Inside rear tire wear with H&R Springs - help needed!

[BigKriss]

I been riding on H&R springs (with Koni shocks) for a while with stock 15" basketweaves and I like them. I terms of lowering height and firmness, I think they are an excellent choice.

On the rear (which are used), there is about a 1/4" gap between the tyre and wheel arches. There is 8" of travel from the diff to the ground. The fronts have a 3/8" gap betwen tyre and wheel arch.

When I see stock height e34's on the road now, they all look too high "ugly" (in terms of gap between tyre and wheel arch.

In term of stiffness, the ride is noticably firmer, you feel more little bumps on the road, flat roads are fine. Larger bumps, pot holes, definately feel more. I take speed bumps slighlty slower, the amount of travel for 99% is adequate for all road use.

The problem lies that I have checked the rear tyres and they are wearing on the inside noticably more than the outside.

I've looked through some threads and here are the things I can do;

- rotating the tyres
- KMAC camber plates (only 20 mins from where I live) http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=760
- eccentric bushings - http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=8402

Any help or comments are appreciated - thanks

[califblue]

I have the Sachs kit w/15" basket weaves w/ 225/60 Sport SP DA2 Dunlops and in 10K all is good I rotate every 5k

[632 Regal]

have to rotate the tire from one rim to the other so that the inside rides on the outside or the tired will fail at about 1/3 their life. This is a standard feature and even happens with stock springs. A handling option (that you cant change).

[bimmerd00d]

welcome to the lowered rear spring club. I switched to stock springs on the rear to fix that.

[Mobius]

- KMAC camber plates (only 20 mins from where I live) http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=760I know they offer these for the rear - but I can't for the life of me figure out how they could possibly adjust anything. In the front they make sense, the wheel moves on ball joints and moving where the shock is anchored will change the camber.

In the rear, though, the only joint is the one the singarm swings on - and there's only one axis it can do that with. I can't see how you could even move the shock in the camber plate - but even if you did, I can only see it putting stress on bushings and accomplishing nothing.

If anyone here has experience with them - do they actually do anything? How?