Question on Socket size For Big nut on Harmonic Balancer

[rommel]

Hi Guys,
I just experienced my 1st major problem on my M30. The chain tensioner broke at the top. I'm in the process of removing the front covers and I'm at the Big nut on the harmonic balancer. I've removed the radiator for more room. I hope that I don't have to remove the AC condenser because it was recently converted to R134, new drier, R134 pressure switch,adapters, oil, & freon. Will I be able to remove this nut with a BIG wrench or do I have to remove the condenser and use an impact wrench? Is this nut a right hand thread or left?

1. Socket Size
2. BIG wrench or Impact Wrench
3. Right/Left hand thread

Thanks guys. Because of this forum, Bruno's site, and BMA I'm now at 358K miles. I'm going for a lot more.

[Mr Project]

36mm. (found by searching)

I believe the spec is around 320 lb/ft. Would require a serious impact, possibly a 3/4" drive unit. There is a special BMW tool made to hold the engine from rotating during removal/installation of the nut, it runs around $130 (again, in the search)

[winfred]

it takes a serious 3/4 impact, i've seen the special tool's wound up like a spring


36mm. (found by searching)

I believe the spec is around 320 lb/ft. Would require a serious impact, possibly a 3/4" drive unit. There is a special BMW tool made to hold the engine from rotating during removal/installation of the nut, it runs around $130 (again, in the search)

[rommel]

I have a buddy that has a 3/4 impact wrench with 800 lbs torque


36mm. (found by searching)

I believe the spec is around 320 lb/ft. Would require a serious impact, possibly a 3/4" drive unit. There is a special BMW tool made to hold the engine from rotating during removal/installation of the nut, it runs around $130 (again, in the search)

[Hector]

between nut and AC condenser unless you remove the condenser. Also, if you are able to use the wrench, get a twin hammer one as others will not be up to snuff, and don't forget to get an impact socket. I successfully removed the 36 mm nut with breaker bar and cheater bar combo, and with the tool to lock the crankshaft. It all went smoothly. Thread is left-handed as you view the engine from the front.




Hi Guys,
I just experienced my 1st major problem on my M30. The chain tensioner broke at the top. I'm in the process of removing the front covers and I'm at the Big nut on the harmonic balancer. I've removed the radiator for more room. I hope that I don't have to remove the AC condenser because it was recently converted to R134, new drier, R134 pressure switch,adapters, oil, & freon. Will I be able to remove this nut with a BIG wrench or do I have to remove the condenser and use an impact wrench? Is this nut a right hand thread or left?

1. Socket Size
2. BIG wrench or Impact Wrench
3. Right/Left hand thread

Thanks guys. Because of this forum, Bruno's site, and BMA I'm now at 358K miles. I'm going for a lot more.

[rommel]

between nut and AC condenser unless you remove the condenser. Also, if you are able to use the wrench, get a twin hammer one as others will not be up to snuff, and don't forget to get an impact socket. I successfully removed the 36 mm nut with breaker bar and cheater bar combo, and with the tool to lock the crankshaft. It all went smoothly. Thread is left-handed as you view the engine from the front.

[rommel]

Also, is this the right tool?




between nut and AC condenser unless you remove the condenser. Also, if you are able to use the wrench, get a twin hammer one as others will not be up to snuff, and don't forget to get an impact socket. I successfully removed the 36 mm nut with breaker bar and cheater bar combo, and with the tool to lock the crankshaft. It all went smoothly. Thread is left-handed as you view the engine from the front.

[Bellicose Right Winger]

I got the balancer nut off my '80 528i using a 3/4" breaker bar and socket. I don't remember socket size though. Breaker bar was Snap-On monster.... must have been 48" long. Be sure you put a piece of plywood in front of your condenser if you go this route. I made a locking device for flex plate to keep crank from turning. If I had to do it over again I'd try to bolt a piece of angle to harmonic balancer and have it rest on ground to prevent rotation. I'm sure the crank was flexing by locking it at flywheel end. My recollection is It's a right hand thread, but I'll defer to Hector's judgement, he's likely done this more recently then me. Sorry for the confusion.

Paul Shovestul



Hi Guys,
I just experienced my 1st major problem on my M30. The chain tensioner broke at the top. I'm in the process of removing the front covers and I'm at the Big nut on the harmonic balancer. I've removed the radiator for more room. I hope that I don't have to remove the AC condenser because it was recently converted to R134, new drier, R134 pressure switch,adapters, oil, & freon. Will I be able to remove this nut with a BIG wrench or do I have to remove the condenser and use an impact wrench? Is this nut a right hand thread or left?

1. Socket Size
2. BIG wrench or Impact Wrench
3. Right/Left hand thread

Thanks guys. Because of this forum, Bruno's site, and BMA I'm now at 358K miles. I'm going for a lot more.

[Hector]

here

http://www.geocities.com/frothlikn/classic_tan2.html

[Hector]

of the high miles, I'd check the crankshaft sprocket. If you decide to change it, then I'd change the camshaft and oil pump sprockets as well and start with a clean slate.

Remove in this order: pulley, harmonic balancer/vibration damper, nut and hub.


here

http://www.geocities.com/frothlikn/classic_tan2.html

[rommel]

of the high miles, I'd check the crankshaft sprocket. If you decide to change it, then I'd change the camshaft and oil pump sprockets as well and start with a clean slate.

Remove in this order: pulley, harmonic balancer/vibration damper, nut and hub.

[rommel]

I got the balancer nut off my '80 528i using a 3/4" breaker bar and socket. I don't remember socket size though. Breaker bar was Snap-On monster.... must have been 48" long. Be sure you put a piece of plywood in front of your condenser if you go this route. I made a locking device for flex plate to keep crank from turning. If I had to do it over again I'd try to bolt a piece of angle to harmonic balancer and have it rest on ground to prevent rotation. I'm sure the crank was flexing by locking it at flywheel end. My recollection is It's a right hand thread, but I'll defer to Hector's judgement, he's likely done this more recently then me. Sorry for the confusion.

Paul Shovestul

[rommel]

..........the pulley and balancer comes off before the nut?

[Bellicose Right Winger]

Correct, the pulley and balancer are attached to the hub with 6 or 8 bolts. The hub is held onto crank with the nut, just like the exploded view posted above.

Paul Shovestul



..........the pulley and balancer comes off before the nut?

[winfred]

that's the one, i've seen a few of those wound up and twisted like a spring


here

http://www.geocities.com/frothlikn/classic_tan2.html