Touring Suspesion Kits

[fran9r]

I have a 1992 525i touring, and the rear suspension seems to be really hard. Really really hard.

I'm not too fussed about that, but to improve the handling I would like to fit a suspension kit. Quite happy to delete the self leveling gubbins these cars come with.

What are my best options? I don't have the funds for a top level kit, but do want to improve handling.

[fran9r]

Can a saloon kit like this be fitted: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sport-Suspension-lowering-kit-Springs-Shocks-Series-5-BMW-E34-Saloon-/361318226723?fits=Car+Make%3ABMW|Plat_Gen%3AE34&hash=item54203e9b23

Even if I need one with the rear springs beefed up perhaps?

[shogun]

Check the front, they mention in the offer "........the kit fits only for orginal suspension kit with m14 d16 front shocks !"
Otherwise you might also need front suspension shock mounts, and LAD have different shock mounts also compared to normal ones.

If you want them cheap, check for Kayaba, KYB , this shop is specialized on shocks and springs http://stores.ebay.com/jdmwerks13?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

If you want to eliminate LAD shocks, you have to make a modification to the hydraulic system, you cannot just block the feed line to the shocks from the power steering pump, you need a return u-pipe to feed back the fluid to the Pentosin container, otherwise the power steering pump will break. I have posted some pics here. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1379064-LAD-self-levelling-elimination-LAD-shock-repair-info&highlight=LAD+elimination

[fran9r]

Hi and thanks for the info.

Yep understand that cheap set was a specific fitment.

I'm presuming the hard ride is a result of a failure of the LAD shocks, so would prefer to replace. Just wondering if the saloon kits would fit -presume they say touring only as a result of the adjustable suspension? Maybe the extra weight of the touring too.

How does your car handle with your suspension kit?

Thanks for the link, will take a look.

[shogun]

I have LAD and I keep it because it is simple and very comfortable. Purpose of the System
The primary function of Level Control Systems is to maintain the height of the vehicle as closely as possible to a predetermined level under all load conditions. This constant level allows the suspension system to maintain the alignment geometry. Camber and Toe in are minimally affected when the ride height is consistent. In addition, the headlight range stays consistent throughout the various operating conditions. The Level Control System is designed to operate in the event of static changes such as
when passengers are entering or exiting the vehicle or quasi-static such as s when the fuel tank is emptying while driving. The Level Control System come in various configurations such as hydraulic (hydropneumatic) or pneumatic only systems.
Hydropneumatic systems use high pressure hydraulic fluid which is dampened by a gas cushion from a nitrogen charged accumulator. These system use and electro-hydraulic pump or an engine driven piston pump. http://www.e38.org/selflevel.pdf
lastabhaengige Daempfung.Which means: Load-dependent Dampening
http://twrite.org/shogunnew/files/suspension/02LAD.JPG
Engine off, load heavy stuff into the trunk that the rear goes down. Start engine, rear should go up to normal level.
Elimination is done by people to save money for expensive new LAD shocks, or where the LAD lines leak. I would NEVER eliminate LAD.

Testing the rear LAD bombs, checking ride height, adjusting ride height, all explained here http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1367138-How-to-adjust-the-BMW-735iL-lad-system

If the rear is hard, then you rear bombs are shot, because these are the actual shock absorbers. The bladder inside is gas filled. You can test your bombs by removing the connecting hose and stick a screwdriver in, if it goes in, bombs are dead and filled with Pentosin. On my website if have pics and a video showing the function of the bombs. See under funstuff >>BMW undressed http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html

[fran9r]

OK so the only price I can find for a pair of rear shocks is around £1000.

So a set of aftermarket suspension kit becons then!

Can anyone tell me if a saloon kit will fit? If not, does anyone make a good priced touring kit? Any other parts I will need?

Would like to get it handling well before I get some more speed from the engine.

[shogun]

I repeat, if the sus on the rear is hard, and no shock is leaking, you do not need new shocks, you only needs 2 bombs. P/N: 37211132043, usually the cost around $140.

Meyle also makes them: Meyle 37211132043 - Suspension Self-Leveling Unit Accumulator, Cross References: Meyle:37211132043MY, Febi also: W0133-1606445

I cannot comment on other shocks for the E34 Touring, as I do not own one.

[fran9r]

Sorry I'm obviously being thick.

Great, will check my shocks out then, and see if I can get a cheap supply in the UK of the bombs.

[shogun]

Search Ebay U.K. with : bmw 37211132043
Plenty new ones on offer, per piece around GBP 80

How to change http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/LAD_accumulators/LAD_accumulators.htm
the question is how corroded the old connections are, you might also need the short hose connections with the metal tube as shown, unfortunately pretty expensive, see www.realoem.com
or find a shop which crimps new hydraulic hoses onto the pipe bends. You need HIGH pressure hydraulic hoses, there is a max pressure of about 140 bar! My original ones are laid out for 180 bar.

[fran9r]

Great, thanks for the help. I'm a little concerned it didn't sure the author's ride quality, but appreciate it should have. Wonder what else they needed to change?

Definately think it would be best to change mine, maybe another job for the winter. The car can come off the road for a while.

[shogun]

A big difference you will feel. 2 weeks ago I changed on an E32 Alpina B12 750iL both LAD bombs, the owner complained about hard rear suspension. Original ones were from 1988! After I took them off with the hose still connected I put the bomb in a vice and used a large water pipe wrench to get the hose/pipe connection off. Then I pushed in a screwdriver into that hole into the bombs, the screwdriver went straight thru to the other side of the metal ball, on both bombs the 'bladders' with the gas were completely destroyed. No shock absorbing at all of course. After I installed 2 new bombs from Febi, he was very happy with the ride.
Pay attention not to buy "new" old stock. These bladders are not 100% tight and the material let's thru a certain percentage of the nitrogen every year, even when only stored and not in use. So if you buy old stock which is 10 years old, that is waste of money. The production date is embossed into the steel housing of the bombs.

[fran9r]

OK so I have checked out the shocks on the rear, and they seem OK -springs have a little rust but as the shock is covered by a runner cover there isn't much to see. There is no loss of fluid though.

One thing I have noticed is that the rear ride height seems low --only just above the tyre. It rose a small amount with the engine running, but not a great deal. Front suspension is stock.

Engine off:
http://s29.postimg.org/4i5wy1q3n/BMW_Suspension.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4i5wy1q3n/)
Engine running:
http://s14.postimg.org/ggfh3naal/BMW_Suspension_2.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/ggfh3naal/)
Any comments?

[shogun]

Might be o.k., the front is always higher and that looks a bit 'funny', that is why many install lowering springs only in the front.

The Bentley Repair manual has info about that. As I do not have an E34 Manual from Bentley, I can only give you the data for the E32, but should be same/similar
Bentley's has a table for LAD equipped E32 cars as follows:
Wheels Rear ride height
15 in. 522 +/-3 mm (20.55 +/- 0.4 inches)
16 in. 529 +/-3 mm (20.93 +/- 0.1 inches)
17 in. 545 +/-3 mm (21.46 +/- 0.1 inches)

Ride height is measured from the lower edge of the wheel arch to the bottom edge of the wheel rim (not the ground).

You can adjust the ride height very easy, see my website. But make it slowly and wait till the pump pumps the fluid into the rear, 1 mm adjustment on the bar of the lever is/maybe about 1 inch of the ride height.
So adjustment must be very careful in small steps.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/674635/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/727174/

[genphreak]

I've got some new e34 SLS/LAD sedan shocks I didn't get round to using. The Touring is long gone now :-( But shipping from here would be expensive. They cost me $1000 USD but I'll sell them much cheaper (I've no use for them now). They are pretty much NLA these days so are probably worth more ;-)

[mattyb]

I have the rear springs for the system , new Eibach bouyght by mistake and no need for them, u can have them for nothing if u want to buy genphreaks shocks and ship em. might help offset the cost of shipping from oz, I live near nik so its no prob to ship em together if u want to do this

[genphreak]

Might be o.k., the front is always higher and that looks a bit 'funny'

Even though the human eye sees the e34 high at the front due to its lower rear arches, and the suspension height is measured from rim to wheel arch, this rule of thumb is simpler to use: Park the car on the flat, walk across the street and look at the car side-on: If the lower sill appears flat you are factory. If the rear of the sill is lower than the front, your SLS is not supporting the car's weight.

And springs get bad with age, new ones make a massive improvement. I replace them on mine when I do the shocks once the car gets >10 years old to restore factory ride and keep the feeling... yea baby!