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View Full Version : Installing my new Konis - quick help?



Mobius
02-15-2005, 07:54 PM
Finally I have time to put my new shocks in!

Except, ah.. What in the world are the instructions trying to tell me here?
http://home.comcast.net/~rjchristie2/SA/535i/koniwtf.jpg

Pour 50ml of cold water into the shock tube? Uh.. Why?


Also; for the rears, how does the rear hat self come out? I've tried before but I couldn't figure out the damn puzzle. ;)

632 Regal
02-15-2005, 08:00 PM
water? i heard of oil but wouldnt recommend water, burst the strut tubes in freezing conditions, looks like in the picture their showin a temperature deal above freezing so Id use oil.

your rear question i dont understand.

Mobius
02-15-2005, 08:03 PM
Stupid picture - I should have said 'fluid' because there's nada on that image to indicate anything about what exactly I'm supposed to be dumping in there.

Why the hell is there a snowflake then - does it matter that the oil[fluid] is cold?


-Second part; to get to the rear shock mounts (and for future knowledge) - how is the carpeted hat shelf removed?

632 Regal
02-15-2005, 08:05 PM
they say you can slide the carpet shelf into the car, I lifted mine up enough to get to the nuts on top. You have to remove the seat of course.

Mobius
02-15-2005, 08:07 PM
they say you can slide the carpet shelf into the car, I lifted mine up enough to get to the nuts on top. You have to remove the seat of course.
Okay. We'll see how that goes. Thanks!

Still not clear on the fluid in the shock tube situation though..

Rory
02-15-2005, 08:21 PM
Stupid picture - I should have said 'fluid' because there's nada on that image to indicate anything about what exactly I'm supposed to be dumping in there.

Why the hell is there a snowflake then - does it matter that the oil[fluid] is cold?


-Second part; to get to the rear shock mounts (and for future knowledge) - how is the carpeted hat shelf removed?
No need to take the rear shelf shelf off, simply slide the seatback forward and you can fit a 3/8" socket in there to get all three bolts loosened. You may need a universal joint to get the last one though or a socket wrench that has a "bendable" head.

As far as fluid for the front struts you should use oil (50 mL) in the housing. I believe that it is for heat transfer under extreme conditions but am not sure. That information came years ago from a very rebutable auto engineer buddy of mine. YMMV.

Best,
Rory

Mobius
02-15-2005, 08:25 PM
No need to take the rear shelf shelf off, simply slide the seatback forward and you can fit a 3/8" socket in there to get all three bolts loosened. You may need a universal joint to get the last one though or a socket wrench that has a "bendable" head.I should mention that I'm also trying to track down a incessant rattle underneath that shelf; so I want to remove it to locate the rattle. I figure if it makes getting to the shock mounts a bit easier, might as well kill two birds...


As far as fluid for the front struts you should use oil (50 mL) in the housing. I believe that it is for heat transfer under extreme conditions but am not sure. That information came years ago from a very rebutable auto engineer buddy of mine. YMMV.Makes sense; if only even just to displace condensated water in the shock tube and prevent rust.

I'll assume any typical engine oil will be fine - someone correct me if I should be doing something special here..

Thanks for the help. :)

Robin-535im
02-15-2005, 08:25 PM
My heiroglyphics are a bit rusty...

I think it says:
Pour pure arctic glacier water into this tube, and you can then use the strut as a makeshift motorcycle. The point value for this operation is three struts.

Mobius
02-15-2005, 08:29 PM
My heiroglyphics are a bit rusty...

I think it says:
Pour pure arctic glacier water into this tube, and you can then use the strut as a makeshift motorcycle. The point value for this operation is three struts.
haha!

Honestly; based on this shitty page of instructions; that might as well be true. They could at least put the little universal oil can symbol next to the thing that LOOKS LIKE a damn kitchen measuring cup.

Still - WHY the damn snowflake?! Is it supposed to convey "hey idiot, this isn't water because if you use water it'll freeze and break everything"?


I know where I've seen instructions like this before! IKEA.
That's it. Koni and Ikea must be the same company. I've bought a set of SHÖKKÊN for my car...

bimmerd00d
02-15-2005, 08:49 PM
I believe it's supposed to be oil. At least that's what it is for the stock Boge struts. I left the existing oil in mine.

Mobius
02-15-2005, 08:50 PM
For kicks; some other entertaining heiroglyphs from the stupid 'no words' instruction sheet:

I CAN'T FIND MY STRUTS! HELP!
http://home.comcast.net/~rjchristie2/SA/535i/koniwtf3.jpg

OHH.. Remove the old one.. I see..
http://home.comcast.net/~rjchristie2/SA/535i/koniwtf5.jpg

I don't know anything except this guy has a huge thumb:
http://home.comcast.net/~rjchristie2/SA/535i/koniwtf4.jpg

CAN'T I PUT IT IN MY TRUNK?!
http://home.comcast.net/~rjchristie2/SA/535i/koniwtf2.jpg

632 Regal
02-15-2005, 09:01 PM
Bet I dont upgrade to Konis! My Belsteins were gas shocks and them directions said to remove all the oil, are the Konis you got gas or hydraulic? maybe your lookin at the wrong instruction sheet?

Idonno man.

Robin-535im
02-15-2005, 09:09 PM
Sure you didn't buy struts for the fabled "RX-7 with an E34 Console"?

gale
02-15-2005, 09:53 PM
Here's a link for getting under the rear shelf, all you have to do is lift the front edge to get to the tops of the rear shocks:

http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_29.htm

It's for an e32 but an e34 should be similar except for the rear headrests(?)

The oil is for heat transfer and also serves as an anti-rattle medium if the bottom of the insert can slop around from side to side. Bilsteins that have exposed valve seat screws on the very bottom of the insert should not use oil since it can seep in and dissolve the seals. Aside from that, any other strut insert whether gas or oil that has a solid bottom, will use the token 50cc of oil, 30W or 10W30 or 10W40 will be sufficient. Just about any oil or gear oil for that matter shouldn't make any difference, but I personally wouldn't use synthetic from its propensity to leak, and a heavier oil will take longer for the strut insert to bed completely in the bottom of the outer tube. Too much oil and you'll be fighting getting the collar nut tight while it's trying to ooze out past the threads.

John B.
02-15-2005, 10:30 PM
I had the same question when I installed a set of Konis so I called Koni USA & asked them. The tech was aware how bad the instructions & said a light oil was fine.

Mobius
02-15-2005, 11:08 PM
I had the same question when I installed a set of Konis so I called Koni USA & asked them. The tech was aware how bad the instructions & said a light oil was fine.Excellent. Thanks.

Pretty sure I'm using the Mobil 1 10-30 that's sitting unused in my garage though - oughta be fine.

Dash01
02-16-2005, 02:25 AM
Could it be that the snowflake symbol represents something to do with pouring antifreeze into the strut for heat dissipation?

For what they charge for Koni struts, you'd think they could afford some decent instructions in various languages, including English, even though hardly anbody on the whole planet ever speaks in that rare tongue.

Mobius
02-16-2005, 04:57 AM
Could it be that the snowflake symbol represents something to do with pouring antifreeze into the strut for heat dissipation?

For what they charge for Koni struts, you'd think they could afford some decent instructions in various languages, including English, even though hardly anbody on the whole planet ever speaks in that rare tongue.
Seriously - does it really cost that much to have a damn translator translate the instructions into maybe 4 languages?

The kicker is that these ARE english instructions; see the words "new" and "original" in the pictures above? If they can use words to differentiate between the struts, you'd think they could bother to put "30-weight oil" or what have you next to the little measuring cup...

GS535i
02-16-2005, 04:00 PM
Add ~50ml (~2 oz) of light oil: this is a heat transfer media, because the insert would otherwise be insulated by an air space. I used dexron III ATF when doing a set of Bilsteins. No problem in the rear, as they are exposed shocks vs. contained inserts ( that's why the wording difference).
If you want a guess, the 'snowflake' could be a 'glyph for 'cooling', aka heat transfer.

pmlmotorsports
02-16-2005, 04:51 PM
I have spoken to Koni about there instructions, and they specify mineral oil for the front struts........hope this helps ....of course you can ask others if you feel my input is not proper as per Koni USA, they are based in Ky phone #859-586-4100

Mobius
02-16-2005, 10:14 PM
Thanks for the help everybody.

I got the passenger side done, but when I got to removing the top nut on the driver's side one, my 6mm allen socket completely shattered (yay craftsman!) - so I had to drive around on one new shock today since every hardware store is (amazingly) closed at 11pm.. Wonderful. ;)

On another note; the previous owner claimed the shocks were Boge - but the strut I pulled out of the pass. side was painted red. I'd thought the Boge shocks were plain black?

There's absolutely no other identification on the old strut. Which struts are red? I know Sachs are.. Huh.

Oh; and I think I solved a bit of my "good god my car is too low" problem. The old struts were actually pulling forcibly IN - when I had the spring compressed and pulled the top nut completely off; the piston forcibly sank down into the housing and now takes a good bit of work to pull out. How very odd.

pmlmotorsports
02-16-2005, 10:52 PM
some KYBshocks are red, Boge OE is now black, and has been for 4-5 yrs. Previously all Boge roducts were painted yellow ( like Bilstein) which is why they are NOW BLACK. I guess Boge didn't want to be "confused" with Bilstein.

pmlmotorsports
02-16-2005, 10:52 PM
some KYBshocks are red, Boge OE is now black, and has been for 4-5 yrs. Previously all Boge products were painted yellow ( like Bilstein) which is why they are NOW BLACK. I guess Boge didn't want to be "confused" with Bilstein.

Mobius
02-20-2005, 01:37 AM
some KYBshocks are red, Boge OE is now black, and has been for 4-5 yrs. Previously all Boge products were painted yellow ( like Bilstein) which is why they are NOW BLACK. I guess Boge didn't want to be "confused" with Bilstein.Solved my confusion when I got the rears off:
http://home.comcast.net/~rjchristie2/SA/535i/sachs.jpg

This explains the red front inserts.

It's comforting that the previous owner didn't even know what kind of shocks he was running.