?! Didn't we talk about this one like a day or so ago?
Anyway, a pressure bleeder is a device that allows you to use compressed air to force the old fluid (and any air) out of the system. Instead of jamming on the brakes, you connect a device to the fluid reservoir fill cap and give it some air pressure (from shop air or...heck...a bicycle pump would probably do the trick). Bruno sells the device on his racingking.ca site; you can easily make one of your own (pressure gauge (not really necessary - but useful), NPT male, teflon tape, a T connector, and a cap for the reservoir), or pick a generic one up at the local auto parts place.
Be sure to remove all of the old fluid from the reservoir, then pour the new in (I usually fill it all the way up...it's just going down anyway since the pistons are mostly compressed with new brake pads). Bleed in this order: rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver. It's a good idea to check the reservoir fluid level as you go along, but there's enough in there to do AT LEAST the rears, probably all of them, before you top it off for a test drive.
Also, as was communicated last time -- *don't* turn BMW rotors. The OEMs are soft and once they've got a significant lip, they need to be replaced. It sucks, but that's part of the design. I'd rather stop right than not. Having said that, I recall reading that Don Gale did some minor resurfacing in the past with good results because he didn't want to buy new rotors (read his brake writeup).
Good luck!
best, whit