Transmission repair

[eligunn]

So I ordered the tranny seal kit from the dealer, and I just wanted tips from anyone who's done this themselves.
Is there any special tools listed that I can't do without?
Is there any special gasket sealers or sockets or wrenches I will need?
I downloaded the pdf file with the entire procedure listed and it looks pretty striaght forward.
I'll be sure to keep my progress posted.

Thanks alot!

[tim]

more info. which tranny? what kit?

[eligunn]

A4S 310R tranny. 95 525. The kit I got is a set of gaskets and stuff that's supposed to solve the pendulum shifting issue

[tim]

If you're talking about a service, check out this link for a walkthrough: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Tranny_Fluid_Auto/E36-Tranny_Fluid_Auto.htm You can definitely do this yourself.

If you're talking about a valve body job, I hope you know what you're doing.

If you're talking about the input and output seals, do not attempt unless you have a lift, a good quality set of bottle jacks to hold the tranny up, and a friend to help out. There may be special tools involved here, but my specialty is ZF, so perhaps another board member can help out. Be extra extra careful if you attempt this, not just for your safety, but if you score the shafts, your tranny will leak forever. Let a tranny shop do it with your parts and have peace of mind.

I checked the TIS on your car and the dealer procedure for correcting the shift issue is first to make sure the fluid is at the proper level. This means refilling it while the fluid is in a range between 30 and 50 degrees celsius. Next, the band apply solenoid should be replaced. (edit: The more I think about this procedure, the more I think those steps should be reversed- typical BMW TIS)

Always use the indicated fluid.

Best of luck

[eligunn]

O.K. , here's the deal. I've been through the filter/fluid change already, and I know that it is difficult to get the fluid level correct.
I downloaded a service information bulletin, thanks to someone on this board.
In the bulletin it mentions testing the torque converter solenoid, but it also says that if you have a leak, which I do, you should get this kit and install it beacause you have to drop the tranny anyway.
The kit cost 100 bucks which seems expensive, but if it saves the tranny it will be worth it. It contains about twenty different items ranging from paper gaskets to bolts and springs.
I think I can do this myself without too many problems, here is a list of the special tools it says I will need

Tranny support
Torque converter removal tool
Reverse clutch piston compressor
Threaded rod
Transfer plate guides
clutch piston installer sleeve
seal puller

I have a 924S, and I have been able to get around using the special tools more often than not while working on it.
thanks for your quick replies and any advice you can give me.

[tim]

I presume you are a professional, or near professional mechanic. If not, stop right now, and take it to a pro and get it done. I'm not trying to be an *******, just helping you out.

I'm picturing you with two wheels of the car up on jackstands while the wife is calling 911 to get the other side off you and what's left of your legs to the emergency room. It's a GM, it's not going to break your bank to let an experienced tranny guy do it.

The first thing I'd do is check your tranny cooler lines and make sure that's not the cause of your fluid loss. When you say "paper gaskets", I'm thinking valve body-and you definitely dont want to take that one on. maybe you're talking about the paper protector on the pan gasket?

Somebody else tell me if I'm being unreasonable.

[eligunn]

Well even if I decide to take it to a shop I'd still be inclined to drop the tranny out myself and take it in there. I've got four jackstands and a big floor jack and two little floor jacks, so I'm not intimidated by jacking the car up or anything. And I'm thinking that once I've got the tranny out I'll want to go ahead and tear it apart myself.

I confess that I've never rebuilt a tranny of any kind, but I have rebuilt motors.
The procedure that I have in my hands involves the torque converter being removed, the transfer plate and the clutches, so basically it involves seperating the torque converter and adapter cases from the main case, but I don't see anything about the valve body.
I appreciate your concern for my safety, but to be honest the response I was hoping to get was more like " Yeah, you can do it yourself, it's a breeze. Go for it."

[tim]

OK. Just don't want to see you get hurt, or end up with an undriveable car.

[eligunn]

I wouldn't want either of those things to happen myself, which is why I created this thread.

[fivaxis]

I don't know how similar they are but I've built a couple 700r4s without special tools, there's always another way to do things. Autos are fairly complex, just make sure you keep track of all the parts and take pictures as you take it apart.

[632 Regal]

stack everything in the same direction on plenty of clean newspapers, dirt is a transmissions worst enemy. First trans I did didnt work, 2nd time around it worked but not right. By time I did my 5th I was getting good. I would try rebuilding the bimmer trans only if I had a spare sitting around, or rebuild the spare and then pop that in a switcheroo before I tried doing the only trans I had.