I have to close my doors 2 times

[ve39]

I was wondering what could be the problem if when i lock the car i have to lock it twise couse the first time i try to lock it unlocks
thx

[Bruno]

Easy, check the wires in the trunk area, the ones that are going to the trunk lid.
They get pinched and they brake.

I am sure one of the wires is broken. Check that 1st.

[e34]

yea thats your prob, i had the same thing. I had to lock the doors two times sence the trunk is not locking up. So check the wires its the problem, i also had few that were cutting my license plate light and i saw few that were almost cut but i fixed that and it works great.

[kiNGMak]

its not the wires or anything like that.. remove the back seat cover.. left hand side (driver side on US models) three brown 7.5 fuses.. one is blown.. replace all three with new fuses.. and your problem is solved

[ve39]

Forgot to meson some times but very rarely i only have to lock once so i guess it couldn't be fuses

[ve39]

sorry but where exactly those wires in the trunk should be ?

[shogun]

You can repair the microswitch (see link below) or change the GM (general module) to a newer one which has several features, such as:

-Repeat and time interlock for headwashers, time interlock 3 min.
-headlight washing pump at fifth windshield washing after time interlock
-intensiv washing pump operating at reduced time from 3 to 2 seconds
-minimum interval for wipers reduced to 2 from 3 seconds (programmmable)
-increased wiper contact pressure during windshield washing now also provided

-previously the GM would react opposing signals (e.g. an unlock signal while trying to lock, as with a defective microswitch) by carrying out the first command (e.g. locking, followed immediately by unlocking). Repeating the first command then results in carrying out the command, e.g. try to lock again, and locking is now carried out. This function (Asynchronious Position)is omitted in the NEW GM.
-After unlocking is performed due to crash sensor activiation, the locking command is now reactivated by double-locking with the key from either side (driver or passenger door).
-The one-touch operation of windows has been expanded to all 4 windows in OPENING direction. Drivers side has one touch in both directions
Sunroof is not already in the tilt position.
-switch off delay of the interior lights after entering the vehicle and closing the driver's door reduced from 20 to 15 seconds.

one of the p/n's of the new GM from 09/91 is 6135 8 356 095

link to Johan's page (http://shrubbery.student.utwente.nl/johan/doorlock_microswitch/doorlock_microswitch.html)

Note: all this info is for E34 snf E32, but I guess it is similar to your model.

[kiNGMak]

ve39 .. i had the same exact problem.. it has back up so that when you lock the second time you can actually lock your doors.. so your are not vulnerable.. sometimes.. it would lock on the first try... i took my car to the dealer and they didnt find it to be the fuse.. someone on the board had same problem and it was their fuse.. so i check mine.. and of course it was that simple.. i would atleast check it out.. but your call

[Paul in NZ]

the actual boot hinge on the lhs side.where they flex between the body and the hinge is where they break and short....

[ve39]

hey guys i'm sure the problem is in my trunk wiring but can you explain what wires or give me a picture i think i'm looking in the wrong place
thx alot

[doogie]

hey guys i'm sure the problem is in my trunk wiring but can you explain what wires or give me a picture i think i'm looking in the wrong place
thx alot


OK...... stand behind your car and open the trunk. (at this point you might want to empty all the cr*p that you keep in your trunk out onto the sidewalk beside you) The trunk has a great big bit that is currently up in the air (that's the bit that covers the hole in the back of the car!) and little tubular supports which look like they are going from the big bit to your parcel shelf on the inside.

On the left hand one of these tubular supports there is a black plastic cover. Open the black plastic cover (should be self explanatory for how to unclip the little clips) under the black plastic cover is a bunch of wires, probably wrapped up in a black fabric type thing. Trace this bunch of wires into your trunk (you might need to get into the trunk with a torch for a good view) you might need to pull away the carpeting and unclip the bundle to get a proper look at the wires.

You will almost certainly see one or more of these wires which are cut right through (I think mine had 10!). (at this point you might want to disconnect your battery negative terminal if you're paranoid!) Make some form of repair (eg black tape, connection blocks, additional wiring etc etc) to all cut wires so that they are rejoined and have electrical connectivity. (if you disconnected your battery, reconnect it)

Check your central locking and license plate light work as expected.

Hope that helps :D

Doogie

[ve39]

thx alot for your infor ganna check it out today i was looking in the wrong place i was looking in the actual trunk door where the lock is located

[DanH]

If you dont disconnect the battery when splicing the wires back together, theres a good chance of blowing a fuse. It happened to me when i spliced the wires a couple years ago, took me a few months of ripping apart most of the trunk locking system, before I figured out there were three fuses for the central locking system under the back seat...one was blown...

So, I fixed one problem (license plate light out) and caused another(locks messed up), since I fixed quite a few wires that were also about to break and blew the fuse in the process.

Good Luck,

[kiNGMak]

Fastest fix...

[SamB]

Always check fuses first (how many times have I learned that.....) but the wires in the boot (trunk if you must :p ) are a very common problem, I redid all mine with new more flexible wire.