Interior Project

[JoeS]

I started my interior overhaul project today. I will be "colorplusing" a replacement set of seats ( front and back), redoing the headliner, and replacing some cracked burl wood pieces. I was amazed how the seat paint just wipes right off with laquer thinner. The first wipe down gets about %60 of it off. The remainng takes some rubbin' It is just amazing how soft the leather is once the 12 year old paint is off there. It is going to take forever to get the seats stripped down in order to hydrate them with the leather oil.

Joe

[Mike 'n AZ]

The color on the leather in a BMW is painted on? If so, what color is it naturally underneith? -- Mike

[George M]

Good work Joe,
If you have a chance, please take pictures and provide a brief write up for the group would you? You have already provided good information on declaring that the leather underneath is still subtle after stripping off the old paint like thick opaque dye that BMW uses. I too need to tackle my front seats and will likely use Colorplus on Bill's recommendation. Do you have much cracking in the leather? If so, presume some of the cracking dissipated by stripping off the old thick dye but am interested in the crack filling process as well.
Thanks and Good Luck,
George

[-Joes]

I will take some pics along the way.
95% of the cracks are in the leather paint. So far I have one crack in the leather. I am interested to see if the re-hydration step provides any remedy.
All I know is it is going to take a long time to prep the seats. George if you are going to under take this effort, be sure to talk to Joanne at Colorplus. She is great lady and will answer all your questions. She provided me with a write that one of her customers did after he completed a redo on hs L6. I should scan it in and post it. He notes some good tricks.

Joe

[-joes]

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[ryan roopnarine]

uh uo....i thought that stuff was dirt, didn't know it was the dye that was being pulled up. i usually clean it with the soap until the cloth stops pulling "black" up, then massage in conditioner until it won't take , let it soak in, then buff out until the cloth stops pulling up black.....my dye doesn't seem to be deterioriating, either in spite of this, or as intended. any suggestions as to how i need to be cleaning and conditioning?

[George M]

it would be great Joe if some point you could scan and post that procedure. Keep us posted and thanks for the tips.
George

[aussie 540i]

after vacuming well (particularly in between the joins)

i recommend cleaning with luke warm water mixed with wool wash or any mild detergent that does not contain any bleach or whitener, but wool wash is best, wipe over the seats paying particular attention not to "wet" the stitching. then wipe immediately dry.

if the leather is showing signs of "aging" use a soft cotton cloth and rub/wipe "vasoline" over the seats and allow to sit for about 5 minutes. using a flannel or similar cloth wipe of the excess and "buff" the seats with a soft cloth by hand.

if the seats are "okay" after cleaning instead of using "vasoline"..... wipe the seats over in a cloth lightly moistened with baby oil (johnsons if available) or "cussens" mild oil... again leave for about 5 minutes and wipe of the excess using a flannell cloth and buff by hand witha soft cotton cloth.

p.s. i also use the baby oil for conditioning dash, door trims etc, but be sure to wipe excess of well!!! it does not "soak" in like with leather, the aim is to leave a "protective" layer on the surface of the textile which also gives a nice "shiney" finish.

these cheaply purshased everyday products do the job as well as any car, leather cleaning or conditioner that i have ever seen or used and at a fraction of the cost.


hope this helps

[aussie 540i]

just an afterthought.....

if you come across any "stains" during the cleaning process i recommend that any ink or dirt type stain marks or "spots" of be rubbed very lightly with a cloth dipped in a clear spirit, like methylated, pure alcohol or (even vodka if need be ...lol) do not use mineral turpentine (it is oily and will spread the stain/mark) after lightly rubbing the stain with the chosen clear spirit, immediately wipe over with a clean damp cloth..

for glue/gum type residue on the leather (or vinyl for that matter), rub vigourously with a cloth soaked in eucalyptus oil and the problem mark should lift from the surface of the textile. once this is achieved wipe the surface clean and apply a lightly dampened baby oil cloth to the area, allow to soak in and buff around the area.

note that the use of both "cleaning" products "dries" leather out , it is recommended to "rejuvinate" the leather with baby oil after cleaning to help maintain suppleness and anti drying of the leather..

hope this is helpful,

[Bill R.]

stripped, even if they don't look like much, otherwise they will really show when the new coating is applied... and you probably already know but the better job you do with the sandpaper the better it will absorb the conditioner...




I will take some pics along the way.
95% of the cracks are in the leather paint. So far I have one crack in the leather. I am interested to see if the re-hydration step provides any remedy.
All I know is it is going to take a long time to prep the seats. George if you are going to under take this effort, be sure to talk to Joanne at Colorplus. She is great lady and will answer all your questions. She provided me with a write that one of her customers did after he completed a redo on hs L6. I should scan it in and post it. He notes some good tricks.

Joe

[aussie 540i]

thats great advise Bill, the smoother you finish it off the better it will look.... but remember that you only have one crack in the leather so concentrate on that area mainly/only (take your time and make it real fine). my advice (with all due respect) is not to go too far or use too course sandpaper or you will end up with suede seats....