Stereo upgrade advice wanted

[billy in slo]

I would like to upgrade my stereo system and maintain some sort of budget, say 1000.00. I am leaning toward the Clarion 535 head unit(has a nice ring to it) and has amber display. I have read all I can find in archives etc. and think the best way to go is to use the factory wiring but replace the amp and speakers, this might require using an amp w/built-in crossovers(like the factory amp) and using the 10 pairs of speaker leads from the trunk (this is where I get confused) and using componet(?) speakers. or do I just use a high quality amp and speakers with thier own on-board cross-overs? I apologize in advance for bastardizing the terminology and feel free to correct me. I'm old school on stereos (think 8-trrack). I can get the head unit for 175.00 which leaves say 225.00 for amp and 500.00 for speakers and 100.00 for misc.
car is a 90 535.

[Unregistered]

COOL....I recently made an upgrade to my 535i....I used an alpine head unit (cd/mp3)....mb quart speakers....kicker subwoofer....and a jl audio 5 channel amp. The first and most important step in e34 stereo upgrades is finding a GOOD instalation location. Don't go to a Best Buy/Circuit City type place. A GOOD instalation place that is familiar with BMW's will significantly affect the outcome of your upgrade. You probably already know this but....stay away from SONY when it comes to car stereo( I have good reasons for saying that.)

I don't know if you want a subwoofer or not....but since e34 have 10 speakers...I would recomend a 4 or 5 channel amp to power those speakers. Good amps have built in crossovers. Get component speakers, especially in the front. they are essential to sound quality. Replacing the amp and speakers is a must for an audio upgrade. Factory wiring???I've heard that the wiring in the e34's are sufficient and dont need to be replaced. When I got my upgrade they replaced all the wires...it sounds great. If it's not too much extra...it definatelty wouldnt hurt to replace the wires. ...If you have any more questions e-mail me.... sharpton_creations@hotmail.com

[Tiger]

Get ADS speaker... there are great deals on ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3075002464&category=32818

I am not the seller... wow... sweat speakers that I thought are not available anymore... must be those goodies leftovers.

[Phil M]

http://img14.photobucket.com/albums/v43/pmartin245/clarion.jpg

[Kennan]

With a $1000 budget, you can have a real nice system. If you want to stick with clarion, I'd jump to the 835mp which can be had for $220 shipped from thezeb.com which is an authorized clarion dealer.
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/clarion_stereo_receivers.html

I'd spend the bulk of your money on your front speakers, as they will have the most impact on your sound. The factory system is three-way, but a 2-way component system, which consists of a mid and tweeter, will be adequate and save a bit of money. Your e34 accepts 5.25" mids but can accomodate 6.5s if your willing to custom mount them in your kicks. You can either cut a hole in your kicks or simply mount them from behind. For rearfill, you can simply get coaxes or take them out all together to improve your imaging. Think about a concert, the band plays in front of you, and not from behind. Some suggestions,

$150 CDT classics 6.5"
$200 CDT HDs 5.25", both great speakers, which can be described as laid back and smooth.
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/CDT_Audio_Components.html

If you need rearfill, CDT has their full range two-ways on sale for $45
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/CDT_Audio_FullRange.html

Maybe some JL XRs on ebay for around $200
or some Kicker resolutions for around $150 on ebay.

I can give you more suggestions depending on your budget and listening tastes. I have some Image dynamic chameleons that I might sell for around $200 if your interested. Do a search on them as they are pretty highly regarded.

For a sub, try a Phoenix gold Titanium 10" for $69
http://www.cbrstereo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Ti10&Category_Code=PGSUBS
I believe the 12" is under a $100 as well. You don't need to be a basshead to enjoy a sub as a small sub can add depth to your music and increase your listening enjoyment.

For amps, a nice four channel can run your whole system. If you want rearfill, you can run it off your headunit.

Phoenix Gold Tantrum 600.4, 75x4, $280
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PHOT6004

Kicker 800.4, 100x4, $220 plus shipping
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3074406395&category=4950

Rockford Fosgate Power 551x, $260, (Pass on the punch series from RF)
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/rockfordfosgateamps.html

Headunit: $220
Components: $200
Sub: $100
Amp: 280
Total~ $800, need to buy installation accessories, a box for you sub, and pay for actual installation. I recommend you do the bulk of it on your own as most of it is pretty straight forward. Maybe get a shop to run you power and ground wires and possibly your speaker wires and do the rest on your own.

The components will come with a passive crossovers, but the amps will have crossovers as well. You will need to use both to get good sound. On your amp, you will send two channels to your components. You will set the amp crossover for highpass around 80hz, so 80hz and above will be sent to your components. The mid will play from 80hz to around 2-3khz and the tweeter will play the rest. The passive crossover that comes with your components will seperate the frequencies from your mid and tweet.

The other two channels will be sent to your sub. You need to lowpass at around 80hz so 80hz and under will be sent to your sub.

Let me know if you have other questions or need other suggestions on equipment to buy. Also if your open to buying used goods, you can get really high end amps and speakers for pretty cheap.

[Paul in NZ]

:D

[AZ_Jason_S]

Yeah, I agree with Kennan. I've bought the 835 and the CDT's from thezeb. They offer great prices on great products. Some deals stand out though, like the 835 and the CDT's. I don't have the CDT's installed yet because they are 6.5's and I am making some custom kick panels. So unfortunately, I can't offer an opinion on the combination. However, the Clarion sounds really good through my Infinitys. My latest thing with amps are the old PPI art series from the 90's. These can be had on ebay and rival anything made today(short of the real high end brax/Zapco/mcintosh stuff). However even used they are a little spendy and they are used. You can go with a 2-channel amp for the fronts and run the rears off the head-unit. I have my rear fill on a rockford amp but its turned down so low its almost off. In fact, I have been experimenting with running only my front speakers. My suggestion is Concentrate on your front sound stage first(good speakers and amp). Concentrate on your sub second, your rear fill last. Another suggestion for subs are the Elemental Designs.... I haven't heard one but everyone raves about them. They are only available from their website www.edesignaudio.com And then there is always JL Audio for subs probably the most used sub out there.

If you want to research peoples opinions go to www.sounddomain.com and search the forums. You can find out real fast what products are a hit, what products are duds and what products are middle of the road....






With a $1000 budget, you can have a real nice system. If you want to stick with clarion, I'd jump to the 835mp which can be had for $220 shipped from thezeb.com which is an authorized clarion dealer.
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/clarion_stereo_receivers.html

I'd spend the bulk of your money on your front speakers, as they will have the most impact on your sound. The factory system is three-way, but a 2-way component system, which consists of a mid and tweeter, will be adequate and save a bit of money. Your e34 accepts 5.25" mids but can accomodate 6.5s if your willing to custom mount them in your kicks. You can either cut a hole in your kicks or simply mount them from behind. For rearfill, you can simply get coaxes or take them out all together to improve your imaging. Think about a concert, the band plays in front of you, and not from behind. Some suggestions,

$150 CDT classics 6.5"
$200 CDT HDs 5.25", both great speakers, which can be described as laid back and smooth.
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/CDT_Audio_Components.html

If you need rearfill, CDT has their full range two-ways on sale for $45
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/CDT_Audio_FullRange.html

Maybe some JL XRs on ebay for around $200
or some Kicker resolutions for around $150 on ebay.

I can give you more suggestions depending on your budget and listening tastes. I have some Image dynamic chameleons that I might sell for around $200 if your interested. Do a search on them as they are pretty highly regarded.

For a sub, try a Phoenix gold Titanium 10" for $69
http://www.cbrstereo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Ti10&Category_Code=PGSUBS
I believe the 12" is under a $100 as well. You don't need to be a basshead to enjoy a sub as a small sub can add depth to your music and increase your listening enjoyment.

For amps, a nice four channel can run your whole system. If you want rearfill, you can run it off your headunit.

Phoenix Gold Tantrum 600.4, 75x4, $280
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PHOT6004

Kicker 800.4, 100x4, $220 plus shipping
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3074406395&category=4950

Rockford Fosgate Power 551x, $260, (Pass on the punch series from RF)
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/rockfordfosgateamps.html

Headunit: $220
Components: $200
Sub: $100
Amp: 280
Total~ $800, need to buy installation accessories, a box for you sub, and pay for actual installation. I recommend you do the bulk of it on your own as most of it is pretty straight forward. Maybe get a shop to run you power and ground wires and possibly your speaker wires and do the rest on your own.

The components will come with a passive crossovers, but the amps will have crossovers as well. You will need to use both to get good sound. On your amp, you will send two channels to your components. You will set the amp crossover for highpass around 80hz, so 80hz and above will be sent to your components. The mid will play from 80hz to around 2-3khz and the tweeter will play the rest. The passive crossover that comes with your components will seperate the frequencies from your mid and tweet.

The other two channels will be sent to your sub. You need to lowpass at around 80hz so 80hz and under will be sent to your sub.

Let me know if you have other questions or need other suggestions on equipment to buy. Also if your open to buying used goods, you can get really high end amps and speakers for pretty cheap.

[billy in slo]

No kidding, I feel like I should pay you.

[BOOZBA]

I have the same year & model as you, i installed a Nakamichi head unit cd-400 and
an Alpine 4 channel amp. No new speaker leads were required, I tied the amp into
the leads that were leaving the factory amp. All that was required was the running of
rca leads from the head unit to the new amp. All ten speakers work and no crossovers
are required. The speakers have their own crossovers

[Sheqel]

I have an 89 535i. Does mine have 10 speakers also? I can only think of 6 -- front splits, and rear speakers...

[billy in slo]

I have the same year & model as you, i installed a Nakamichi head unit cd-400 and
an Alpine 4 channel amp. No new speaker leads were required, I tied the amp into
the leads that were leaving the factory amp. All that was required was the running of
rca leads from the head unit to the new amp. All ten speakers work and no crossovers
are required. The speakers have their own crossovers

that is why there are 10 speaker leads out of the amp.

[billy in slo]

I have an 89 535i. Does mine have 10 speakers also? I can only think of 6 -- front splits, and rear speakers...

2 in kick panels, 2 in dash, 2 in "A" pillar, 2 under each grill on the rear deck for a total of 10 all driven from seperate leads out of the amp.

[TC535i]

2 in kick panels, 2 in dash, 2 in "A" pillar, 2 under each grill on the rear deck for a total of 10 all driven from seperate leads out of the amp.

10 leads off the amp, processed thru 4 internal crossovers. One for each "corner" of the car.

[BOOZBA]

I thought that too but it turns out that the speakers must have their own, nothing
but high end comming out of my tweaters, which are connected to my alpine amp
directly through the wires that used to leave the factory amp which i removed.

[TC535i]

I thought that too but it turns out that the speakers must have their own, nothing
but high end comming out of my tweaters, which are connected to my alpine amp
directly through the wires that used to leave the factory amp which i removed.

They don't. Check your crossover on the amp... Plus, those are tiny speakers. They're not gonna play anything but high end anyways...

[dunderchief]

Some things that haven't been mentioned yet that are worth doing so. One, RCA's will need to be run from the head unit if you plan on running an aftermarket amp. The stock setup uses a form of high level input that will not be compatible (well it will be kind of, with some amps, but it is a serious compromise). The CDT HD's are an excellent choice, especially for the price. I'd almost choose them over the Chameleons (sorry Keanan). I've heard both, the Chameleons have more midbass output and extend a little deeper, but the HD's have a smoother response through the midrange. I will give the edge to the ID tweeters that come with the Cham. set as they are very nice. If you're looking to purchase everything from one place theZeb is an excellent place to do it. Also definately check out elemental Designs. I've used their subs and their amps and both have impressed me very much. The avionixx amps are some of the best value for the money out there.

[billy in slo]

Some things that haven't been mentioned yet that are worth doing so. One, RCA's will need to be run from the head unit if you plan on running an aftermarket amp. The stock setup uses a form of high level input that will not be compatible (well it will be kind of, with some amps, but it is a serious compromise). The CDT HD's are an excellent choice, especially for the price. I'd almost choose them over the Chameleons (sorry Keanan). I've heard both, the Chameleons have more midbass output and extend a little deeper, but the HD's have a smoother response through the midrange. I will give the edge to the ID tweeters that come with the Cham. set as they are very nice. If you're looking to purchase everything from one place theZeb is an excellent place to do it. Also definately check out elemental Designs. I've used their subs and their amps and both have impressed me very much. The avionixx amps are some of the best value for the money out there.

I went to a local shop(been around for 21 years) and listened to various set-ups and combinations and deciced on PPI 5.25" components up front with a sony M730 head unit and a Viper 550.6 6 channel amp and CDT 5.2 for rear fill. Total system installed w/lifetime guarantee for my 1000.00 budget. Maybe not my first choice but it sounded very nice and the head unit is very stealthy when closed, going for the install on Mon.
Thanks for all the great advice, quite overwelming when one starts looking at all the choices and combinations, comes down to service and what sounds good to the buyer (me).

[bimmer253]

I have a Pioneer DEHP7300 CD player, very very nice, lots of features, extremely easy to use, and a perfect fit for the E34. It works really well and looks great, my only problem with it is the colors are blue, now this isn't a big problem since blue is my favorite color, but just doesn't really match the BMW red, still looks good in my opinion. That cost $300. Then, i have two 10" 800 watt jensen subs, in a box with plexi glass that has Jensen ettched in, and since my deck is blue, i installed blue neon lights in the box. That cost $120. Then, i bought an 800watt Legacy amp, now it is the smallest, or the best amp, but it does the job, and only cost me $70. I love my setup, sounds gerat, looks great, and cost me under $500.
Here is a link to the pictures of my set up(sorry about the quality, i don't really have the best digital camera, but you get the basic idea)
http://ryan.cianchette.com/view_album.php?page=1

[bimmer253]

sorry wrong address, here ya go- http://ryan.cianchette.com/stereo

[Kennan]

I went to a local shop(been around for 21 years) and listened to various set-ups and combinations and deciced on PPI 5.25" components up front with a sony M730 head unit and a Viper 550.6 6 channel amp and CDT 5.2 for rear fill. Total system installed w/lifetime guarantee for my 1000.00 budget. Maybe not my first choice but it sounded very nice and the head unit is very stealthy when closed, going for the install on Mon.
Thanks for all the great advice, quite overwelming when one starts looking at all the choices and combinations, comes down to service and what sounds good to the buyer (me).

Other than some older Sony gear, in car audio, Sony should be avoided. If your worried about warranty then I understand buying at a shop, but you do not get your money's worth as compared to buying on the internet. There are authorized dealers online if warranty is an issue. Also if your not one to install on your own, the same shop would probably install outside equipment and I believe anything they install comes with the guarantee.

[billy in slo]

Other than some older Sony gear, in car audio, Sony should be avoided. If your worried about warranty then I understand buying at a shop, but you do not get your money's worth as compared to buying on the internet. There are authorized dealers online if warranty is an issue. Also if your not one to install on your own, the same shop would probably install outside equipment and I believe anything they install comes with the guarantee.
Ya, I hear what your saying, and this guy said he would install my gear and I did compare his prices to internet prices and found him to be very close (ex. PPI =100.00, CDT's = 60.00, Viper amp 300.00 etc.) It is last years gear but that's O.K. with me. The Sony head unit is my biggest concern. Do you have any specifics on why to avoid them? It is a higher end unit but...

[jplacson]

Reviving an old thread... are ADS speakers better than MB Quart? I'm considering their 235is... or MB Quart's Reference 213 speakers.

[Elekta]

Here's my upgrade (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=2379&page=2&pp=10&highlight=upgrade)

I kept the oem head unit and added the pioneer cd player and replaced everything else. Got an indy who owns and loves bmws to do the installation and am very pleased. I added a self amped sub with quick connects for easy removal and is all I needed. The eq in the glove box allows me to regulate the sub which is great, and I can plug in any external source ipod or whatever in the future.

This keeps me OEM on the outside and hidden super upgrade where it's needed. The only head unit I would buy would be the Nakamichi 400 as it really doesn't detract from the bmw aesthetics which were most important to me. I would hate any blue light show going on while everything else is amber.

came in right at $1000 with lifetime warranty on speakers and install.

[Incantation]

well.. it seems that you have a lot of advice coming from different people. 1000 bucks will get you a nice entry level system. one concern i would have is that you will not have enough power for a sub to get it to pump enough volume from the trunk.. you can solve this by porting the box through the back dash (have to cut out holes, or through the ski hole.

you should also tear all the insulation from the back firewall.. it muffles the bass big time.


as far as setup is concerned, don't waste your money on back speakers; you want the sound stage up front. get a nice pair of:

6.5"components for the front with 1" in dash (easy to wire vs door)
10-12" sub with box

and one nice 4 channel amp to power them. you can bridge the back two channels to power the sub.

very simple.. and just so you know the factory wiring is a mess.. get a nice RCA from the head unit to the amp and some nice fat wires for the sub and speakers. also remember at least a 4-gauge power AND ground wire for the amp.

if you'd like i can take some photos of my setup for you