Oil Help!!!!....

[GAGE308]

I am the New Proud owner of a 1991 bmw 525i.....I got it 3 weeks ago (early x-mas Gift to myslf :-b ....Anyway...this car is HOT....It has had 1 owner who used it ONLY On the weekends...and some travel...GARAGE Kept...PERFECT PAINT...Not ONE DING on the Body...all the black plastic trim is STILL DARK BLACK...Leather interior is AWESOME...ONLY FLAW IS the door panels...they have Just simply Dilapidated somewhat...But I am looking for new ones.On EBAY!!!!! ... UNDER THE HOOD...GOOD GOD....it looks SOOOO NEW....No oil...or discoloration...EVERYTHING is black and shiney metal...I think the prior owner recently changed ALL the hoses and belts.ENGINE runs like a cat purring SUPER SMOOTH and the tranny shifts EVER SO SMOOTH..
.I am using this car as My every day Vehicle...But thinking of getting a beater so I can keep this thing sweet,....OK to the Point...I DONT KNOW what Kind of oil it has had in it its whole life...I know that Valves may seat themselves and the whole engine will Likely GROW USED TO the Oil used...( Like Dogs and their food)...LOL..I dont want My car to get the Shits because I changed the Oil it Likes....I am thinking about Going ALL synthetic....Is that Good?....is there an oil that I can use as a crossover?...or something that will just Take over where the other left off?....I am anxious to start maintaining my new prize But would LOVE If an ACE Mechanic or 12 would give me some advice ;-)...OH BTW...I paid $2350 for the car...Got it oN ebay too.... made a Journey from baltimore to New york to get her...Smiled the WHOLE WAY BACK

[Qsilver7]

Open your owners manual and turn to the "recommended" oil chart. Determine what weight oil meets the requirement for the temperature where you live and buy accordingly.

Castex is the oil brand most BMW dealers use. You can use "dino" oil or synthetic...or any reputable brand like Mobil 1 (if going synthetic)...more importantly is to be consistent in doing oil changes etc.

If you aren't familiar with the service interval (oil insp/insp I & II)..take the time to understand how it counts down and familiarize yourself with "intermediate oil changes" if you prefer to change your oil sooner than SI interval. Doing an intermediate oil change...you don't reset the lights...but wait and reset when you do the next oil service when the Oil Serv light illuminates. This keeps the Insp I & II lights on track.

Click here for Service Interval info: http://www.bmwworld.com/repairs/maintenance.htm

[Russell]

I went straight to Mobil 1 0w40 about 16,000 miles ago. Changes about every 4,000 miles. BTW, some people like Mobil 1 15w50. I found that my engine had a valvetrain rattle the first start on a cold days as the heavier oil is slow to pump up. Almost gone with the 0w40. The w means winter, not weight

No leaks, no oil burning, no problems. I believe higher detergent levels in the 0w40 than dino oil is slowly removing any built up varnish and sludge that may have been left by the PO. Reason for more frequent oil changes than some do.

FYI, I plan to do a Blackstone oil analysis my next change to see how it is doing. It will cost about $20.

You may also want to visit BOBISTHE OILGUY web site. Be warned, they have several forums and there are people on that site who talk about aspects of oil/filters and all lubricants that may require an engineering degree to understand.:) They are serious.

Good luck, I am sure you will get several different opinions.



I am the New Proud owner of a 1991 bmw 525i.....I got it 3 weeks ago (early x-mas Gift to myslf :-b ....Anyway...this car is HOT....It has had 1 owner who used it ONLY On the weekends...and some travel...GARAGE Kept...PERFECT PAINT...Not ONE DING on the Body...all the black plastic trim is STILL DARK BLACK...Leather interior is AWESOME...ONLY FLAW IS the door panels...they have Just simply Dilapidated somewhat...But I am looking for new ones.On EBAY!!!!! ... UNDER THE HOOD...GOOD GOD....it looks SOOOO NEW....No oil...or discoloration...EVERYTHING is black and shiney metal...I think the prior owner recently changed ALL the hoses and belts.ENGINE runs like a cat purring SUPER SMOOTH and the tranny shifts EVER SO SMOOTH..
.I am using this car as My every day Vehicle...But thinking of getting a beater so I can keep this thing sweet,....OK to the Point...I DONT KNOW what Kind of oil it has had in it its whole life...I know that Valves may seat themselves and the whole engine will Likely GROW USED TO the Oil used...( Like Dogs and their food)...LOL..I dont want My car to get the Shits because I changed the Oil it Likes....I am thinking about Going ALL synthetic....Is that Good?....is there an oil that I can use as a crossover?...or something that will just Take over where the other left off?....I am anxious to start maintaining my new prize But would LOVE If an ACE Mechanic or 12 would give me some advice ;-)...OH BTW...I paid $2350 for the car...Got it oN ebay too.... made a Journey from baltimore to New york to get her...Smiled the WHOLE WAY BACK

[632 Regal]

Mobil1 0w-40 change it every 7500 miles.

[tim s]

the bottle claims it is formulated for bmw, vw, & some other makes.
i change it about every 5000-6000miles.
tim s.

[George M]

a little puppy chow mixed in with gravy and bits along with dino oil strained through an old sock...don't use your Sunday best....will make your valves seat themselves when the music stops...though they may never get used to the beat.
OK DUDE?
HTH,
George

[GAGE308]

Cool....OK...I LOVE your sende of humor...Kinda like mine...LOL...But are you serious about the sock?...LOL...I'LL DO IT ....I just wanna make sure you arent kidding and I klook liek a FRiggin MORON,.....LOL....But seriously Thanks MUCH for the advice...
Donnie V

[GAGE308]

COOL...Once again Thanks to everyone that responded to my thread....Since I WILL be switching over to synthetic....It Just seems common maybe I should makde my first change (after the synthetic is in)...relatively soon ...for the first time anyway...to act as a kind of fluch process...or to rid the system of any poison that the Pourous metal had Saved from the conventional oils..Or Maybe an engine flush of some kind that is designed to take place as you change over to synthetic?.....I dont know...Maybe Im over reacting?....Possibly someone could lend some more advice...and thanks in advance...
Donnie

[GAGE308]

Cool thanks guys----It really to me Just seems...that the 0w40 seems a little scary to me....Im all new to the synthetic stuff so maybe someone can explain that....I know that the MOST wear on your engine Occurs at the start....and with an oil THAT Light it just seems that it would leave very little above the Bottom of the crankcase...and also more prone to leaks....But Once again Im just so new...I need to learn this all over....Does the weight of the oil...Or say 10-w40 Mean the SAME THING when chosing an oil to match the season or climate as conventional oils...Or I guess what I am saying....Say since I live in MD...we have somewhat cold winters and HOT summers...so would I pick the synthetic oil using the same chart as the conv.?....Ok dudes....sorry for being so OUT of it....But this is also the Oldest car Ive ever owned....Ive always had newer cars...with payments and warranties...LOL////
D

[Paul in NZ]

It seems to me that you are a bit anxious,quite understandable!.You say the car is in excellent condition.Pull the dipstick,if the oil is dirty change it now.Undo the oil filler cap and peer inside,and if it looks anything like this (http://clients.net2000.com.au/~rowmat/BMW/valve_gear_1.jpg) you have no worries.Do a bit more research,see what oils are easiliy available in your area and make the switch next oil change.)0W or 5w al year round!Start up protectionis enhanced cos light oils pump immediately....

[pundit]

....Pull the dipstick,if the oil is dirty change it now.Undo the oil filler cap and peer inside,and if it looks anything like this (http://clients.net2000.com.au/~rowmat/BMW/valve_gear_1.jpg) you have no worries...
Hmmm... now where have I seen this picture before? :D

[pundit]

I am the New Proud owner of a 1991 bmw 525i.....I got it 3 weeks ago (early x-mas Gift to myslf :-b ....Anyway...this car is HOT....It has had 1 owner who used it ONLY On the weekends...and some travel...GARAGE Kept...PERFECT PAINT...Not ONE DING on the Body...all the black plastic trim is STILL DARK BLACK...Leather interior is AWESOME...ONLY FLAW IS the door panels...they have Just simply Dilapidated somewhat...But I am looking for new ones.On EBAY!!!!! ... UNDER THE HOOD...GOOD GOD....it looks SOOOO NEW....No oil...or discoloration...EVERYTHING is black and shiney metal...I think the prior owner recently changed ALL the hoses and belts.ENGINE runs like a cat purring SUPER SMOOTH and the tranny shifts EVER SO SMOOTH..
.I am using this car as My every day Vehicle...But thinking of getting a beater so I can keep this thing sweet,....OK to the Point...I DONT KNOW what Kind of oil it has had in it its whole life...I know that Valves may seat themselves and the whole engine will Likely GROW USED TO the Oil used...( Like Dogs and their food)...LOL..I dont want My car to get the Shits because I changed the Oil it Likes....I am thinking about Going ALL synthetic....Is that Good?....is there an oil that I can use as a crossover?...or something that will just Take over where the other left off?....I am anxious to start maintaining my new prize But would LOVE If an ACE Mechanic or 12 would give me some advice ;-)...OH BTW...I paid $2350 for the car...Got it oN ebay too.... made a Journey from baltimore to New york to get her...Smiled the WHOLE WAY BACK
Congrats on your new 'Christmas present'! Likewise, I just picked up my 535i last week. I don't know what oil had been used previously but it had obviously been changed regularly because there is absolutely not a 'bee's dick' of carbon build up or sludge visible anywhere on the valve train (http://clients.net2000.com.au/~rowmat/BMW/valve_gear_1.jpg) . (170,000kms - 105,000mls). Apart from the excellent overall condition of the vehicle this really confirmed to me that the service books that came with the car told no lies. I had looked at other E34's where it looked like the ink was still wet on some of the service entries. Needless to say the appearance did not match the 'documentation'! So now it is up to 'yours truly' not to 'drop the ball' from here on in. I've just purchased some Mobil 1 5W-50 (http://www.mobil.com.au/mobil/fr_mobil_products_mobil1.html). Before some of you gasp this is Australia and we don't have 40 below winters here and besides, it's summer anyway. :)

[632 Regal]

I cant tell what post came where in the new board format so id just say is get the oil change thing ready and drive the car until HOT then pull up on the ramps and shut it off and drain it ASAP...before the dirt settles to the bottom of the pan. Switch direct to the 0w-40 and dont look back...if that oil can handle 1000hp Im sure it will be adequite for your engine.

[GAGE308]

Ok cool Guys....Everything went with Only ONE Hitch....I used Mobil 1.. 5-w30....I drained the warm oil....Then removed the Oil filter from the cannister...Opened Up the new Filter ...AND IT WAS WRONG...It was the screw on type...But In the Fram Book...It was THE ONLY filter for that Car (BOught it at WALMART By the way)...for the 1991 525i./....(which that year they switched from the m-20's to the m50's I have the M-50...ANYWAY....There I was...all OUT of oil in my car,...and WRONG filter...SO...I neede to Go to AUTO ZONE...and talk to them to see what was up...WELL I figured its ONLY a Mile away....SO it PROBABLY wouldnt HURT to just drive it RIGHT Up there...without oil...There was Still SOME in there like residual and stuff....SO..I ..LOL..OK thats enough.NO ONE would do that...LOL....I Just wanted to make everyone get a FUNNY ASS Look on their face...OK...I took My VAN up there and they gave a FRAM Filter....to fit in the cannister..and in their computer the SAME wrong screw on type wa sthere...I guess they think they dont need to specify that that year car had two different engines..OK...ALL said and done...I think its OK...No leaks,,,,and the thing actually Idles a little more smooth than before....I know it sounds Funny But i DID Notice it....OK Guys...Thanks FO ALL YO HELP!...
Donnie V ...Baltimore MD...USA

[nuwde]

Ok cool Guys....Everything went with Only ONE Hitch....I used Mobil 1.. 5-w30....I drained the warm oil....Then removed the Oil filter from the cannister...Opened Up the new Filter ...AND IT WAS WRONG...It was the screw on type...But In the Fram Book...It was THE ONLY filter for that Car (BOught it at WALMART By the way)...for the 1991 525i./....(which that year they switched from the m-20's to the m50's I have the M-50...ANYWAY....There I was...all OUT of oil in my car,...and WRONG filter...SO...I neede to Go to AUTO ZONE...and talk to them to see what was up...WELL I figured its ONLY a Mile away....SO it PROBABLY wouldnt HURT to just drive it RIGHT Up there...without oil...There was Still SOME in there like residual and stuff....SO..I ..LOL..OK thats enough.NO ONE would do that...LOL....I Just wanted to make everyone get a FUNNY ASS Look on their face...OK...I took My VAN up there and they gave a FRAM Filter....to fit in the cannister..and in their computer the SAME wrong screw on type wa sthere...I guess they think they dont need to specify that that year car had two different engines..OK...ALL said and done...I think its OK...No leaks,,,,and the thing actually Idles a little more smooth than before....I know it sounds Funny But i DID Notice it....OK Guys...Thanks FO ALL YO HELP!...
Donnie V ...Baltimore MD...USA

Congrats on the car. However, I've heard bad things about fram. I guess it's not so bad if you change it often.

Edwin in Silver Spring, MD

[philbyil]

Donnie,
Welcome to the fraternity :D
Ok...you should only buy Mahle or Mann filters for your car and the "kit" which includes all seals and washers is usually around $5.00 to $7.00 and the best place for prices I have found is :

www.eap4parts.com

I would buy 4 at a time together with a couple of air filters and fuel filters.....

I would also recommend you buy yourself a Bentley's manual (around $50) to better understand your car.

I use synthetic oils in all my vehicles (Mobil1 15w50 in both cars) and you could use that or 0w40 for your "neck of the woods" being as you do have winters in MD as well :D :D

One note : Synthetics have better detergent properties than "dino" oil and if the previous owner hasn't been using them you may find that your first couple of oil changes may show VERY dirty oil! Don't worry...it will clean out but one thing to remember is that if you have any seals that are "iffy" the grunge that the synthetic removes may be stopping the oil from leaking past the seal. Just something to think about....but not to worry about!

Get yourself an EAT chip next to get some extra oomph in your car

[John B.]

I run Mobil 1 5/30 year round here in New England but I do very little summer driving as I prefer motorcycles when the weather is nice. The 0/40 makes me nervous also. Do you guys that run it leave it in year round?

[cary]

I run Mobil 1 5/30 year round here in New England but I do very little summer driving as I prefer motorcycles when the weather is nice. The 0/40 makes me nervous also. Do you guys that run it leave it in year round?

Lets beat this to death. 0w-40 is a 40 weight oil, there is nothing to be nervous about. It is approved as an ACEA A3, BMW LL-01, and MB 229.5 oil and is the only Mobil oil to be approved as BMW LL-98 or LL-01. It is sutable for all climates and conditions. It has better cold pumping numbers than the 5w-30 or 10w-30 Mobil 1, has a higher viscosity at operating teperature (14.1 cst @ 100c vs. 30 weight Mobil 1's being 10.1-.5 cst@100c) and meets the crucial minimum HTHS of 3.5 required for minimum cam wear by ACEA 3 and BMW (0w-40 HTHS is 3.6 v. 5w-30 and 10w-30 Mobil 1 being 3.1). The only time you would want to consider a heavier weight (i.e. Mobil 15w-50) would be for motors that are seeing regular track use in hot weather, or have been modified with forced induction.

[632 Regal]

M1 0w-40 all the time, NO FRAM ANYTHING, NO DRIVING WITHOUT OIL EITHER.

:D

[Aaron Bakos]

What they said, no Fram filters. I bought one once, then looked at it next to the Mahle that I took out. The Fram filter never made it into the car.

I get valve ticking no matter what oil I put in, but I'm going to run the 0w40 for a while and see if it helps.

Eventually I'll get my S52 and it won't matter...

[Russell]

So far Mobil 1 0w40 has been fine in my car summer or winter. No leaks etc. Far less rattle on a cold first start of the day. Almost nonexistant. BTW I use Malhe or Mann oil filters.


What they said, no Fram filters. I bought one once, then looked at it next to the Mahle that I took out. The Fram filter never made it into the car.

I get valve ticking no matter what oil I put in, but I'm going to run the 0w40 for a while and see if it helps.

Eventually I'll get my S52 and it won't matter...

[GAGE308]

Cool Thanks Uncle Phil C...NOW...Is the fact that I used the Fram filter mean I MUST GET IT OUT?....OR just use the others next time?. Now...If I DO have some leakage due to the change...Is there anything that I SHOULD do?...or ADD to the engine...MY THOUGHTS are NOT to add anything...BUT AGAIN..Im learning.,..Also..The EAT chip...Where Do I get onje...and Does it make a Noticeable Difference?...OK cool...and Thanks Dude! ;-)

[GAGE308]

OK COOL...Thanks Guys....I Hope you know that IO didnt drive without oil...LOL...OH...and I plan on changing my first synthetic Oil again after 2k miles...NOW...What is so wrong with the Fram filter?...JUST CURIOUS?...I though they were decent?...OK so NO FRAM...what about BOSCH?......or K&N?...The only reason Im asking is...I get all My parts for Free at Auto zone...and they stock it...the K&N Filter is TWICE as much as all the rest at $12.95..... My BEst friend is the manager at an auto zone......HOW SWEET is that?...I LOVES ME FREE OIL!!!!!!!!...and SHEEOOTT!!!.;-)
Later guys...and Thanks

[Kalevera]

Donnie-

Don't even **touch** the fram filter. Worthless paper garbage. Call Patrick at BMA (http://www.bmaparts.com) and get him to send you a Mann or a Mahle.

Also, I hate to break it to you, but stay away from AutoZone with this car unless you can help it. I've found that some of the info in their system is just plain wrong. Case in point: V-belts. They'll sell you an Alt/Fan belt that's just too big. Stick with BMA, stick with the board. Don't do things cheaply or you'll end up either doing them again or paying dearly to have them undone.

LOWELL

[philbyil]

You are not in any imminent danger ;) but I wouldn't leave it in any longer than 3k. Regarding leakage...do you have a torque wrench? If you don't and are a little light in the wallet an old fashioned beam type is better than nothing. However, if you get a 3/8 drive Click type from Sears, THAT is the ticket! You can then torque your filter bolt and drain plug correctly.

The EAT chip is available via the board. I actually have a Conforti Shark chip in mine and all I can say is that there really is a noticeable difference, especially on manual cars. One caveat though..you must run 92 or better in your motor!

Also, go to Wally World and pick up the 5 quart jugs of Mobil...thats normally the best pricing!

[Bill R.]

account at a local autozone and they post the average shrinkage rate for the stores across the nation.. I think the daily shrinkage rate when i last looked was 217 dollars per day per store...









Cool Thanks Uncle Phil C...NOW...Is the fact that I used the Fram filter mean I MUST GET IT OUT?....OR just use the others next time?. Now...If I DO have some leakage due to the change...Is there anything that I SHOULD do?...or ADD to the engine...MY THOUGHTS are NOT to add anything...BUT AGAIN..Im learning.,..Also..The EAT chip...Where Do I get onje...and Does it make a Noticeable Difference?...OK cool...and Thanks Dude! ;-)

[GAGE308]

would the dealer have these malhe or mann Filters...AS I want to change it tomorrow...I decided 1000 miles would be good,....AS a Flush of sorts for the First synthetic change...My Engineer Father thinks i should do the same...CANT HURT especially since I put one of those WELFARE Fram Filters in there...LOL

[Russell]

I believe the dealers use BMW branded filters which I think are made by Malhe. They may also be made by Mann. Either way you are OK. You may also find Malhe or Mann filters at import parts stores. Ioredr mine fomr on of teh on line parts deaers. I use BMA often.


would the dealer have these malhe or mann Filters...AS I want to change it tomorrow...I decided 1000 miles would be good,....AS a Flush of sorts for the First synthetic change...My Engineer Father thinks i should do the same...CANT HURT especially since I put one of those WELFARE Fram Filters in there...LOL

[GAGE308]

SHRINK THIS BILL.....SHRINKY DINK..LOL ..WE DONT CARE ABOUT SHRINKAGE....we are talking about Oil and changing it...and...NOW JOHNNY CARSONS DEAD.....OH THE HUMANITY.....WHATS NEXT!?!?!??!?!?!?!?!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[peterllo]

Spend the dime and get the right filters. Try getting them online from http://www.bmaautoparts.com. Nice people, good prices, definately start there as a reference before Ebay. A good information site is http://www.bmwe34.net.

Have fun.