is there a heater valve filter?

[632 Regal]

was condomplating some sealant (shhhh) to stop the cool blue smell and fogging of the windshield. If there is some sort of filter than I obviously wont condone such an atrocity. Duey never came over to change my heater core out.

[JonE]

Can you bypass the valve somehow just long enough to put the sealant in then change fluid and see if it works? Didn't Ryan work out some sort of bypass, but, I think his was to keep fluid out of the heater core during the warm months...

[winfred]

two or three hose pincher's outta bung it up without destroying anything


was condomplating some sealant (shhhh) to stop the cool blue smell and fogging of the windshield. If there is some sort of filter than I obviously wont condone such an atrocity. Duey never came over to change my heater core out.

[winfred]

or get a heater hose T and connect all 3 lines together

[632 Regal]

or get a heater hose T and connect all 3 lines together

[winfred]

well if you want heat without fogged windows ya gotta get dirty, it aint that bad for me but i have completely torn down my 535 and rebuilt it from the fire damage it had when i got it, it may be a tad much for somebody in a driveway and a real job to go to the most of the week

[632 Regal]

well if you want heat without fogged windows ya gotta get dirty, it aint that bad for me but i have completely torn down my 535 and rebuilt it from the fire damage it had when i got it, it may be a tad much for somebody in a driveway and a real job to go to the most of the week

[talltorontoguy]

If you're talking about changing the heater core I have the same problem.

According to Bruno, the job takes about a full day+ to get done and involves removal of the console and the lower dash. Some guy removed the whole dash on one site I saw.

This is a real toss up... can you live with the fog/smell or can you handle the pain. I just hate working on the interior (I'm 6'5" / 260) and I just know that some clip is gonna break or a screw is gonna get lost.

The one thing I'm worried about is breathing in that toxic coolant. It can't be good for us.

If anyone has an alternative fix for this without removing the unit I would love to hear it.

I was wondering if the inlet / outlet hoses could be disconnected from the system temporarily (Like a bypass) but then fill the system and then have a stop-leak type additive put in? Dreaming again I'm sure....

[winfred]

a good days work for me, but that's gutting the car from the seats forward on a e32 (last one i did), i am not sure if theres any worthy short cuts that won't bite you in the ass, i've not gone into a e34 just to do the heater core yet, i think it'd be easyer then a e32

[an535i]

not saying this will work for everybody or that it is a good idea.

But I let an experanced technician who i trusted run sealant through my coolant system in an attempt to fix a leaky heatercore (only signs were foggy window on driver side)
its not a 100% fixed, but i have no fog spot anymore and no smell of coolant when the heater is on so Im happy.

I think the book says around 14 hours for heater core R & R ..

[632 Regal]

OK..I did the bars leak deal. This is the crap that says it will pass through a #24 screen (I think thats what it says on the site) I crushed it up and presoaked it. To me it looks like a fine ground wood powder, which it probably is but it dont float that well...or much at all for that matter.

Went for about a hundred mile cruise and the heat still works so far. I did catch a whif of cool blue during the ride but I will give it a bit of time and see if it works. Said to dump in almost all of the stuff but I only dumped 1/3. I'll be a guneapig vs an all day job venturing into places that I do not want to go.


heres the BS from the site:

Will Bar's Leaks plug my heater core?

No, the tiny particles will pass through a 24 gauge mesh screen which is the spec for the BIG 3 car manufacture. They say that any product installed in the cooling system must pass through this screen. Bar's Leaks is the only stop leak to pass this test and to be approved by the car companies. Note: If using Bar's Leaks to stop heater core leaks, make sure you turn your heater control to HOT. Some vehicles have a valve that controls coolant flow through the core.

[winfred]

bars leak is the only stuff like that id consider using and i've had success on the few times i've used it, i ****ing love cleaning up that crap that looks like cement after doing a head gasket, i get a car in like that the radiator goes into the dumpster and is replaced, sometimes so does the expansion tank depending on how packed it is with that crap


OK..I did the bars leak deal. This is the crap that says it will pass through a #24 screen (I think thats what it says on the site) I crushed it up and presoaked it. To me it looks like a fine ground wood powder, which it probably is but it dont float that well...or much at all for that matter.

Went for about a hundred mile cruise and the heat still works so far. I did catch a whif of cool blue during the ride but I will give it a bit of time and see if it works. Said to dump in almost all of the stuff but I only dumped 1/3. I'll be a guneapig vs an all day job venturing into places that I do not want to go.