View Full Version : oil sprayer bar
jiminEcricket
11-12-2004, 09:00 AM
i have an 89' 525i. about a year and a half ago i replaced the cam,rockers,valve springs and re-installed the head (bought the car used,mileage unknown, stuck at 299,996 km) vehicle was not running and had a worn cam and broken rocker. fast forward to today. motor "tap" was getting louder, removed the oil filler cap when running and find the oil sprayer bar not"spraying" but more like dripping( at least on #1 cyl. as thats all i can see w/valve cover installed) i also see that the cam lobe is worn out. i bought a used head off e-bay wich appears to be good. i will be checking oil pressure soon( sucks as the sender is in between the p/s motor mount) my question is #1- should the oil sprayer bar be "spraying" as the name implies? 2. why does the idle act wierd, dropping when the filler cap is removed and goes back to normal when re-installed? any help is appreciated. i don't want to toast another head.
632 Regal
11-12-2004, 10:36 AM
the sprayer bar bolts may have came loose causing a big drop in pressure up there, the car is a sealed system so when you open the oil cap its supposed to effect the idle. figure out the oiling problem before you change the head as it sounds like that part and gasket are good.
jiminEcricket
11-12-2004, 05:49 PM
the sprayer bar bolts may have came loose causing a big drop in pressure up there, the car is a sealed system so when you open the oil cap its supposed to effect the idle. figure out the oiling problem before you change the head as it sounds like that part and gasket are good.
my oil sprayer bar does not have removable bolts , but bolts that are attached to the bar ,like a brake line fitting. do these come loose often also?
632 Regal
11-12-2004, 07:01 PM
someone on this board made some bolts specificly for the problem of them loosening up. They were machined for safety wires, Ill see if I can dig up some information on it.
Here's a link to some cross drilled bolts.
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/banjo.htm
someone on this board made some bolts specificly for the problem of them loosening up. They were machined for safety wires, Ill see if I can dig up some information on it.
Jr ///M5
11-12-2004, 07:28 PM
Pull the valve cover to see if the bolts backed out, it's a common problem with the M30 engine. They are usually caught in time when doing routine valve adjustments. Installing them with blue loctite will work also. BMW has redesigned these bolts as to solve this problem, they are identified by a raised ridge around the head of the bolt. You should be able to source them through your dealer.
Hope you haven't toasted the cam! Best of luck...
Jr
'91 ///M5
'91 318iS
'01 525
Robin-535im
11-12-2004, 07:33 PM
I don't know if they are the same part for a "baby six"
Bill R.
11-12-2004, 07:48 PM
the same problem as the m30/m70s do.
I don't know if they are the same part for a "baby six"
632 Regal
11-12-2004, 07:51 PM
I don't know if they are the same part for a "baby six"
Robin-535im
11-12-2004, 08:07 PM
the same problem as the m30/m70s do.
It kept getting all this oil on my cam shaft. Couldn't keep the thing clean to save my life! That, and the fact that there was like .011 slop in the rocker arms... Darn things should be snug as far as I'm concerned.
You should see the power it has now... without all that pesky oil drag on the cam shaft!
:)
winfred
11-12-2004, 10:29 PM
the m20 bar doesn't get loose, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN IT this will break the boss it's screwed into, i have a fix but i am not sure if it can be done with the cam installed, the bar can be sparayed out with carb cleaner and the holes poked clean with a pick or other pointy object. crappy idle with the cap off is normal, the m20 has a closed crank case and any blow by is sucked into the intake, any signifigant air leak will screw with the injection system just like any other vacuum leak
Jr ///M5
11-12-2004, 10:42 PM
I could have swore he had an '89 535 when I read his post, sorry for the misinformation I provided.
You should always listen to Bill R. and Winfred anyway, some of us aren't worthy....=)
Apologies,
Jr
winfred
11-12-2004, 10:59 PM
yea right like i don't **** up :D
I could have swore he had an '89 535 when I read his post, sorry for the misinformation I provided.
You should always listen to Bill R. and Winfred anyway, some of us aren't worthy....=)
Apologies,
Jr
Bill R.
11-13-2004, 12:32 AM
I could have swore he had an '89 535 when I read his post, sorry for the misinformation I provided.
You should always listen to Bill R. and Winfred anyway, some of us aren't worthy....=)
Apologies,
Jr
632 Regal
11-13-2004, 12:30 PM
[QUOTE=Robin-535im]You should see the power it has now... without all that pesky oil drag on the cam shaft!QUOTE]
Maybe with the crank though.
jiminEcricket
11-13-2004, 02:51 PM
i really appreciate everyones help. i cant win for losing. i figured i would check the oil press, borrowed a co-workers' oil press gauge for the weekend. removed the sending unit to find that his set does not have the metric coupler to fit my motor. drove around all day to no avail. checked several stores,nobody has it. does anyone know where i can get the adapter/fitting to check my oil press? again thanks
winfred
11-13-2004, 09:41 PM
i just use a generic add on op gauge they usually come with several adaptors and enough tubeing to get it to a safe area to watch, i've been using the same one for several years and they are cheep enough to throw away
does anyone know where i can get the adapter/fitting to check my oil press? again thanks
jiminEcricket
11-14-2004, 12:32 AM
i just use a generic add on op gauge they usually come with several adaptors and enough tubeing to get it to a safe area to watch, i've been using the same one for several years and they are cheep enough to throw away
appreciate the suggestion , i'll give that a shot. otherwise i'll spend the rest of my life trying to find the correct adapter. thanks :p
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