Please help Overheating and no hot cabin air

[nariusb]

Two weeks ago I had done timing belt, water pump, termostat. Drove no problem until today. Yesterday I replaced the bulb inside envoiroment instrument cluster. Today start it up no heat and overheating after short drive or idle.
Could it be coolant temp sensor? Or did I do something while changing the bulb?
Changed the termostat - no change. The top hose gets hot when I shut the warm car off.

[Rodericb]

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be my radiator. A friend and I dropped in a new nissen radiator and the problem was resolved. Very straight-forward replacement. Just remember to bleed the system correctly. This too could cause the sympton you describe. I paid $179 for my radiator on eBay. :D




Two weeks ago I had done timing belt, water pump, termostat. Drove no problem until today. Yesterday I replaced the bulb inside envoiroment instrument cluster. Today start it up no heat and overheating after short drive or idle.
Could it be coolant temp sensor? Or did I do something while changing the bulb?
Changed the termostat - no change. The top hose gets hot when I shut the warm car off.

[nariusb]

No I haven't replaced rad, it looks in very good condition, and I had it flushed. I bled the air until the fluid came out from both holes according the instructions. Where is coolant temp sensor located? Could it be. Could faulty heating valves also cause overheating?

[632 Regal]

needs bleeding again or you may have a gasket problem. No heat/overheat is air cavitation at the waterpump.

[nariusb]

I'm bleding using bmwe34.net blowing at thi fill nect technique. The termostat hole took no time at all and I closed it. Now i'm blowing for 10min trying to bleed rad but bubles and fluid keep coming out. Should I keep on blowing? Should I keep fill container full to the neck while blowin or it doen't matter? Looks like I still do have air?!!!

[shogun]

that is the most important. See especially pic 2.
"massage" the hoses by hand that all air comes out.

click (http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_19.htm)

[nariusb]

I re-bled again and got the water circulating, my top hose is now hot and car is not overheating. But there is stil no heat in the cabin!!
I had car running for 10 min and nothing. Tried to play with all controls - still cold. Disconected valve power - still cold. Could it be that I did something to circuit board, sensors? while replacing backlighting?

[shogun]

Remove the plug connection from the hot water valves. If the valves then have no power, then should be fully open. By this you have at least hot air in the cabin.
When such thing happens, always check again those places where you worked before and when there was no trouble.
Also check all fuses inside engine room fuse box and under the rear seat. There are also fuses under the rear seat for the heating system.

[nariusb]

I already tried disconnecting valves and stil got no heat even though it should be opened fully. I will check the fuses but never got under the seat. How do I lift the seat?

[nariusb]

check fuses under rear seat look OK, there are now fuse specificaly for cabin heating under the seat.

[nariusb]

Thanks all - solved the problem. My cap wasn't tight enough and I was loosin a lot of fluid. It was 1/3rd empty. So my constant bleeding didn't help. I had to get the car hot fill it bleed, bleed, bleed and I've got the heat and no more overheating.

[632 Regal]

told you!

:D


I'm really glad it was as simple as that for you, some people are not quite so lucky! Go out and smoke one for me mann!