Doing my repairs and i found out....D-shaft questions

[Jon K]

my center bearing is like gone. theres no rubber at all surrounding the internal metal bearing. the outter retaining ring is snapped... my driveshaft looks fine. the flex disc is shot. Question:

How the hell do you get the two halves of the driveshaft apart?! Theres one big (20mm 21mm maybe) nut in the center... but then there is hte joint where the two halves come together, i cannot figure out how to seperate that joint. Can anyone PLEASE enlighten me?

I think I also found the culprit of my shimmy... although i have uper and lower control arms sitting here with 750i bushings, it looks like the bar closest to the back of the car, when looking at the passenger hub assembly (front) has play when i shake the wheel/tire/brake. the other side doesn't do this. i think (recollecting) this rod is hooked to my sway bar, but i cannot remember. sigh. please advise.

[Jon K]

i identified the part that has the play...

http://www.orbitalinternet.net/pics/balljoint.png

it's #3 in that image... the ball jount end... its the piece that goes in hole #8... there is play in that little shaft that is facing downward...

so question is, do i need to replace the whole tie-rod? or can i just replace that threaded piece? please let me know. its the passenger side one that i am looking for.

[Jeff N.]

It's tedious but you basically use a box wrench to undo that bolt. You'll need some one to hold the bloody thing while you undo it a 1/4 turn or less at a time. And, for added pleasure, it's a pretty long bolt.

But, it does come undone and then you can split the driveshaft in half.

The next pleasurable part of the job will be removing the old center bearing. Helps to have a gear puller or similar. Be careful when you install the new one to get it one straight and not to tweek the frame when you install it.

Remind me one day to post the story about the adventure we had when we replaced the aft CV joint on the driveshaft. That's another "Martin Bacon, Genius" story.

Have fun.

Jeff



i identified the part that has the play...

http://www.orbitalinternet.net/pics/balljoint.png

it's #3 in that image... the ball jount end... its the piece that goes in hole #8... there is play in that little shaft that is facing downward...

so question is, do i need to replace the whole tie-rod? or can i just replace that threaded piece? please let me know. its the passenger side one that i am looking for.

[Jr ///M5]

Before you split the driveshaft apart, make an index mark so the two halfs will go back the same way they came apart. If you don't, you could end up with a vibration after all your hard work.

Jr

[bimmerd00d]

jon call me if you have any problems with the d'shaft, i've split mine about 3-4 times.

left my cell # on your AIM.

[Jeff N.]

Before you split the driveshaft apart, make an index mark so the two halfs will go back the same way they came apart. If you don't, you could end up with a vibration after all your hard work.

Jr

[632 Regal]

the ball joint you are referring (tie rod end) to can be replaced as a seperate item but is also sold as an assembly with both tie rods and the sleeve. Thats the way Id do it and record it in my records.

Isnt there some trick to the center bearing such as a certain preload before something is attached and prior to bolting back up???? I specificly remember a procedure on this from about a year ago but dont have it stored in my archives.

I remember if it is not done properly you will hate yourself and then have to buy a new center bearing and do it again...anyone recollect this?

[Jr ///M5]

You preload the center bearing by moving it forward no more than a 1/4". With the center bearing mount bolts tightened all the way by hand, position it directly in the center of the driveline by measuring from both sides of the drive line tunnel. With the center bearing exactly in the center, and without any forward or rearward tension on it, move it forward about 1/4", and tighten the mounting bolts.

Jr

[grave77]

Well how about replacing the whole D-Shaft with something much better... I have replaced mine 2 times since I got it ... the font and rear joints always get stuck. I think that 535i engineers didn't calculate the torque passing to the rear differential gear especially when you use sport wheels!! I wish we can put the 850i D-shaft or 750i. Do you have any ideas about it?

[Jon K]

You preload the center bearing by moving it forward no more than a 1/4". With the center bearing mount bolts tightened all the way by hand, position it directly in the center of the driveline by measuring from both sides of the drive line tunnel. With the center bearing exactly in the center, and without any forward or rearward tension on it, move it forward about 1/4", and tighten the mounting bolts.

Jr


When the bearing gets pressed onto the shaft, it goes on fully correct? This 1/4" business is on the mount it to the underside of the car right? Is that why the bolt holes are elongated?

[Jr ///M5]

Yes sir.....

[Dave M]

preloading. With the d'shaft in its 'natural' position, handtighten the bolts, then move the bearing and final tighten.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/dave_macisaac/Bimmer/Linkage%20Fix/Center_bearing_removed.jpg


When the bearing gets pressed onto the shaft, it goes on fully correct? This 1/4" business is on the mount it to the underside of the car right? Is that why the bolt holes are elongated?