Hello from Spain!

[Inmy7]

Hi all, I come (if the site is not suitable Tell me), my name is Ismael I'm in Seville (southern Andalusia - Spain) and have 3 years a BMW 535i E34 (1991). Also I have a problem with it I can not find solution.

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[Inmy7]

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The problem is cold, cold start when you start your car idling is very irregular, if not accelerate and try to get out through the exhaust explodes after unsos seconds and doing well. I think it may be the wiring ...

Has proven anything but: flowmeter, lambda probe (it is new but not original, the disconnected and remains the same), fuel pressure regulator, idle valve and UCE

Sometimes also with warm engine speed and try not respond, going as drowned and hits a pull and suddenly goes well

[632 Regal]

Bad idle could be an intake air leak, disconnected hose etc.

A backfire through exhaust is almost always an electrical issue.

If it suddenly runs fine I would look for a bad or loose electrical connector.

Did this problem just start happening after the rebuild?

[Inmy7]

Bad idle could be an intake air leak, disconnected hose etc.

A backfire through exhaust is almost always and electrical issue.

If it suddenly runs fine I would look for a bad or loose electrical connector.

Did this problem just start happening after the rebuild?

Vacuum hoses are all new, I think so, although I'm not sure because after 2 days to have it rebuilt it. I check the electrical connectors and cables running over the injectors. I think it may be electrical problem of the temperature sensor ...


Tomorrow I want to make a video


Thank you very much for answering and forgive my English is the translator: \

[shogun]

Here are vacuum hose diagrams M30
http://blog.bavauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/M30_Vacuum_Hose_Routing-0061.jpg
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=150293
http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=62935&sid=301a64f5ff20f822013f73fd7b54701a

[mattyb]

welcome Inmy, cant help u with the problem but nice looking car though

[Inmy7]

Here are vacuum hose diagrams M30
http://blog.bavauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/M30_Vacuum_Hose_Routing-0061.jpg
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=150293
http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=62935&sid=301a64f5ff20f822013f73fd7b54701a

Many thanks, I have them all revised and new, all we have not seen is where it says' To the purge valve underneight the throttle ?? '' and the tube from the intake manifold ICV is not new

http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/files/intake_manifold_106.jpg

Today I received the electrical system that goes up injectors and apparently everything is correct, the temperature sensor wires are frayed. I have taped well, I leave the video for ye see him better


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpVpN3rRGRU


By the way I have just given me that I have two identical connectors. Agree that the canister valve. I have changed and then try them as the car goes, are both two pins, I have to check what color each wire carries. I only remember that one of them is yellow (you just put)

[Inmy7]

welcome Inmy, cant help u with the problem but nice looking car though

Many thanks matty! cheers

[Inmy7]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJAy9FbUN2M


the background sound is dual-mass flywheel shabby

[Inmy7]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DCdDOE_VZA

[632 Regal]

The idle is too low causing the slight miss/backfire. It almost sounds like an intake air leak somewhere. Have you cleaned the ICV and does it turn freely?

I don't have a 3.5 so I can't tell you where the purge valve hose goes to.

The video of the engine sounds like valves? Very hard to tell without hearing it in person.

Are there any codes or engine lights light on the dashboard?


all we have not seen is where it says' To the purge valve underneight the throttle ?? '' and the tube from the intake manifold ICV is not new

I'm still thinking vacume leak.

[632 Regal]

By the way I have just given me that I have two identical connectors. Agree that the canister valve. I have changed and then try them as the car goes, are both two pins, I have to check what color each wire carries. I only remember that one of them is yellow (you just put)

I have the V8 3.0 and there are also 2 identical electric connectors. It is possible these are switched?

Also you might want to disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to re-set the engine computer after you change anything.

I will try to monitor this thread more closely.

[Inmy7]

The idle is too low causing the slight miss/backfire. It almost sounds like an intake air leak somewhere. Have you cleaned the ICV and does it turn freely?

I don't have a 3.5 so I can't tell you where the purge valve hose goes to.

The video of the engine sounds like valves? Very hard to tell without hearing it in person.

Are there any codes or engine lights light on the dashboard?



I'm still thinking vacume leak.

I cleaned the ICV and I think since doing worse, while it. A What do you mean with valves?

This engine has very few empty sockets. And those are reviewed and this has everything perfect.

Another thing that makes me, for example today, I notice that the engine speed does not accelerate, chokes, holds and paste explosions escape. It is unbearable. It also happens to me when I want to go from standstill creek but I play with the throttle. I will try a new ICV valve

Not always does this to me, but the unstable idle if it is always cold

[632 Regal]

Not always does this to me, but the unstable idle if it is always cold

It runs fine when warm?

[Inmy7]

It runs fine when warm?

The idle if it is much thinner. Today I passed a little throttle position switch and have the idle 1000 rpm. I do well, I think you have to have a distance from the throttle body butterfly 0.035. Correct me if it is not.

[632 Regal]

The idle if it is much thinner. Today I passed a little throttle position switch and have the idle 1000 rpm. I do well, I think you have to have a distance from the throttle body butterfly 0.035. Correct me if it is not.

On my car the butterfly is almost completely closed, this is why we have the Idle Control Valve.

[Javier]

Guess the timing chain was set properly, also the valves adjustment?

Javier

[632 Regal]

That was my first guess but then I thought they were hydraulic... That would explain everything.

http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Engine/valve_adjust.htm

[Inmy7]

Guess the timing chain was set properly, also the valves adjustment?

Javier
I will review the distribution chain. The car starts perfectly relationship will not if. Adjusting valves did recently sounds great

I thought that the lambda probe is not compatible. It is heated and when failure is more cold do not know if it will be related

[Javier]

A small offset of the chain will not prevent the car from starting but may cause the engine be rough. Also over/under-tightening the valves will do a mess. I hear a significant ticking there, my computer even vibrates in sync.

[Inmy7]

A small offset of the chain will not prevent the car from starting but may cause the engine be rough. Also over/under-tightening the valves will do a mess. I hear a significant ticking there, my computer even vibrates in sync.

I will review this week without fail. I got a little tired and the problem of truth ....

Thank you all, I will keep you informed

[Inmy7]

I've noticed that a lot of white smoke made idle. The level of antifreeze and oil is always well

[632 Regal]

I've noticed that a lot of white smoke made idle. The level of antifreeze and oil is always well

Means nothing if not driven about an hour in good traffic after a rebuild to get moisture out of the exhaust.

[Inmy7]

Means nothing if not driven about an hour in good traffic after a rebuild to get moisture out of the exhaust.

But the reconstruction was 1 year...

[whiskychaser]

But the reconstruction was 1 year...
Steam out of the exhaust is very common in autumn/winter. The exhaust is a big, heavy lump of metal. If you are only making short journeys, I would not be surprised if you have 1/3 litre of water inside it.

FWIW, I agree with Javier. Hard to hear with the DMF clattering away but it does sound like the valve timing is off.

[Inmy7]

Steam out of the exhaust is very common in autumn/winter. The exhaust is a big, heavy lump of metal. If you are only making short journeys, I would not be surprised if you have 1/3 litre of water inside it.

FWIW, I agree with Javier. Hard to hear with the DMF clattering away but it does sound like the valve timing is off.

If you're right. The car is used for short journeys.


Yesterday I saw him just steam. I also notice small explosions in the exhaust. Today I have received the original lambda probe I want to try it. I also want to adjust the throttle, I read it with a gauge of 0,035 is correct?

[whiskychaser]

If you're right. The car is used for short journeys.


Yesterday I saw him just steam. I also notice small explosions in the exhaust. Today I have received the original lambda probe I want to try it. I also want to adjust the throttle, I read it with a gauge of 0,035 is correct?
If you get the problem when it is cold, it is unlikely to be the lambda sensor - that only comes in when the engine has warmed up.

This is what Bentleys says about adjusting the throttle position switch:
'Loosen the switch screws and connector an ohmmeter across the switch terminals. With the throttle at idle, rotate the switch just until there is continuity. Tighten the mounting screws'.

Looking at the diagram, I'd say you need terminals 18 & 2 for a manual car. I think you will find an analogue meter easier to use as you will see the needle flick over

HTH

[genphreak]

... and once you've verified there is no vacuum leak (did you also verify the FPR hose, rocker cover to intake boot, the intake boot for hidden cracks/holes and the one-way valve in the brake booster vacuum line?), the TPS setting, the AFM setting (record the number of turns required to close from the factory setting before changing it), correct fuel pressure... are you getting ignition in all cylinders at idle? It may be that some plugs are not firing at idle/other conditions, leads, connections and ignition coil (common problem). Also check the temp blue temp sensor is giving correct resistance... if not that, you may need to pull the timing case covers again to check the timing sprockets are in line at TDC.

Hopefully you'll find a loose spark plug or connection and be straight back in the race!

[632 Regal]

Last post: 11-11-2015 03:56 PM

I do hope he follows up, that video sounded real nasty.

[Inmy7]

If you get the problem when it is cold, it is unlikely to be the lambda sensor - that only comes in when the engine has warmed up.

This is what Bentleys says about adjusting the throttle position switch:
'Loosen the switch screws and connector an ohmmeter across the switch terminals. With the throttle at idle, rotate the switch just until there is continuity. Tighten the mounting screws'.

Looking at the diagram, I'd say you need terminals 18 & 2 for a manual car. I think you will find an analogue meter easier to use as you will see the needle flick over

HTH

It'll prove it. Hot is stable but not doing much better. I've purchased the fuel pump.

[Inmy7]

... and once you've verified there is no vacuum leak (did you also verify the FPR hose, rocker cover to intake boot, the intake boot for hidden cracks/holes and the one-way valve in the brake booster vacuum line?), the TPS setting, the AFM setting (record the number of turns required to close from the factory setting before changing it), correct fuel pressure... are you getting ignition in all cylinders at idle? It may be that some plugs are not firing at idle/other conditions, leads, connections and ignition coil (common problem). Also check the temp blue temp sensor is giving correct resistance... if not that, you may need to pull the timing case covers again to check the timing sprockets are in line at TDC.

Hopefully you'll find a loose spark plug or connection and be straight back in the race!

I bought the fuel pump , I also plan another possible cause. When removing the engine did not have the supports. Hold it with ropes and one of them broke down and the engine fell off. Compressor A / C, and even engine mount of the engine block (where the engine is bolted support) broke. Repair and send it all right but I've noticed that sweat a little oil in that area, I think there is a pore or something leaking oil out there. I thought dry the area, block printing and painting that part to see if it improves. I think it has a small air intake there

[632 Regal]

When it is running you can pull the oil dipstick, the air going into the hole should make a difference in idle. If no difference then you have an air leak into the block.

[Inmy7]

When it is running you can pull the oil dipstick, the air going into the hole should make a difference in idle. If no difference then you have an air leak into the block.
That makes me when I remove the oil plug, the rod would have to prove

[632 Regal]

That makes me when I remove the oil plug, the rod would have to prove

With all due respect I just can not understand this.

Can you reply with BOTH your translated and native spanish so my wife can help translate?

[Javier]

Guess he means: That happens when he remove the Oil filling port cap. For the oil dipstick, he would have to try (an see what happens).

[Inmy7]

With all due respect I just can not understand this.

Can you reply with BOTH your translated and native spanish so my wife can help translate?

In Spanish:

Cuando quito el tapon de llenado de aceite, el coche va peor. Tendría que mirar si me hace lo mismo con la varilla del aceite

[Inmy7]

Guess he means: That happens when he remove the Oil filling port cap. For the oil dipstick, he would have to try (an see what happens).

Every day I have more clear that it is a crack in the block. I was going to give a block. My idea is to remove all my parts (pistons with new segments and plain rod and bench, new seals and mount everything in the engine block)

[Javier]

This is weird. A crack in the block would be that significant if it compromises a combustion chamber. Have you seen any signs in the refrigerant or over-pressure in the cooling system? What about the oil? Any visible cracks and symptoms from the outside? Have you tried a compression test? To go out and buy a block is a hard decision. I would disassemble completely and inspect carefully before getting a replacement block. You described an oil leak in the area of the engine mounting, and I believe there are no oil passages around that area.

[Inmy7]

This is weird. A crack in the block would be that significant if it compromises a combustion chamber. Have you seen any signs in the refrigerant or over-pressure in the cooling system? No What about the oil? 5W40 Petronas Any visible cracks and symptoms from the outside? I've only seen half summarize some of the engine block, little Have you tried a compression test? A two cylinders 1 and 2 testing, all right. 10.5, New segments. To go out and buy a block is a hard decision. I would disassemble completely and inspect carefully before getting a replacement block. You described an oil leak in the area of the engine mounting, and I believe there are no oil passages around that area. The engine block it away .. I would have to dismantle everything and mount it on the engine block. I also thought the area primer and then paint to test

Today I spend a rather strange thing, I was out in 1st speed and I stalled and would not start ¿gasoline pump? First symptoms?


Sometimes hot it also happened to me when I went out the car they wanted to penetrate. I had to play with the throttle. The car noticed him as drowned

[genphreak]

Pumps often go intermittently first. Tapping on the top of the pump can get them running again, but suggest you replace it.

[Inmy7]

Pumps often go intermittently first. Tapping on the top of the pump can get them running again, but suggest you replace it.
Ok, if I get to see and taste. Another question I'm about to buy a single mass flywheel BMW 528i E28, questions:

I need:
- Flywheel
- Clutch Kit (528i E28 guess)
- Supplement (25111220600)
- Engine flywheel bolts
- Screws clutch
And, the release bearing? The 535i would be worth? Then I saw that change the bearing necessary? (11211709681)