OT: Any roadies (cyclists) here? I need some advice...

[billb]

Bought a 2001 Giant OCR3 last October to get back on the bike some. Upgraded from my '86 Schwinn Traveler (complete with downtube shifters and 27" wheels...). I've been averaging 60+ miles/week on local roads, and I think I'm going to stick with cycling. It's great therapy (not to mention exercise!) I'm finding that I like the road geometry of the OCR, and it is an easy bike to ride, but the components suck. I paid ~$400 for the bike, and got my money's worth for sure. But, are there bikes that are a step up from entry level that anyone would recommend? I'm on a Giant size medium, and am not the typical cyclist physique (I'm a tad on the heavy side at 175#). My pace on local roads is about 18-19mph average, with average rides of about 2 hours, 30-35 miles or so.

Just curious what I should be looking for next. I see lots of Treks, Orbeas, Kleins, Colnagos, and some Giant TCRs out there, not too many folks keep their OCRs for long, even the 1s. My investment would be for 3-5 years minimum.


Thanks for any and all advice.

[Scott H]

If you keep this up, by the time you are ready for another bike, you will be riding stronger, faster and longer.....

[Dave M]

I have to do this in two haves as I have probs with big posts. Although no longer at the top of my form (far from it now), I was a competitive racer for 10 years in Canada before realizing that it wouldn't pay the bills forever (horrible pension plan as well) and it was taking a toll on my body (broken vertebrae and such). I packed it in and went to school, but learned so much in my years, great times. There are plenty of options out there right now and it can be overwhelming. After starting to ride again after years off the bike, things got lighter, wheels got stronger and most of all, everything got more expensive. But, if you're serious about riding, which I hope you are, you'll want a material that will last. I’ve ridden every material out there and carbon is the all around champ. Its light, its stiff, its comfy and it will outlast aluminum (appears to be a popular choice for its weight savings these days). I went through a bike each season (>50 races and >25000km a year takes its toll) and noticed aluminum weakening by august.

[Dave M]

I now ride a Trek Postal bike acquired through old ‘connections’ and love it. As proper sizing makes a huge difference, especially over 100 miles, get a frame measured to the nearest cm or two (the only downside to some of Treks retail bikes are they are measured in two cm increments) and get the stem size and handlebars and seat adjusted properly (not to assume you aren’t a sizing guru and have your Giant dialed in). Many books on the subject and many tools in bike shops available. I figured my dimensions and bike specs when I was 15 years old and have only tweeked them slightly in 16 years.

[Dave M]

So, I haven’t helped you decide on a brand, but, if I may have an opinion, I hold that it is much less important than the ability to fit properly and the material itself. Sorry for rambling, it’s a passion of mine I am re-discovering. In fact, heres a pic of me at my first national championships in 7 years this summer(blue guy). Keep it up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/dave_macisaac/Misc/20025.jpg

[Patrick]

After having been away from road cycling for a long time I'm going to pull the trigger on buying a roadbike pretty soon. Being way too anal I have been looking at options now for way longer than I care to admit.
About the only way I can justify buying something of quality (which means a decent frame and at least Ultegra components and under 18lbs.) is to buy it used. You didn't mention a budget so I'm just assuming being an E34 owner you want a lot of value for your $.:)
You didn't mention a budget but I would try to buy the best bike you can justify spending the $ on. Dave's right, carbon is the **** if you can afford it. Titanium would be my next choice. I recently test rode a 2000 LeMond titanium Victoire in good shape, seller was asking $1300, I'm thinking of offering him $1000 but think I can find something newer with better value if I spend a bit more. Used (search eBay under "sporting goods," "cycling," "roadbikes and parts," "complete bikes.") bikes are plentiful and the depreciation is hard in most cases. If you're willing to spend $1500 for used you'll find almost too many choices. Beyond that amount you can have anything you want practically. For value in 'used' aluminum I think the 2002/3 Specialized Allez Comp, or Pro (even better componentry), and the Felt F35 or F45 has good value. In 'new' Supergo has their housebrand Scattante carbon fiber frame with Ultegra for about $1500, and minus the seatpost, it gets decent reviews on roadbike review. If you find something you like look it up on http://www.roadbikereview.com/ and see if it's reviewed favorably.
I hope some of this info helps. Keep us posted on what you decided on.

[TimGinCentralNJ]

...and I'm approx 6' 3" and weigh around 205 (not your 'typical' cyclist build either). I ride with a bunch of IT guys with fat wallets, who just "had to" have the then-top-o-the-line carbon fiber Trek 5200's and 5500's. My 2200 is aluminum, and is fine for a novice to intermediate skill level (cost me about $1500 total). I log typically a couple thousand miles a year, and I'll probably never get rid of it. I've ridden the 5500, and especially at about 3500-3700 beans (+/-), I personally found it had too much flex (ok, AND I couldn't afford it). It's obviously important to have decent, reliable equipment, but a 3500 frame ain't gonna' make you a better rider :)

I've seen Trek 2200's for sale on eBay for a decent price.

Hope that helps,
Tim G.


Bought a 2001 Giant OCR3 last October to get back on the bike some. Upgraded from my '86 Schwinn Traveler (complete with downtube shifters and 27" wheels...). I've been averaging 60+ miles/week on local roads, and I think I'm going to stick with cycling. It's great therapy (not to mention exercise!) I'm finding that I like the road geometry of the OCR, and it is an easy bike to ride, but the components suck. I paid ~$400 for the bike, and got my money's worth for sure. But, are there bikes that are a step up from entry level that anyone would recommend? I'm on a Giant size medium, and am not the typical cyclist physique (I'm a tad on the heavy side at 175#). My pace on local roads is about 18-19mph average, with average rides of about 2 hours, 30-35 miles or so.

Just curious what I should be looking for next. I see lots of Treks, Orbeas, Kleins, Colnagos, and some Giant TCRs out there, not too many folks keep their OCRs for long, even the 1s. My investment would be for 3-5 years minimum.


Thanks for any and all advice.

[Hector]

and I have often considered to get myself a road bike. I own a '98 GT LTS-3 mounatin bike but if you're serious, I can say a few things in a nutshell about road bikes as some of my friends who mountain bike also road bike. Any decent brand of bike should come with a lifetime guarantee on the frame with the frame weighing 3 lbs. It should have at least Shimano 105 components. The big thing will be to ride it. Aluminum bikes can feel very stiff, steel will feel softer. Two good ways to check the stiffness are to ride over big bumps sitting on the seat, and to pedal hard standing up - you can feel a flexible bike flexing as you pedal. There are slightly varying styles: touring, race and criterium. Touring bikes will be heavier and feel softer than the other 2 (wider tires, smaller head tube angle, more rake on the front fork). I don't know the type of ride you do but wieght is an issue when going uphill. Race and criterium should weigh about same, but the criterium will feel more responsive (higher head tube angle, less rake). This will be most obvious when trying to ride without any hands. A touring bike will be stable and straight. A racing bike may feel a little unstable and the front wheel will oscillate as you shift more weight to the back tire. A criterium bike will almost be impossible to ride very far without hands on the bars. HTH

[SharkmanBMW]

I have super deals on Mavic wheels in Canada, Mavic is one of the best bicycle wheel and hub manufacturers in the world.
If any of you are interested I am able to get you great pricing with full warranties.....
I used to be the service manager for mavic/gary fisher/lemond bicycles (trek) in canada.
We saw a lot of carbon frames come back cracked but it was usually due to a crash and impact of some kind... you cannot beat their lightness!

[warton]

So, I haven’t helped you decide on a brand, but, if I may have an opinion, I hold that it is much less important than the ability to fit properly and the material itself. Sorry for rambling, it’s a passion of mine I am re-discovering. In fact, heres a pic of me at my first national championships in 7 years this summer(blue guy). Keep it up.
Never have raced, though I've logged a lot of miles with racer types like you. ;-) I think there's lots of good advice in this thread. Random thoughts based on my experience..............

- used is a good way to get a very nice bike for "mid-range" kinds of money, but you have to know your bikes pretty well.
- Ultegra is great, but I love Dura Ace. It's very quick and very reliable
- Fit is definitely important, critical in fact as Dave says.
- Ti is a really nice frame material. I own steel, Al, and Ti. I've put miles in on carbon bikes, but 1) not enough to get used to the feeling and 2) not on the newer framesets.
- I've been riding a Litespeed Catalyst w/DuraAce for ~4 years with basically no upgrades. Which is to say, unless you're racing, once you get a good bike IMO it should be able to last you for a long time.
- Image means a lot in the cycling world. Decide what it means to you before you purchase.

Part of the problem with modern life is the excess of choices. There are way too many bikes to try out, as this (very) partial list of road-bike manufacturers shows: Basso, Bianchi, Cervelo, Cinelli, Colnago, CoMotion, 'Dale, Devinci, Felt, Fuji, Giant, Jamis, K2, Kestrel, KHS, Klein, Kona, LandShark, LeMond, Litespeed, Look, Marin, Masi, Merckx, Merlin ;-), Orbea, Pinarello, Schwinn, Serotta, Seven, Specialized, Trek, Viner.

There is no "one right bike" IMO; any of several would be great to own. I'd say go do some test rides and find the bike that fits and is the most 'inspiring' to ride.

"Fun bike":
http://www.warton.org/images/Bike/Litespeed.jpg

Commuter:
http://www.warton.org/images/Misc/Cross.jpg

Peter

[rickm]

I'm biased, I love Cannondale bikes. Raced one of their road bikes for 3 years until some ******* in a caddy cut me off while riding in the mountains. :P

The DuraAce groupo rules, there is nothing like it. It's been around a while and keeps getting better.

As for steel/al/carbon, ride all of them. I rode a Trek carbon when they first came out, it was ok...didn't have the feel that my Cannondale of the time did. WAY back when they had some problems, sometimes the tubes came "unglued" but that was quickly resolved. The Cannondales have always been stiff but you get used to it after a while. I now ride a Cannondale mtn bike, even with me being 41 and not as light as I was it's still a decent ride. I love feeling the road beneath me.

Bill, you're missing some kick ass rain down here in eastern NC.

Rick, stuck in Greenville until ?

[aussie540i]

I'm biased, I love Cannondale bikes. Raced one of their road bikes for 3 years until some ******* in a caddy cut me off while riding in the mountains. :P

The DuraAce groupo rules, there is nothing like it. It's been around a while and keeps getting better.

As for steel/al/carbon, ride all of them. I rode a Trek carbon when they first came out, it was ok...didn't have the feel that my Cannondale of the time did. WAY back when they had some problems, sometimes the tubes came "unglued" but that was quickly resolved. The Cannondales have always been stiff but you get used to it after a while. I now ride a Cannondale mtn bike, even with me being 41 and not as light as I was it's still a decent ride. I love feeling the road beneath me.

Bill, you're missing some kick ass rain down here in eastern NC.

Rick, stuck in Greenville until ?
Hi , i know nothing about this but i have friends who sure do and they all agree with Rick... Cannondale are THE best, these guys also race and go in mind and body punishing events using them as well ... i did have a ride on one of these and for what its worth it felt damn good on the road... made my 10 speed moutain bike feel like a Hummer lol

[Hector]

up on a steep fire road or single track if I didn't have my 18 gear mtn bike. I think my drivetrain has a 22-32-42 crankset and 12-32 or 12-28 cassette and considering I got a good granny gear sometimes on a mederately steep hill I suck wind. Guess need to ride more...


Hi , i know nothing about this but i have friends who sure do and they all agree with Rick... Cannondale are THE best, these guys also race and go in mind and body punishing events using them as well ... i did have a ride on one of these and for what its worth it felt damn good on the road... made my 10 speed moutain bike feel like a Hummer lol

[Dave M]

Assuming you're referring to SC, I spent three months a year training with the Ontario Provincial team out of Greenville and a State Park I forget the name of near Ceasars Head (forgive the spelling, its been a while). I did a few group rides to the bakery (Saluda???) and plenty with Rich Hincapie and Skip Spangenberg (again forgive spelling if you know him). If you've been in the cycling scene for a while you may also know the Sullivans, they used to help run the club and board riders from everywhere (I used to stay with them when the team went home). Anyhow, just wanted to say I loved my time down there, everyone was friendly and the riding was awesome.
And yes, I agree Cannondale makes a great frame, rode two of them in the mid 90s, lightest bikes at the time, but I still hold that they were weaker at the end of a season and returned well used to the sponsor.
Dave M

[Dave M]

absolutely right with the abundance of competant bikes out there. Nice rides you got there, especially the cross bike. When I started riding in the late eighties, mountain bikes weren't as popular and we raced cross each fall/winter on just about anything we could find. Painfull sport. Betcha that Cannondale would cook on a nice piece of fire road and swing up to the shoulders effortlessly.
I didn't mention Ti as I only spent a bit of time on it and never had a Ti bike sponsor or one willing to shell the $$ for a bike to be ridden one season. Ti is considered a lifetime material and it would be a shame to give it back in october. Carbon is almost a lifetime if you don't plan on crashing 'too hard'. Ti will withstand abuse a lot better. So if Bill has deep pockets and wants a long lasting, light weight, go Ti.

[aussie540i]

i dont ride the bike.... i drive the E34 LOL...

[rickm]

Greenville NC, on the east coast. I normally live near Asheville but was reassigned here to help them get their network to where it's supposed to be (kicking myself in the butt for taking this assignment). Lots of nice roads here though you're sharing them with logging trucks.

Riding in the mountains of NC is fun, I used to ride up behind the Grove Park Inn then on the parkway for a while. The views are great, the roads are passable. \

Hincapie (sp) I think is leading the Olympic squad since Lance isn't up for it. Great rider. Don't know him, he came along after my time. I rode until July 16, 1987 when I was on my way to go surf one day and a drunk driver pulled in front of me. Totalled the car, my ankles, my knees. No bike/surf/swimming for about 3 months. I want to find that guy and put a round in his head. :P

We used to cross our roadbikes....I bought a base Cannondale (600), put some heavier rims, mtn bike bars and swapped out the brakes for mtny stuff. It was a blast, especially riding town the logging roads here while using the tri bars I had. :D I later trashed that frame, I think it was way past it's due.

TI would be nice, so would carbon. I still love aluminum, at least after you trash it you can recycle it. :)

Back to work, woohoo.

[warton]

absolutely right with the abundance of competant bikes out there. Nice rides you got there, especially the cross bike. When I started riding in the late eighties, mountain bikes weren't as popular and we raced cross each fall/winter on just about anything we could find. Painfull sport. Betcha that Cannondale would cook on a nice piece of fire road and swing up to the shoulders effortlessly.
I didn't mention Ti as I only spent a bit of time on it and never had a Ti bike sponsor or one willing to shell the $$ for a bike to be ridden one season. Ti is considered a lifetime material and it would be a shame to give it back in october. Carbon is almost a lifetime if you don't plan on crashing 'too hard'. Ti will withstand abuse a lot better. So if Bill has deep pockets and wants a long lasting, light weight, go Ti.
More shots of the Litespeed. These are pretty close to magazine quality, IMO...
http://www.warton.org/images/Bike/litespeed_sm.jpg
http://www.warton.org/images/Bike/zipp_hub_sm.jpg
http://www.warton.org/images/Bike/look_hsc_sm.jpg

[winfred]

More shots of the Litespeed. These are pretty close to magazine quality, IMO...
http://www.warton.org/images/Bike/litespeed_sm.jpg
http://www.warton.org/images/Bike/zipp_hub_sm.jpg
http://www.warton.org/images/Bike/look_hsc_sm.jpg

[Al Gray]

I like to ride a half hour to an hour a day (8 to 16 miles) depending on my time and work schedule. I am still riding my 1974 Peugot that I recently upgraded to a 14 speed and bought some new aluminum rims. I really want to treat myself to a nice light road bike. I have been eyeing the Fuji Roubaix that has carbon fiber front forks and rear stays that connect to the back wheel. Fuji gives you a lot more bang for the buck with Shimano Ultegra and 105 components. South Jersey where I ride is mostly flat with some gentle hills and the Fuji has 27 speeds, more than enough for my needs. The bike is light at about 17 pounds and the best price I have seen for the 2004 model is $1099. This bike for me would be a huge step up but still affordable. There are lower entry Fuji and Trek bikes but the components don't hold up as well if you are going to do a fair amount of riding. Its like they say " you can pay me now or pay me later". If you buy a cheap bike it isn't going to hold up and will require constant adjustment and/or new parts. The Fuji Roubaix is the one I would recommend. Fitted properly you would be able to attain your road speeds and more and get a great workout. Check it out on Fugi's website at www.fujibikes.com. Hope my two cents helps you. Good riding!

[winfred]

i am all leftout with my wally world huffy mountain bike

that i got on clearence

[Hector]

a Montgomery-Ward Columbia 10-speed. Man, this bike was brutal to my jewels...