Head Gasket replacement M50TU

[keve34]

Looks like I will have to replace the head gasket, 1995 525i. Dripping coolant from the back of the engine, coolant in the oil - ugh! Bentley and others say to use the special tools to hold the camshafts in position, tension the timing chain, etc. Those tools are $$$ so is there a place to rent them? Or is it possible to do the job without them? I do lots of DIY but first time with H Gasket. Thanks.

[genphreak]

Headgasket is not hard but you have to be dead precise. Alloy castings need to be treated with care, so grab yourself a rubber mallet jic, use timber to sit it on when it comes off, and follow the rules/procedure to a tee.

I've hear people using wire etc, but when it comes to it, after investing all that love, money and time you don't want to think you are a tooth out, or screw up and calc it all out and **** yourself when the time comes to hit the key... I would do it with the tool, they come up on ebay or can be bought from shops that do engine work and sell parts, just look around. Not too expensive (see the one below), unless you want a multi-purpose one that does more engine types. Just sell it off cheap after you're done with it. E.g.

Camshaft alignment tool set for M42/M44/M50/M52/M54/M56/S50US/S52US engines
Product number: B-A1033
(Direct link to B-A1033) (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/1941052-new?product=B-A1033)




(Go directly under the your model to see which models the part fits)

Fits on models: E30 (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e30/1941052-new?product=B-A1033) E36 (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e36/1941052-new?product=B-A1033) E46 (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e46/1941052-new?product=B-A1033) E34 (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e34/1941052-new?product=B-A1033) E39 (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e39/1941052-new?product=B-A1033) E60 (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e60/1941052-new?product=B-A1033) E61 (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e61/1941052-new?product=B-A1033) E38 (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e38/1941052-new?product=B-A1033) X3 (E83) (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-x3_e83/1941052-new?product=B-A1033) X5 (E53) (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-x5_e53/1941052-new?product=B-A1033) Z3 (http://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-z3/1941052-new?product=B-A1033)


Price excl. VAT:
EUR
58.67






Weight: 0.35 Kg

[Dave M]

Welcome,

Yes, it is possible to do the job with relaively basic tools. When I did a couple of head gaskets, I bought a cam alignment tool. Wasn't pricey, probably ~$40-50, but you can do the job with a straight edge as long as you're careful to align things if they get moved a round. For the timing chain tensioner, I used a safety pins, great investment that I still have in my toolbox :D The other 'special' tool is a female torx socket ground down to fit inside a bolt hole (see pick below).

Good luck with it,

Dave

8509

8510

[Dave M]

Oh, your vanos will look a a bit different than my non-vanos head, but can be disassembled with basic tools as well. If you have idle/runing issues, might be a good time for vanos seal replacements.

[632 Regal]

Dont look like the straight edge will work with the M60 because the top part isn't machined like the '6 engines... But, looking into options.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71OnRy6YNyL._SL1500_.jpg

[keve34]

Thanks all for the comments and advice! I looked on ebay and found the alignment tool kit for under $60 - includes cam alignment blocks, flywheel lock tool and the wrench for turning the cam sprocket. I ordered the special Torx socket for the head bolts from Bavauto.com - as I recall it was under $20 but shipping adds some. Still not as bad as I had feared. So hopefully when all that comes in I will have everything else apart and ready.
When I am done with the project I will probably just re-sell the tools on ebay to keep them in circulation out in Bimmer land.

It took me a while to figure out what the Bentley manual meant in step #13 when it said to "Pry back the injector connector retaining clips.." to remove the fuel injector harness. I didn't find any detail on Youtube or anywhere about what this meant, so I looked in there with a good light and saw that there is a connector from the plastic harness tray down to each of the 6 injectors. After poking around under there and some head-scratching, I finally just pried up on the one on the front end of the engine with two flat screwdrivers (one from either side angled under the tray) and pried upward with both carefully. The connector popped out, so I continued through the other 5 the same way. I probably wasted an hour figuring this out!

Funny how sometimes the simplest steps can hang me up the first time through a procedure, but the writers of these manuals just don't realize how hard it can be to visualize what the heck they mean by their simplified instructions! Speaking for myself, of course...

I am sure I will run into other steps that mystify me for a while as I work through the process - but at least

[keve34]

Whoops, hit the button before finishing - anyway, at least the more "mechanical" parts of the process about removing camshafts, etc. are explained in great detail in various websites and Youtube videos - so when I get to that part I think I will be OK.
Thanks again to all!

[genphreak]

Thanks all for the comments and advice! ... After poking around under there and some head-scratching, I finally just pried up on the one on the front end of the engine with two flat screwdrivers (one from either side angled under the tray) and pried upward with both carefully. The connector popped out, so I continued through the other 5 the same way. I probably wasted an hour figuring this out!

Funny how sometimes the simplest steps can hang me up the first time through a procedure, but the writers of these manuals just don't realize how hard it can be to visualize what the heck they mean by their simplified instructions! Speaking for myself, of course...

I am sure I will run into other steps that mystify me for a while as I work through the process - but at least

You are learning the knack of these old cars, well done. Those injector clips were design version #1, it lasted a long time and works well, they just aren't technician friendly like the modern ones.

So don't fret any, there are plenty of other 'oddities' to enthrall you for years yet. You've started well though, not breaking (esp plastic) bits by taking your time is not just the key to saving time and money on these, it's really a vital skill!

[keve34]

Well how about that, I began my head gasket replacement Thanksgiving 2016 and just started the car after finishing Feb 19 (I've been kinda busy with work, etc.) - started right up! The lifters made a fair amount of racket at first, but once the engine warmed up I turned it off, then came back a while later and started it up and it was quiet - all good!

BUT it idles fast - at 1100 to 1200 for the first few minutes, then starts to cycle between 1700 and 1100 - each up/down taking about 2.5 seconds (10 cycles in 25 seconds). The throttle does not move, of course - and if I run it up to 1500 to 1800 the cycling goes away - then returns at idle.
It seems to me it must be related to the rich/lean switching that the computer does to make the oxidation/reduction catalytic converter work - it runs smoothly until about the time the O2 sensor would be warm enough to begin that cycle, then up down up down it goes. Yet that is just a guess.
I sprayed various places with carb cleaner to see if maybe a vacuum leak but no change. Everything seems to be tight but I know that can be misleading.

Any bright ideas?

[632 Regal]

Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, I would recommend after the engine is warm. Then restart and let it idle 10 minutes before going for a drive. The idle time lets the computer to stabilize. the ride helps the computer to know how you dive (drive hard). Should idle 500-600 but takes a while to get there. Took me a long drive that didn't help then the next day things changed to the 500-600 idle.