BAYEMVAY
08-31-2004, 04:16 PM
Symptoms:
Cold start problem, very rare but still frustrating when it happens
Loss of power during acceleration
Transmission problems, mainly unusual shift points, up and down
Hunting idle
Stomp test not working
Performed:
1. Replaced plugs with OEM Bosch (were Autolite - last change date unknown)
2. Replaced distributor and rotor
3. Cleaned all spark plug wires and connectors at both ends
4. Replaced fuel filter and air filter
5. Drained transmission fluid (dipstick level well above 'max' indication) and refilled to proper level. Still need to replace the AT filter - I couldn't get the dipstick collar nut loose last time.
6. TPS did not 'click' when throttle at idle position. TPS not adjusted properly. TPS did not make connection at wide-open-throttle (WOT) position. TPS opened carefully, cleaned out oil and gunk, resoldered electrical connections, sprayed with liberal amounts of contact cleaner, and WOT contact was verified. Re-installed, adjusted for idle position microswitch 'click' on throttle body.
7. ICV cleaned, rotation inside cylinder verified manually. ICV terminal resistances measure per the spec. ICV connector voltage checks; center to (-) = battery voltage. OK, center to one side = 9.5V (should be about 10V). OK, center to other side = 3.5V (should be about 10V) FAIL.
Results:
Somewhere in steps 1 - 4, my loss of power at acceleration vanished and the idle was improved as well. I haven't had a cold start problem in weeks. Step 5 made a drastic improvement in the operation of the transmission. Step 6 resulted in better throttle response and my stomp test is working - No fault codes (woo-hoo).
Summary:
Ahh, step 7. My idle is good, but not great. Per the manual, I disconnected the connector for the ICV with the engine running, there was no change in idle speed. The only test that the ICV system did not pass was the voltage test. 9.5V is close to 10V, but 3.5V is 1/3 what it should be. To me that seems too far out of spec. With the ICV completely removed, the idle is at about 2000 RPM, as expected. If I manually rotate the ICV 'open' and connect it to the car, it rotates 'closed'. If I understand it's operation correctly, it is only supposed to be closed when the RPM's rise above about 950. I would really like to find out if my ICV is bad before spending $200 to find out that the 'old' one was OK.
If the ICV voltages are generated inside the ECU, can anything outside the ECU effect the ICV voltages? I'd hate even more to spend $450 or so for an ECU that might be OK.
Or is it time to ignore it and get on with my life?
Cold start problem, very rare but still frustrating when it happens
Loss of power during acceleration
Transmission problems, mainly unusual shift points, up and down
Hunting idle
Stomp test not working
Performed:
1. Replaced plugs with OEM Bosch (were Autolite - last change date unknown)
2. Replaced distributor and rotor
3. Cleaned all spark plug wires and connectors at both ends
4. Replaced fuel filter and air filter
5. Drained transmission fluid (dipstick level well above 'max' indication) and refilled to proper level. Still need to replace the AT filter - I couldn't get the dipstick collar nut loose last time.
6. TPS did not 'click' when throttle at idle position. TPS not adjusted properly. TPS did not make connection at wide-open-throttle (WOT) position. TPS opened carefully, cleaned out oil and gunk, resoldered electrical connections, sprayed with liberal amounts of contact cleaner, and WOT contact was verified. Re-installed, adjusted for idle position microswitch 'click' on throttle body.
7. ICV cleaned, rotation inside cylinder verified manually. ICV terminal resistances measure per the spec. ICV connector voltage checks; center to (-) = battery voltage. OK, center to one side = 9.5V (should be about 10V). OK, center to other side = 3.5V (should be about 10V) FAIL.
Results:
Somewhere in steps 1 - 4, my loss of power at acceleration vanished and the idle was improved as well. I haven't had a cold start problem in weeks. Step 5 made a drastic improvement in the operation of the transmission. Step 6 resulted in better throttle response and my stomp test is working - No fault codes (woo-hoo).
Summary:
Ahh, step 7. My idle is good, but not great. Per the manual, I disconnected the connector for the ICV with the engine running, there was no change in idle speed. The only test that the ICV system did not pass was the voltage test. 9.5V is close to 10V, but 3.5V is 1/3 what it should be. To me that seems too far out of spec. With the ICV completely removed, the idle is at about 2000 RPM, as expected. If I manually rotate the ICV 'open' and connect it to the car, it rotates 'closed'. If I understand it's operation correctly, it is only supposed to be closed when the RPM's rise above about 950. I would really like to find out if my ICV is bad before spending $200 to find out that the 'old' one was OK.
If the ICV voltages are generated inside the ECU, can anything outside the ECU effect the ICV voltages? I'd hate even more to spend $450 or so for an ECU that might be OK.
Or is it time to ignore it and get on with my life?