warnng bong or gong sounds?

[Whit]

Warning bong or gong sound? I have some warnings that appear on my dash. "Side Light" "Coolant Level Low" and "trailer light" are among the ones I know that are not real issues. How do I get rid of false alerts?

[shogun]

That are the problems you have in the Philippines. AGAIN, my friend, first look into my website.
Cleaning all the contacts will help you.
Look for LKM and mustard relay on e32fixes.com
Look for PEAKE (search engine)
Easy stuff to solve.
Tip: check the voltage of battery and charging voltage

[Whit]

I have resoldered LMK and Mustard Relay. Headlights are working, but no luck with warnings. What contacts or connectors do I need to clean? Your site is a wealth of knowledge, but it is very large list of links and I don't speak German. A little help for an ignorant yank here? Thanks!

[shogun]

Is there a shop which can reset the warnings? Sometimes the warnings are still displayed for some time.
A reset (deleting) of the old faults might help.
Usually this is done with the diagnosis tool, which is inserted into the diagnosis box in the engine room.
If they do not have such a tool, try the reset method which is described on my page (English and German language). That means that you disconnect the battery for some time and the stored faults and other things are erased from the engine management.
That is just like 'cleaning' your computer from all interim stored values. In case of the V12 engine you have to make a re-synchronisation of the throttle valves. Instructions are on my page too in English on the reset page.
As you have a 750iL with electric rear seats, which are difficult to remove: try first the simple method: disconnect the minus/earth/ground wire from the screw at the front of the rear passenger seat. It sits under a plastic cover.
http://ow.no/images/stories/BMW/E32/19s_groundwire_cover.jpg
http://ow.no/images/stories/BMW/E32/20s_groundwire_cover2.jpg
http://ow.no/images/stories/BMW/E32/21s_groundwire_exposed.jpg
Then switch on the hazard lights for about 10 minutes or longer that all power is drawn out of the system. Set ignition to position 2.
Before you do that, remember the radio code and the anti-theft alarm code, if you have that. Also see the owners manual how to adjust the on board computer time and date, as it might flash with PPPP.

Remove the check control module (sits in the engine room in the fuse box and CCM is written on it) and spray it with a good electr. contact spray. Also remove the dashboard and do the same with the plugs at the back of it. How to remove the dashboard is described in detail in English on Johan & Sean's page on my page (there is a link).
Do one after the other, and simple things first.
The CCM is communicating with the dashboard and if the contacts are not that good, there might come up this warning.
As I said before, it is a matter of trying now. Hope you have success.
Let me know.

[Javier]

together in 1988, so may be any of the 8 bulbs, also there are four resistors in the LKM monitoring the lamps, any of them may be out of value. They are connected through X12 from: 26 to 9, 7 to 8, 27 to 10, and 28 to 11.

Trailer light does not mean much to me, first time I heard of them, may be this signal is referring to something else, high level stop light, for example??

As for the coolant signal, you may have corroded connections in the plug, at the level sensor, or a stuck float. Unplug the connector and short the pins, signal should disappear.

Also check/clean the pins and socket connections of the Check Control Module (Besides LKM).

Javier

[shogun]

I checked in the archives of roadfly and that explains some of the design and function of the check control and makes me suspicious that it's capable of causing false indications, Here some info on this:
click (http://bimmer.roadfly.org/e32/messages/archive/msgsy2002w12/53079.html)

Again, as also Javier says, first give all the contacts a good cleaning.

Trailer hooks are common in Europe (mainly Netherlands), but I have never seen a 7 series in Japan with a trailer hook. So I think your car had never one attached which was removed before shipping it to the Phil's.

[Whit]

Excellent! There IS evedence of a third brake light that was removed or a "higher light" that could have been used for trailers? It was on the rear glass and is now gone. Maybe someone knows if I should run a jumper to the old connector (or where it would be)?
Also, I only did some resoldering of the entire Mustard Relay and just SOME of the connections on the LMK (the small relays inside?). I will do the additional points near the pins suggested. Heck, maybe just resolder the whole LMK or most of it. I will also clean all the contacts that I can find and clean the CCM and let you know.
Also, I will see if a shop here has a reset tool or try the battery drain. Not BMW--they want to charge me $750 US just to work on it or to look at it at all. The fee because I did not buy the car there. Geez! Shogun, I have your exact stereo--is there a code on it? I don't think mine is anti-theft. Car produced 06/1988 according to a decoder. Thanks, guys!

[shogun]

as for the resoldering use the link on my page to e32fixes, that is the best one I can find at the moment.
Here a direct link, also see extra fixes
http://www.e32fixes.com/results.asp?page=normal&startat=0

Resolder the entire LKM as there could be haircracks which you can only see with a magnifying glass.
The US cars had a third brake light in the lower section of the rear window. But not in Japan, at least my one from 11/88 does not have one. But maybe they added it and then later removed it.
Javier: any idea on that matter?

My Sony stero does not have a code on it. So probably yours also not as car stereo theft was not a matter in those times in Japan. There are 2 small plastic caps on each side of the radio. Just remove them with a small jewelly screw driver. Then you can see on each side a metal clip which you have to push inside, hold it like that to the inside and then the radio comes out. Very easy, and only one cable connector plug at the backside. Just in case you want to remove the radio.
Try to order a PEAKE reset tools and fault checker from
http://www.peakeresearch.com
or from bavauto.com
Same unit, only the bavauto brand name on it.
That investment pays back very quick as you can check engine faults on your own. Reset/delete the the stored faults, reset engine oil light, reset service interval lights.
Or you buy one of the diagnostic interfaces from Ebay. But that requires a software, which might come with the interface, or which one can download "somewhere". And you need a PC with 2 RS 232 serial comports or an adapter. So something more for the PC fans and in the know of that.
http://search.ebay.com/BMW-diagnostic-interface_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8

Better is the one with a modified diagnosis cap original from BMW. There one cannot mix up the pin connections and can damage something by mistake. I bought this one. Not yet tried. Is lent out to a japanese friend who wants to try out on his laptop PC.
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=30921&item=7958663860&rd=1&ssPageName=WD4V

The advantage of this interface is that one can check out the whole body electr. controls, whereas the PEAKE is only for engine related or better to say emission related matters. The interface also can check for example stepper motor and microswitches in the doors etc.

In addition the PEAKE as well as the interface are somewhat limited on our old cars. For example on my old one from 11/88 I can read only abt. 18 or 20 fault codes, whereas cars built at later years show much more faults and details. That was the beginning of the on board diagnosis with our cars, so not yet that sophisticated.

[shogun]

Sorry, almost too much writing: But just one more hint:
The LKM-L controls the functions of the bulbs when they are on and when they are off. The LKM-B only checks them when the lights are turned on.
The 750 has an LKM-L.
It could also be just a simple thing, that the contacts of the bulbs or the contacts of the bulb holders are corroded or they do not give enough pressure at the contact surface, so that an error warning comes. Also bulbs of lower quality can also have such effect. Remove them all, bend the clips at the bulb holder tightly, clean the contact surfaces, change the bulbs if possible. Also check the lights at the side markers, and also the lights at the licence plate ilumination.

And careful with the long plastic holder/connector for the small parking lights in the low beam headlights. My ones were so brittle, they just fell into pieces when I wanted to remove the bulbs.
Costs abt. 10 $ per piece here in Japan, not that much, but I do not know if they have them available in the Philippines. I used a good glue and glued the pieces together including the small bulbs, till I got new ones from the dealer.
But the Philippinos are inventive, they surely can make one 'handmade".

[Whit]

Thanks for all the direct links! I will try everything a little bit at a time and keep you posted. Great info!