shogun
01-11-2016, 08:42 AM
Had an email exchange with an old buddy from OH with an E34 535: .. hope the world finds you well. I have a problem ...My 535 is having a battery drain. I replaced the battery 2 months past thinking that was it. I allowed it to sit for a week and it is DOA I mean dead dead not low but nothing, So something is on or stuck. I removed the lamps in the trunk and clove box and hood. Still goes low. I'm leaning on the voltage regulator or the diode pack in the alternator. What say you?
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Told him to perform a closed current draw test,Maximum closed current by vehicle E31 50mA, E32 50mA, E34 40mA,E36 30mA,E38 50mA,E39 40mA,E46 40mA,E52 50mA, E53 40mA, Z3 30mA
Performing Closed Current Draw Test: Select proper measuring device (DISplus, MoDic or DVOM.Remember amperage draw in excess of 10A will damage DVOM.Use inductive amp probe of DISplus when amperage draw is high.When using DISplus inductive probe, clamp on negative battery cable with arrow pointing away from battery. Switch off all consumers.(It is not necessary to disconnect B- from body when using inductive probe). Connect (-) test lead to negative battery terminal and (+) test lead to a known good ground. Ensure all systems are OFF ! Be sure DVOM is on and set in proper mode. Disconnect battery ground lead from body. Observe meter reading, wait 16 minutes for vehicle to enter sleep mode. Identify faulty circuit by disconnecting fuses, relays, control modules or connectors, observing meter readings. Defective circuit is found when current is below maximum closed current for vehicle being tested. use this link for more details http://www.e38.org/battery.pdf
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reply today: Update.Put in my spare regulator I bought from you years ago. Battery holding its charge now. The problem was the brushes were so worn that one or both were not touching the comutator. I theorise the regulator was trying to maintain 12-14 volts by turning on the cicuit drawing from the battery yet while running the car would work fine fooling me into a battery problem. Pass it on. Put another voltage regulator on the shelf for me as I used my stock one, I'll buy one I a couple of weeks. Ron
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Never heard of this, but apparently this solved the problem.
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Told him to perform a closed current draw test,Maximum closed current by vehicle E31 50mA, E32 50mA, E34 40mA,E36 30mA,E38 50mA,E39 40mA,E46 40mA,E52 50mA, E53 40mA, Z3 30mA
Performing Closed Current Draw Test: Select proper measuring device (DISplus, MoDic or DVOM.Remember amperage draw in excess of 10A will damage DVOM.Use inductive amp probe of DISplus when amperage draw is high.When using DISplus inductive probe, clamp on negative battery cable with arrow pointing away from battery. Switch off all consumers.(It is not necessary to disconnect B- from body when using inductive probe). Connect (-) test lead to negative battery terminal and (+) test lead to a known good ground. Ensure all systems are OFF ! Be sure DVOM is on and set in proper mode. Disconnect battery ground lead from body. Observe meter reading, wait 16 minutes for vehicle to enter sleep mode. Identify faulty circuit by disconnecting fuses, relays, control modules or connectors, observing meter readings. Defective circuit is found when current is below maximum closed current for vehicle being tested. use this link for more details http://www.e38.org/battery.pdf
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reply today: Update.Put in my spare regulator I bought from you years ago. Battery holding its charge now. The problem was the brushes were so worn that one or both were not touching the comutator. I theorise the regulator was trying to maintain 12-14 volts by turning on the cicuit drawing from the battery yet while running the car would work fine fooling me into a battery problem. Pass it on. Put another voltage regulator on the shelf for me as I used my stock one, I'll buy one I a couple of weeks. Ron
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Never heard of this, but apparently this solved the problem.