E34 power steering pump just karcked it (I think)

[Knightmayre]

Hello again
Thought I would start a new thread seeing as now I have a new issue :(
1990 E34 535i

Power steering pump just started making a horrible noise when I reversed out the driveway to go to work.
Is perfect when the front wheels are jacked up but as soon as there is any friction it makes a death rattle.

When I got home I checked the fluid level and it was full of air bubbles.
I assume these are self-bleeding pumps from what I have read so far.
Mine isn't bleeding out the air- I've either got one helluva air pocket or my pump is goosed.
I can let it sit running and there will be no bubbles but once I start to turn the wheel just a little, the noise returns with more air bubbles.

Is there anyone near me in Melbourne know of anywhere I could source another? Funds are limited at the moment (as usual!)
I don't know of any local wreckers that would have one so any info greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Dave

[632 Regal]

Clock it right to left while running, this will usually push high volumes of air out. If you are sucking air into the system you have a leak. Would be on the suction side (obviously). You also could have cross contamination attributing to the lack of air dissapaiting.

Get the foamy bubles going and shut it off, when it semi clears start it and do clock to clock again and let it rest. You have air in there or a leak. I am guessing air trapped in there. Been there done this.

What did you do to figure out it dont happen with the front wheels on the ground? Something sinister must be going on...

[shogun]

The pump is self bleeding. In case it makes noise there is air inside and that can also damage the seals.You can rebuild the pump, if necessary.
AT-VANE PUMP ZF 32411141058
For vehicles with Self-levelling suspension AT-TANDEM VANE PUMP ZF 32411141283

Here a DIY when we repaired our first ZF double vane pump, http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/526913/
I have a repair kit at home here in Japan and can send to AUS if you need. I will send you a PM for that.
That kit fits in single and double ZF vane pumps with a shaft diameter of 19mm.
ZF Vein (19mm shaft) universal kit fits:
Pump Kit / 318i / 91-94 / Z.F. Pump (11/91-1/94) BMW
Pump Kit / 525i / 88-91 / Z.F. pump (1/88-9-91) BMW
Pump Kit / 535i / (1/88-2/93) BMW
Pump Kit / 735i , 735il / 86-92 / Z.F. Pump (8/86-12/92) BMW
Pump Kit / 850i , 850csi / 93-95 / Tandem Z.F. Pump (6/93-3/95) BMW
Pump Kit / M5 / 89-93 / 6cyl. Tandem Z.F. Pump (9/89-3/93)
Pump Kit / 80/90 / 88-89 / Z.F. Pump, Diesel Engine AUDI
Pump Kit / 80/90 / 88-92 / Z.F. With Gas Engine AUDI
Pump kit / 90 Quattro 1995 gas engine AUDI
E32 750
E31 850
youtube how to do https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxqEN9DiXlY&hl=de&gl=DE

But first of all get the air out and try, maybe it still will work and no damage to the seals.

[Knightmayre]

...
What did you do to figure out it dont happen with the front wheels on the ground? Something sinister must be going on...

When the wheels are on the ground, the power steering pump screams at me when moving the wheels even just a little movement.
Jack her up so both wheels are off the ground and it will go from lock to lock perfectly with no noise whatsover.

I spent about 2 hours last night going lock to lock with the wheels off the ground until the reservoir was full of lots of tiny bubbles, then waiting for them to dissipate and repeating the process... maybe I am sucking in air somewhere but buggered if I can find it.
My mate overfilled the reservoir slightly, then put the cap on, unbeknown to me! That's when I discovered that the reservoir cap has a vent hole!! doh

Thing is, this happened overnight! One evening it was fine, then yesterday morning, screech! It's a really horrid noise too.

Cheers
Dave

[shogun]

Check the suction system from reservoir to power steering pump, there must be a point where it sucks air, especially check under the reservoir the hoses. The noise is caused by air bubbles.

ZF Recommended Steering Systems Flushing Procedure

ZF says: A steering system is an important safety component in a vehicle and must be properly maintained. With this in mind, a steering system must be flushed EVERY TIME a component of the system gets replaced, no matter if the components are new or remanufactured.

Equipment Needed:
- Safety Glasses
- Empty Bottle for contaminated oil
- Screwdriver
- Manufacturers’ Recommended Power Steering Fluid

1- Clean the outside of the oil reservoir and the surrounding area to ensure no dirt or foreign particles get into the oil reservoir.

2- With a screwdriver, loosen the clamp holding the return line connection between the steering gear and the oil reservoir.
Disconnect the oil line from the oil reservoir.

3- Insert the end of the return line into an empty bottle and cap the oil reservoir return connection with a plug.

4- While wearing safety glasses, start the engine and fill the oil reservoir with fresh power steering fluid while turning the steering
from side to side to purge all oil out of the system. (Use recommended fresh fluid to flush the system.)

5- Turn off the engine and remove oil reservoir from bracket. Flush out debris or particles from reservoir into container. Check oil
contamination for metal or foreign particles by filtering the contaminated oil with a coffee filter.

- Fine metal shaving means a normal wear and tear of the power steering pump.
- If metal chips are present, replace power steering pump.
- If black rubber particles are present, the pressure/return line inner lining is disintegrated. Replace the pressure/return
line.

6- Check the oil reservoir condition for cracks. If the oil reservoir is cracked, replace the oil reservoir. If reservoir has no cracks, just replace the oil filter. If filter is integrated inside the oil reservoir and cannot be removed for oil filter change, replace entire reservoir.

7- Check the condition of the pressure/return oil line for cracks, soft or sweat spots. If any of these conditions exist, replace lines.

8- Check all banjo bolt connections for blockage. If blocked, clear connections by appropriate method (air hose, fluid, etc.)

9- Reconnect oil reservoir into bracket.

10- Connect return line to oil reservoir.

11- Top off oil reservoir with manufacturers’ recommended fluid.

12- Start engine and turn steering from lock to lock to purge air out of the system.
Caution:
Do not hold steering gear from lock to lock for more than 30 second. This could cause the steering system to overheat.

12- Check for oil leakage and top off power steering fluid to recommended level.
The smallest particle can cause the system to leak or even fail. A clean system is a REQUIREMENT for acceptable service life.

[632 Regal]

Okay I think you have a clogged filter. Screaming and no assist with the wheels on the grround. Exact same situation on a PT Cruiser I was selling. Was able to take the reservoir off and clean the filter with a toothbrush and mineral spirits. Wasn't perfect right after but almost, told the buyer about it and he said he would see if it's clogged again.

[Knightmayre]

Thanks for all the info... I tried again yesterday and there is a constant stream of tiny bubbles in the reservoir.
I'm unsure which hose is the suction hose but a small leak in the hose does sound about right.

I'd be interested in cleaning the filter too, is it integral with the reservoir?
I take it I remove the reservoir and it's in there somewhere but I don't know anymore than that :)
I've bought plenty of fluid so I can flush the system out afterwards.

Cheers
Dave

[BigKriss]

buy a repair kit from shogun and follow the video for putting seals in. i've done the repair before.

[Knightmayre]

Hi there,
I've actually looked at the video before, I'm not over-confident about doing that myself. I've also got nowhere to actually put the pump while I replace the seals.
Thing is, I don't appear to be losing any fluid.
I had a car once that ate power steering fluid daily, couldn't find a leak anywhere and then I happened to look at the boots on the steering rack...
I started laughing like hell - They were enormous! Like 2 balloons lol.

I'm going to try and upload a video to YouTube later, probably easier that way.

[shogun]

I'd be interested in cleaning the filter too, is it integral with the reservoir? I take it I remove the reservoir and it's in there somewhere but I don't know anymore than that>>>> The one on my E32 750 built 1988 has a removable filter inside the reservoir. But I do not know your filter. Check on www.relaoem.com with your VIN
A 1990 E34 535 has 2 different power steering filters depending on if it has self levelling at the rear or not, if the car is with rear self levelling shocks, the reservoir looks like my one and there is a filter to be removed, the other one is apparently sealed and no removable filter is shown, see here
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=HD22-EUR-02-1990-E34-BMW-535i&mg=32
In the drawings you can also see which one is the suction hose and which one is the return hose
Nr. 11 and that is connected on the side of the reservoir, the other one at the bottom is the return hose and comes from the cooler item 1.

Probably your 535 is without self levelling shocks, usually that is used on E32 750 iL or E32 in long wheel base version.
Find the air leak where it sucks air. That is the first thing you have to fix, then check if the pump still makes noise or not. If not, no need to get a pump repair kit.
Do NOT drive when there is air in the system, that can damage the pump. When the seals are gone, the metal parts inside the pumps touch and can be damaged.

[632 Regal]

My 850 had self leveling but I could not remove the filter without breaking it so I took it off and cleaned it like the PT with a brush and mineral spirates. On my E34 I dont have self leveling but never had to get in there to look for a filter.

[Knightmayre]

I took the hose that's on the side of the reservoir as I saw it was damp looking and cut the top off it, was kinda hard putting it on along with a decent hose clamp.
Didn't see anything untowards inside but I cleaned it all up nicely (not that it was dirty really).
Anyways, I checked today and the top of that hose is now wet, so I reckon I'll buy a replacement and see how I go.

Cheers again
Dave

[shogun]

That hose is not a high pressure hose. The high pressure hoses must be able to handle 130 bar pressure, the ones on my 750 are laid out for 180 bar.
The low pressure hoses from to reservoir I have replaced with fuel/oil/bio-fuel resistant 20 bar hoses, so basically a good fuel hose designed for 20 bar, works well.
Even if on one side there is the connector crimped on, you can do that. Have done it on my E36 M3 as well as on the 750. See here, click in the index on the left M3 and scroll down to the pics
http://e32b12.blogspot.jp/
More http://njbmwcca.org/wp/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/NJBMWCCA_E36_POWER_STEERING_HOSE_Rev0.pdf
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1193648

[632 Regal]

I took the hose that's on the side of the reservoir as I saw it was damp looking and cut the top off it, was kinda hard putting it on along with a decent hose clamp.
Didn't see anything untowards inside but I cleaned it all up nicely (not that it was dirty really).
Anyways, I checked today and the top of that hose is now wet, so I reckon I'll buy a replacement and see how I go.

Cheers again
Dave

Another thought just came to me, if the fluid is contaminated the cavitation of the pump can cause air in the system. Try to change the fluids and then have another go at it.

[Knightmayre]

I had another look at the pump and found a bolt near where you tighten the belt which was slightly loose.
I tightened it up, and voila, no more noise! It's working perfectly again! Go figure!


I have another issue, not sure if I should create a new thread, but I have no low-down power at all.
If there is a gap in traffic and I try to go, the car just sits there- I have to hold the brake and give her some revs then she will take off.
I've almost had a few accidents because of it.

Once the car hits about 3000-3500 rpm then she takes off like a rocket, but anything below that a man on a bicycle can out-drag me.

I've also noticed that when I have the hood open and rev it manually she almost stalls out.
I thought that it might be the fitting from the air filter to the MAF as it was split and taped up, so I ended up fitting a cold air intake (which sounds jolly nice) but unfortunately the issue is still there.

Not sure how to proceed from here.

Thanks for all the help so far, you guys are the bomb!

Cheers
Dave

[shogun]

Is that car with automatic transmission? 535 should have a ZF 4HP22. Maybe it needs a valve body overhaul or just the screen filter in front of the flow regulation solenoid inside the valve body is dirty, see here
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2172589-4HP24-hard-shifting-solved
also check the trans fluid level http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2274913-Transmission-Fluid-Level-Checking-Procedure-and-Application-Chart

[632 Regal]

I had another look at the pump and found a bolt near where you tighten the belt which was slightly loose.
I tightened it up, and voila, no more noise! It's working perfectly again! Go figure!


I have another issue, not sure if I should create a new thread, but I have no low-down power at all.
If there is a gap in traffic and I try to go, the car just sits there- I have to hold the brake and give her some revs then she will take off.
I've almost had a few accidents because of it.

Once the car hits about 3000-3500 rpm then she takes off like a rocket, but anything below that a man on a bicycle can out-drag me.

I've also noticed that when I have the hood open and rev it manually she almost stalls out.
I thought that it might be the fitting from the air filter to the MAF as it was split and taped up, so I ended up fitting a cold air intake (which sounds jolly nice) but unfortunately the issue is still there.

Not sure how to proceed from here.

Thanks for all the help so far, you guys are the bomb!

Cheers
Dave

Having the same issue with this 530 I have. Make another thread, not like you would be spamming the board here...