot them all in. Just to be sure.

Problem is that ZF over here delivers 80% of the springs x10 when ordering. Basically, you are looking at a valve body kit of over 600 euro's. Thats a little steep.

I'll be re-opening that spare valve body. The 20% of the springs I could order per piece, have all been slotted into that valve body. I'd like a fully rebuilt valve body in my almost-completely-overhauled spare transmission.

[whiskychaser]

Automatic Choice in the UK are still showing the full valve body kit (5HP18.VBK) in their catalogue so it may be worth contacting them. I found they are pretty good at responding on the phone but a little slow if you use email. Link is below:
https://www.automaticchoice.com/en/catalogue

[Frank87]

I have ordered my overhaul parts from them. Even they said the vbk is no longer available.

I have used: http://eshop.original-teile.de/index.php?

To order valve body parts piece by piece. All original ZF.

[whiskychaser]

I have ordered my overhaul parts from them. Even they said the vbk is no longer available.

I have used: http://eshop.original-teile.de/index.php?

To order valve body parts piece by piece. All original ZF.

I have not bought one for a while. You would think they would remove it from the catalogue.

[632 Regal]

@Regal:
I think your 2-3 shift problem had more to do with slammed teeth on the F drum and a bad F drum glide bearing. Because:
- From 2-3 the G clutch disengages
- From 2-3 the F clutch engages
The friction plates IN the G drum that lock into the F drum will, over time, slam the teeth on the F drum meaning it will take a little longer before F engages / disengages
The bad F drum glide bearing inside the F drum will cause the F piston to move in and out at a slower rate

This is a typical early 5HP18 fault. You will not nessecarily notice slippage or jerks as the engine indeed stops revving during shift moments. However, when the engine does rev, it will put torque on the G friction plates who will put that torque on the damaged F drum. The result is some slippage since those plates do not instantly grab-hold or release. I have opened up multiple "18" boxes and all show slammed teeth on drum F from plates belonging to drum G.



Mine was the 94 530, and the EAT chip was the problem. After changing it out I went another 110K miles before I sold it with no trans issues.

[Frank87]

Update:

Started clean with a completely overhauled transmission.

When using a valve body in which I only worked on the main channel plate (cleaning + replacement of balls and orifices) the transmission shifts like new except for the 1->2 shift.

When using a valve body in which I worked on the main channel plate AND where I have also replaced ALL springs with OEM ZF new ones, the transmission shifts like new except my 2->1 downshift gives me a slight jerk as described in this topic.

This means I am dealing with a valve body related issue. The valve body I talked about previously in this topic is a different valve body. I have 3 valve bodies:
1: Valve body of which the main channel plate has been done, gives me a not-so-smooth 1->2 shift, solenoids show proper ohm resistance
2: Valve body of which the main channel plate and most springs have been done, gives me a 2->1 jerk, solenoids show proper ohm resistance
3: Valve body of which the main channel plate and ALL springs have been done, gives me a 2->1 jerk, solenoids show proper ohm resistance

Valve body 2 and 3 are definately the better valve bodies for all other shift points when compared to valve body 1.

The 2>1 does NOT jerk if:
- The car is in S mode
- The car upshifts to 2 gear but never goes higher than 2. So 1->2 and then 2->1.

Which means the jerk is there if:
- The car is in D mode and has shifted to 3 or higher

The jerk is more apparant the more braking power you apply. An emergency stop from 50 to 0 gives a clearly noticeable jerk. Rolling the car from 30 to 0 gives a less noticeable jerk (but still there)

This 2->1 thing is the final piece of the puzzle!

[632 Regal]

Did you try disconnecting the brake light switch yet? Could be some issue with the check control unit that enables engine braking while slowing down however it shouldn't have anything to do with the 1-2 upshift.

[Frank87]

It must be valve body related. Old sloppy valve body gives me a good 2-1 downshift. Completely overhauled valve body gives me a bad 2-1 downshift.

[632 Regal]

It must be valve body related. Old sloppy valve body gives me a good 2-1 downshift. Completely overhauled valve body gives me a bad 2-1 downshift.

Which leads me to question other partially related items.

[shogun]

Which paper gasket did you use between the valve body plates and which one was originally installed? Did you check the new one by cross checking it with the old one coming out of the valve body? identical holes and channels? Usually I lay one over the other to compare.
There are 2 different ones. According to my expert info from a ZF repair shop there are
gasket 1056 327 100 5HP18 old version
gasket 1056 327 110 5HP18 new version

I bought both of them as I do that more often on other cars and according to this expert, the new gasket can replace an old gasket (originally installed) but a old gasket version cannot be installed in a valve body originally equipped with a new version.

Same is with the 5HP30
paper gasket 1055 327 093 5HP30 old Version
paper gasket 1055 327 102 5HP30 new Version

[Frank87]

I used the newer gasket. I ordered 5 of both part numbers "just in case" as they dont cost anything.

The older gasket has 1 big hole where the filterneck connects with the valve body.
The newer gasket has 1 big hole where the filterneck connects with the valve body and a small rectangle shaped hole right next to it.

I have used that newer style gasket with 2 big holes more often in the past without issues.

[Frank87]

For those of you who are interested in the outcome, I had 2 of my 3 valve bodies measured by a specialist who has 3D equipment. The 2 valve bodies who shift excellent but have a 2-1 jerk both suffer from bore wear in the exact same housing. Bore wear leads to too little or too much pressure causing bad shifting. He said there are generally 3 options:
- Fabricate the exact same piston but oversized from a block of anodized metal to compensate bore wear
- Buy new housings and fit the old pistons and springs (pistons were fine)
- Buy a used valve body which measures correct pressures in every mode on his test bench

Option 1 would cost $$$ due to the price of the anodized material and the engineering work in measuring the old pistons, estimating the increase in bore and refining the raw material

Option 2 would cost $$$ due to single housings for valve bodies being expensive. ZF prefers to sell entire valve bodies and take back your old used one

Option 3 was a cheap and easy option as he had access to all kinds of vendors we individuals don't. He came up with the exact same used valve body from a 088 transmission, measured it, slotted in the improved selector piston and sold it to me as the solution.

I fit this valve body and after a thorough reset of the entire car (DME, AGS etc.), the transmission started shifting better and better.

The box is now excellent and the 2-1 jerk was explained by bore wear in valve housings.

Since I fit a used valve body, it will last perhaps up to 150.000km instead of 300.000. I already put about 20.000km on the box so in 30.000 km, after a good 50.000, I will probably do an oil change and may even fit a factory new valve body to see if that makes the box shift even better. This would cost me about 1000 euros. The fine shifting valve body I have now, will be held in reserve. I am going to overhaul the 5HP18 box that came out of the car after my previous overhaul as I plan on buying a 3.0 V8 sedan or touring for my girlfriend in about a year or so. That car can then be fitted with this overhauled box with the used but "ok" valve body. This makes it possible to specifically look for a car with autobox damage meaning the price goes down.

[shogun]

Excellent info, Frank. Thanks a lot.
I might add, we always test the solenoids + pistons inside the bore with ATF when the valve body is disassembled, if it moves softly. We also polish the solenoids in such case as well as the bore. Usually helps to overcome the problem. Otherwise you have to get hold of another used valve body and use the parts needed for swopping. That is an old youtube from 7 years ago when we were still learning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRN1jwEkydg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BifeYG6d2hU/UwsigkAjakI/AAAAAAAAEXA/nDKMnqiVFV8/s400/P1180784.jpg
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-17n8VCgTdJs/UwsitfZ19ZI/AAAAAAAAEXI/hynAnL0_IoM/s400/P1180786.jpg

[whiskychaser]

The specifications and tolerances for the bores would be extremely useful. Don't suppose your specialist passed them on did he?

[shogun]

Frank87 has some good youtubes on the 5HP18 problems and his repairs of 5HP18 https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwWjgwgq1Akos1D1WntqhQA

[whiskychaser]

Very interesting videos. Thanks for posting them :)

[shogun]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQBPH8MF6N0
good training youtube: ZF 5HP18 Automatic Transmission Complete Tear Down - BMW E34 525i 4K Video.

[shogun]

One more hint, have in this year already read about 10 broken selector shift valves, mainly on 5HP18.Replacement Selector Shift Valve: 1056 327 173 (ZF Part number). The selector valve inside the valve body was originally made out of a kind of plastic/resin, that breaks on many transmissions, so you have the feeling first that shifting is hard and then you can shift and shift and nothing happens actually inside the transmission, this part is now made of a new kind of reinforced 'plastic/metal' material, also when ATF gets hot, the old material expands and shifting gets harder.
example Selector Valve http://www.thectsc.com/products/selector-valve-84-3.html
So basically the same problem as with the small plastic balls in the valve body which get smaller and smaller and finally disappear.
cases I know of within last month, 1 x on an E32 730 M60B30 with 5HP18, another one on an E36 M3 with 5HP18, and one case on an E34 with a 5HP18 and another one on a E36 with 5HP18.
That part is included in every valve body overhault kit, position 50.020 Valve Body Kit 5HP18
To replace that part you have to remove the transmission oil pan, the trans filter, then unbolt the valve body and drop it a bit and then you can change that part. No need to disassemble the valve body, but of you want to do so, here we have some pics when we do that in my garage for valve body overhaul Deep In E32　http://e32b12.blogspot.com/search/label/5HP18

Broken part:

[genphreak]

Nice, Frank87- thanks you for updating and clarifying the verified causes, symptoms. Not easy to do but once you get into ATs they become a challenge one can't set aside. You've done well, and not left anyone out by sharing a lot of insights. cheers

[shogun]

I just found this 5HP18 valve body overhaul, plenty of pics, so I add it to this thread to find it in the future when someone want to do it http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/13172034-Project-23-ZF-5HP18-Transmission-Valve-Body-Overhaul-DIY-Part-1

[Frank87]

Additional info that I got from a specialist is that you actually shouldnt mess with the valvebody except for 2 pieces:
- The selector (broken as shown in shoguns pic), updated design available
- Main pressure regulator (long thick piston in main block) -> Replace it with 5HP19 MPR

The guy said the 5HP19 regulator fits directly and seals better. This means the body holds its pressures better. I believe him because looking at the pictures, you see it is very similar.

Other than that. After all the work I did on 5HP18 boxes hobbywise, I can really say that next time, I will immediately buy a refurbished body from ZF or a specialist and I wont mess with it myself anymore.

I did real good and my box shifts real good but all that work and sourcing all those parts, it's just not worth it.

[shogun]

with main pressure regulator you mean this one? https://restomods.com/listing/ZF-5HP19-Transmission-Valve-Body-331784745249.html
http://transpartsnow.com/pressure-regulator-valve-repair-transgo-zf5hp19-zf5-19-pr/

[shogun]

5HP18 valve body overhaul DIY recovered with wayback machine https://web.archive.org/web/20150918210007/http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/13172034-Project-23-ZF-5HP18-Transmission-Valve-Body-Overhaul-DIY-Part-1