NE1 replace motor and transmission mounts?

[Russell]

Should the motor and transmission (auto) mounts ever need replacement? If so, how can you tell they are bad besides the obvious cracks etc. I assume there could be vibration at idle and at certian speeds.


I am just wondering if new mounts would help keep that "new/newer car" feel as long as possible.

I wonder how difficult it is to install the trnasmission mounts. Engine is not too difficult.

TIA

[Derek A.]

oil degrades the rubber. Generally you see more of a problem under load then you do at idle. Trans mounts tend to go more often than motor mounts.

[Kalevera]

My auto's mounts were cracked -- visibly destroyed (although there was nothing about the driving characteristics that would indicate that), and I had them replaced when the trans was swapped because I didn't want to do the work. It requires dropping the exhaust, having a bottlejack or trans/adaptor jack. Basically, the trans goes up, like in the MM replacement procedure, and the mounts come out.

best, whit

[Russell]

Do you need to drop the exhaust for all four transmission mounts? Also, I assume the engine mounts need to come loose as well

Any electrical cables and/or coolant lines need to me lossened or moved? Just trying to think of anything that might be a problem.

I appreciate your help.




My auto's mounts were cracked -- visibly destroyed (although there was nothing about the driving characteristics that would indicate that), and I had them replaced when the trans was swapped because I didn't want to do the work. It requires dropping the exhaust, having a bottlejack or trans/adaptor jack. Basically, the trans goes up, like in the MM replacement procedure, and the mounts come out.

best, whit

[Bill R.]

one motor mount that goes first, since the engine tries to twist when you get on the gas it compresses the mount on one side and pulls the mount on the other side, with hydraulic oil filled mounts like the e34 has it makes the most difference at idle, with new motor mounts the engine seems much smoother at idle. You should not have to drop the exhaust to change all 4 trans mounts if you have four, some only have 2 trans mounts, I would look before ordering them. Some like yours just have the crossmember thingie with 2 mounts. Trans mounts are much easier to change than motor mounts. You put a big block of wood under the trans pan to spread the load out so you don't dent the pan and then you support the trans with a floor jack or bottle jack while unbolting the crossmember to change the trans mounts. This is all assuming the car is up high enough and on jack stands to work under it. The engine mounts do not have to be loosened to change the trans mounts.








Do you need to drop the exhaust for all four transmission mounts? Also, I assume the engine mounts need to come loose as well

Any electrical cables and/or coolant lines need to me lossened or moved? Just trying to think of anything that might be a problem.

I appreciate your help.

[Russell]

FYI, Per my ETK for the 95 525i, My car appears to have four transmission mounts two front ones attached to a "holding plate" and two rear mounts attached to a "cross member". Think I will double check at dealer and BMA

Thanks again.



one motor mount that goes first, since the engine tries to twist when you get on the gas it compresses the mount on one side and pulls the mount on the other side, with hydraulic oil filled mounts like the e34 has it makes the most difference at idle, with new motor mounts the engine seems much smoother at idle. You should not have to drop the exhaust to change all 4 trans mounts if you have four, some only have 2 trans mounts, I would look before ordering them. Some like yours just have the crossmember thingie with 2 mounts. Trans mounts are much easier to change than motor mounts. You put a big block of wood under the trans pan to spread the load out so you don't dent the pan and then you support the trans with a floor jack or bottle jack while unbolting the crossmember to change the trans mounts. This is all assuming the car is up high enough and on jack stands to work under it. The engine mounts do not have to be loosened to change the trans mounts.

[shogun]

I did it 3 month ago on motor and trans and the idle is much smoother.
Very recommendable and the cost for the parts is not very much.

[Kalevera]

Russell - I have no idea re: 4 mount transmissions. Mine has two (4hp-22) and I didn't think of pulling the crossmember when I was considering doing it...I guess that would work (?) and make things much much easier.

good luck!

[RobPatt]

ordered from BMA.... very easy. just get up under there and look around you'll see it's not too bad at all.... right on the "EZ" scale w/dogbones. On my 93 there are 4 tranny mounts, the cross member wasn't much of an issue (I'm talkiing about a small 'tranny support' -type cross member..., easy to move around, don't need to move the exhaust, do need to gently support tranny as suggested earlier post... same w/engine. did make a difference at idle (but I still have some sort of annoying vibration which I think is a tensioner or pulley).


Russell - I have no idea re: 4 mount transmissions. Mine has two (4hp-22) and I didn't think of pulling the crossmember when I was considering doing it...I guess that would work (?) and make things much much easier.

good luck!

[Russell]

This will be on my list to do this spring. Today is above 50 degrees so it is wash day. First things first!



Should the motor and transmission (auto) mounts ever need replacement? If so, how can you tell they are bad besides the obvious cracks etc. I assume there could be vibration at idle and at certian speeds.


I am just wondering if new mounts would help keep that "new/newer car" feel as long as possible.

I wonder how difficult it is to install the trnasmission mounts. Engine is not too difficult.

TIA

[peterllo]

Check the condition of the exhaust hanger donuts. On my '95 the rubber hanger for the rear at the counterweight was cracked, the hanger had actually popped off its retaining hook. There was a noticable driveline vibration at 30-40 MPH. I replaced the hangers and bingo, no vibration. I also replaced the rear trans mounts which didn't look bad but were cracked.