Ordering parts today, shimmy... need opinions!

[Jon K]

I have a 1992 525i with 160k on the clock. I have a pretty bad shimmy around 50 - 55 - 60 mphs as well as braking from those speeds i have to brake in stages to not shimmy so bad. So I know the story about the shimmy.. but i am concerned as a college student that if i buy control arms w/ 750i bushings that i am going to install it and still have the shimmies... My ass wanders a little, meaning i need subframe bushings. But I know the labor on that is intensive, so i am not sure i am going to tackle that just yet. I have a busted right front foglight. Saw some on ebay for $89. So my question is...

Does it make sense to just buy control arms w/ 750i bushings pressed and hope that it fixes my shimmy? Or is there any way to intelligently examine the bushings and know exactly what to replace? I am a college kid so doing work is fine, its just a matter of finding a place to do it. If there is anyone in the Allentown/Center Valley PA area that might know what the hell they're doing when it comes to E34's, let me know so I can get some insight before I blindly start redoing my whole front end. Thanks guys!

[bahnstormer]

sell the 7" touch screen. that's what 200 bucks? =] heheh

first have your rotors checked, are they warped? if shimmy during braking,
it might be rotors/pads

[632 Regal]

I'd venture to say its the thrust arms, they are a common wear piece. There was a post a few days back about someone on Ebay selling them at quite a discount with the 750 bushings, maybe you can keep that screen :D Replaceing these should pretty much limit your shimmies, other problems can add to the smimmy but if it's as severe as you say it's a pretty safe bet to just replace the thrust arms.

[Jon K]

sell the 7" touch screen. that's what 200 bucks? =] heheh

first have your rotors checked, are they warped? if shimmy during braking,
it might be rotors/pads


wtf?


and secondly, rotors? its not the rotors, i change my rotors religiously, these are zimmerman x-drilled with maybe 5k miles on them, it only shimmies at a certain speed.. thus not the rotors.

[ryan roopnarine]

I'd venture to say its the thrust arms, they are a common wear piece. There was a post a few days back about someone on Ebay selling them at quite a discount with the 750 bushings, maybe you can keep that screen :D Replaceing these should pretty much limit your shimmies, other problems can add to the smimmy but if it's as severe as you say it's a pretty safe bet to just replace the thrust arms.


i emailed them, FCP groton....price is $120 for 2 arms with 750i bushings plus 8 for shipping or 60 per arm plus 8.

[avitt2]

i emailed them, FCP groton....price is $120 for 2 arms with 750i bushings plus 8 for shipping or 60 per arm plus 8.


I installed FCP Groton stuff (thrust arms with 750 bushings, lower aluminum control arms, tie-rod ends, sway bar links) about a week ago. My 50 MPH shimmy is gone, and I've got over $300 extra dollars in my pocket (compared to Lemforder parts).

The bushings in the thrust arms are the same as you'll find in OEM Lemforders. Some people on the board have questioned the ball-joint boot durability of the TRW arms sold by FCP. If you're concerned, you can buy urethane boots here:

http://www.bmpd.com/products/acc/suspension/dustboots.shtml

...and still save money. Good luck.

Tony

[Mobius]

Ahh.. Thanks Avitt - Those were on the arms I pulled off. I was trying to figure out where they came from. Cool.

[Jon K]

Ahh.. Thanks Avitt - Those were on the arms I pulled off. I was trying to figure out where they came from. Cool.


Ok i bought lemforder upper and lower control arms with 750il bushings. I am still in dire need of a passenger side fog lamp non-projector.

[Alan_525i]

It's late now I suppose, but I've heard a warn thrust arm bushing can be diagnosed by driving the car at 10-15 mph with a friend outside and braking. You can supposedly see the wheel move back a bit.

Also, rotate your wheels and see if it changes, swapping front to back got rid of 80% of the shimmy I had before I got the new SO3sa, now the shimmy is totally gone.

[Jon K]

It's late now I suppose, but I've heard a warn thrust arm bushing can be diagnosed by driving the car at 10-15 mph with a friend outside and braking. You can supposedly see the wheel move back a bit.

Also, rotate your wheels and see if it changes, swapping front to back got rid of 80% of the shimmy I had before I got the new SO3sa, now the shimmy is totally gone.


Thanks Al. Yo we're detailing rides tomorrow morning 9/25 at 9am here at Brendans house. I think we're detailing the X50 911 Cab and some M3's... you should come up.

[ryan roopnarine]

i just got the pass side arm i bought from fcp groton, will take pics later, but the ball joint boot looks mediocre, to be generous. if i were buying from them, i'd take the difference and buy the BMP boots before the parts were installed and put them on before installation