E34 rear suspension sag & M5 side skirts questions

[Knightmayre]

Hi everyone

I have a 90 E34 535i with noticeable sagging suspension at the rear.

I have searched through the forums but every one was rather old so I thought I would start a new thread.
I don't think I have the self levelling suspension but will look for the "bombs" this afternoon just to see what's in there.

I am considering lowering the front so it matches the rear as the ride quality is still excellent.
I also get no errors on the instrument panel at all.

I can get the parts at cost price thanks to a mate... he reckons that replacing the rear shockers/springs is a bitch of a job.

So, basically my 1st question is, do I lower the front or replace the rear?

Question 2 is easier - I picked up a set of M5 side skirts (and a rear garnish) for $110 yesterday, came with some clips but not enough for both skirts.
It looks like I just need to drill some holes in my sills to fit them, using self-tappers.

If anyone has done this before can you let me know what the best way of fitting them is?

Thanks in advance
Dave

1990 E34 535i

[Coyote_ar]

well, springs do lose stiffness with time ...

my rear suspension is low aswell, and i do not have the self levelling suspension.
in my case i will be dropping the front, mostly cause its too tall, and i actually like the height of the rear right now. but if i load stuff in the trunk, you can tell the springs are a bit soft, cause the car drops a lot.
so i may end up replacing the rears for shorter yet harder springs.

dunno about the 2nd one ... but im interested in the answer.

[Knightmayre]

Hi and thanks for the reply...
I also like the looks of the rear where it is now, but the front looks stupid with the big gap- is like it has no engine in it!
That's why I am really considering getting the fronts lowered.


As for the skirts, I am going to clean them up (they have about 4 years of dust on them) but they are genuine BMW M5 skirts so I reckon it will look a bit nicer with them on.
Am going to try doing a test fit tonight and will post before and after pics of what she looks like.


Cheers
Dave

[Knightmayre]

Fitted the skirts, look quite nice... going to paint them matte black at the weekend.

8506

[632 Regal]

Hi Dave and welcome to the forum.

My 95 has the same skirts, not sure if they were retrofited from a M5 or stock but they have a bunch of plastic clips on the underside that hold them on. Mine are painted the same as the car but it's black so not sure if they should be matt or shiney paint on a different color car.

Looking at your front fenders the little turn lights did not come out until '95 here in the US. Not sure what went on in Australia though but absolutely not prior to 95 here.

The stock springs do normally sit high in the front (this is not my first E34). First thing I wanted to do was the same as you until I found that it was actually supposed to look stupid with the big gap in front. The rear on yours looks to be about 2-3cm low though. You should probably get a set of lowering springs which will be a little stiffer in back and raise it up to decent height and also lower the front about 4cm. Do not get the Bav-auto springs because... just dont. I don't remember which springs the current E34 has, all I know is they are satisfactory so far, doing a search to see what springs are in there. Can't find it here although I know I posted it, I almost want to say Eibachs but not sure. Could be H&R, sorry but I can't just stick my head under the fender and see them. Only confirmed one time when I replaced the front arms.

You do not need to use a spring compressor with lowering springs but you do need them with the stock ones especially on install, removal... you can be (what cant I type CRazy?) crazy like me and use an impact gun and shoe to shield yourself incase it wants to shoot across the yard. Not real spooky but prepare incase.

Here are pics of the mystery car and stance of the springs: http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php/44529-New-ride?p=346275#post346275

[Knightmayre]

Hi Jeff,

Have no idea about the turn signal repeaters, as far as I could tell they're the correct ones from the factory- might be a BMW Australia thing.
Mine is definitely a 1990 model as most of the data stamps say either 89 or 90 on them.

Am not lowering the back, have decided to put lowered springs on the front (AU$150) for both, incl fitting- handy having a family relative who works for a large suspension company here in Aus. I don't like the huge air gap on the front at all lol

As for the side skirts, I had some of the clips so I put them on and also drilled a few holes and used the plastic "Christmas tree" fasteners to fit the upper part.
I'm painting them matte black as the rest of the car is black under the bumpers and gloss will show up too many imperfections.

I've had the scary experience of when a spring compressor gave way and the spring hurtled away down the driveway!
This is why I'm getting the shop to do it. blackeye

Cheers and thanks for the replies,
Dave

[632 Regal]

Lowering springs on the rear will actually raise yours up a couple cm not lower it plus they will not sag as much when you have a full car or junk in the trunk. Do you know what brand springs you are getting for the front?

Can't beat that price with install! How are the thrust and control arms? Any knocking going over bumps or tapping the brakes at low speeds? Replaced all mine with cheap china ones off ebay, great reviews and look like high quality for 1/4th the price.

[Knightmayre]

I rarely drive with passengers, but can't afford to do all the springs right now... the lowered springs are from Pedders.
Hoping to get them fitted soon but as it's a "mates rate" job I have to wait until they're not busy before they can do it.

No clunks or any other noises... I had to replace the linkages that go from the shocks to the sway bar so it would pass its' roadworthy inspection but I got them dirt cheap too.
Painted the skirts yesterday and I reckon they look pretty good even if I say so myself! Will post pics tomorrow if I remember lol

Finally got her re-registered today - almost AU$1000!

Cheers
Dave

[genphreak]

Hi Dave,

Nice one mate, the 535i is an outstanding car and worth keeping. These older engined ones are far better to maintain than the newer V8s and drive really well- possibly better too. Just use a little more fuel because the trans is a 4 speeder. So a 5-speed manual conversion is always a good idea... I'm yet to see someone swap in a 5 or 6 speed auto box yet :-p

With the springs, the Pedders will ride higher than they should because the problem with all these cars is that after 20 years the rear springs sag. You will need to do them too- and not just to get a reasonable height there and at the front, but also to get proper weight distribution. With the sag at the back, your car will not handle right. As Jeff said earlier, they are meant to look higher at the front than you might expect (as people look at the gap between tyre and fender rather than the rake of the sill (which should be parallel to the road). All the lowered springs drop it more at the front because this is what people expect but it will step out more easily with this done.

In Oz, King springs do e34 sets quite cheap, also eibach prokits can be had for $279 very easily. With e34 its important not to drop it too low or you will lose the ride quality and drivability. Also be sure to put sports shocks on, and yes it really is worth buying Konis if you want to feel a really modern sports ride (these even beat M5 damping) because buying other sports dampers here is not easy either. The Pedders ones are just cheap euros, and I doubt they have a proper reduced-throw sport model available. I have a set of fronts here, they are like new but I'm yet to use them. Yes the Konis do cost more than any other, but not by much. If for some reason you do not buy shocks set with a reduced 'sports' throw, at worst, buy Boge Automatics. Full stop ;-)

You need to check the front thrust (upper control) arm bushings- they are often dead after 100,000km or so, and replacing the entire arm and ball joint is easiest and quite cheap. The lower arms can be replaced at the same time if you can budget about $200 for the aluminium ones as these are real cheap- are proper M5 spec and a little lighter so do improve feel too. And the tie-rods and centre rod- these can wear too.

Congrats on your new e34, it'll love you as much as you learn to love it... Before you paint the skirts black, do an online image search of e34, and compare different, light-coloured e34s from side on. The factory skirts are all done body colour- and they paint the trim piece under the door too. Black makes even a lowered car look high- at least to some people's taste

[Knightmayre]

Hello.... thanks for the huge reply,
I like the E34 a lot, is my 3rd beemer - I had (aeons ago) a 316, with the single headlights.
Then later on I swapped a computer & printer for a nice 520i (E28) which I loved but unfortunately it loved drinking fuel so she went, still miss those heated seats :)

As for Helga, I'm looking for what I can do, suspension-wise.

It does need rear springs and I've been told they're a nightmare to change... I haven't done much to her yet, mechanically that is- just enough to get her roadworthy.
I hate lowered cars personally but that's just me, I used to always put in blocks under my rear leafs to give it an ass-up look.

Just got to see what I can do, what other sources would you recommend? What to avoid on fleaBay?
I know enough about cars to be dangerous lol Always been a shadetree :)

As for not painting the skirts, you're too late, I have already painted them in satin black.
I think it looks good but as you say is all up to taste.

Thanks again for the info (to all of you)
Cheers!

Dave

[632 Regal]

I would try another set of stock rear springs, I have a set I can give you for postage but might not be worth the cost. Stockers should raise it up to a good position with the lowered fronts. Worth a shot.

Replacing the rear springs is very easy, the biggest problem is getting the lower strut of the mount, sometimes they want to stick. Other than that it is pretty straight foreward.

[genphreak]

Sounds like you are getting on with it :-)

Will send you some ideas on parts.

Re the rear springs, they are easy to change, but there is a trick which makes it hard for the tyre shop guys to avoid screwing up.

1. Wash your hands (that's half the trick)
2. Remove rear seat (need a 10mm socket, extension and mini ratchet handle)
- Bottom cushion (base) pulls up at the front, you have to get your fingers under it and lift about 20cm in from each corner where the clip is)
- Seat back, with the base safely removed from the cabin area, there is a 10mm plastic nut (near the passenger seatbelt locks nearest each door opening. Lower the armrest and remove the flap that hides the rear firewall/ski recess panel. Here you must remove 2x10mm steel nuts which hold the base of the back to the body. Then remove the rear headrests (wrestle them up but don't break the rear window, use your arms to take the pressure. Remove the headrest slot cover (twist the plastic bolts 90degrees with a large coin or something). Lift the seatbelt reel covers beside the headrests- be careful- the clips can break if you do it uncaringly.
- Now he only thing holding the seat are a hook behind each L+R passenger location. You have to lift the seat back 40mm on each side to dislocate the hook, i.e. Lift seat both sides and remove from the cabin.

The second tricky bit. Removing the parcel shelf and rear pillar covers.
Note: If you have electric blind, you may need to adapt the following. If you have a manual sun blind, lower it.
Wash your hands. Finger prints will never come off the shelf material, and you have to grab/manipulate the shelf a lot to get it out.
You need to get to the shock support bolts below the parcel shelf. Do not try to leave it in, you will damage things.

Remove the side C pillar covers
- With clean hands, pull away the door seal all the way up the c-pillar
- Put a hand behind the pillar cover and push it towards the parcel shelf / rear window (not forward). There are 4 clips, one 100mm or so from each corner, be careful, don't break them. Disconnect the little light connectors. Be careful. Don't break them. Repeat to do the other pillar cover.

Remove rear parcel shelf
(You will need a spludger (clip remover, but one off fleabay they sell kits out of china for $5 odd, look for the cheap orange ones).
- Remove the 2-3 little clips behind the seat with the spludger
- With clean hands Remove the parcel shelf clips/baby bolt (there are 2, depending on whether you have a baby bolt)
- Again with clean hands, lift the shelf carefully, looking for anywhere it is sticking to the insulation underneath it. The sun can make it stick after 10 years. Be careful, and make sure it is freed it right up all the way across and back.
- Pull the shelf toward you, lifting in the centre. 2 clips will dislocate under the glass when releasing the parcel shelf.

Now you can remove the rubber shock support covers with ease and access the 3 10mm nuts that locate and hold the shock support to the strut tower.

Now put the car on blocks. With it safely supported, go underneath and remove the 17 or 19mm nut holding the lower part of the shock strut to the suspension arm.

Remove and replace! The lot- the strut, the mount, the bump stop and the strut dust cover- and if old, the spring too, it's all completely rooted after 10-15 years.

Not so hard. Its a 3-6 beer job ;-)

EDIT: Some shops wreck the parcel shelves, pillar covers and all sorts of mayhem trying to do this quickly. But this is The Way, don't even try...

[Knightmayre]

Thank you for that post, I have printed it out and I will remove seat & parcel shelf myself first before I take it down to Pedders.

This is a great forum! Thanks to all for your help!

Dave

[genphreak]

Thank you for that post, I have printed it out and I will remove seat & parcel shelf myself first before I take it down to Pedders. This is a great forum! Thanks to all for your help! Dave
No worries mate!

I'd suggest doing all the interior bits yourself, they'll charge you much less if you turn up with no interior to tangle with and the strut mount nuts all exposed and ready to go!

Be sure, no matter what you do, to replace the strut top mounts. They always fail. Meyle HDs are the good/cheap replacements.

ON that note, I edited the last step: "Remove and replace!" to include:

The lot- the strut, the mount, the bump stop and the strut dust cover- and if old, the spring too, it's all completely rooted after 10-15 years.

Yep, source all these parts before you begin, missing them out just means having to remove it all again!