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Thread: Car overheating - help!

  1. #1

    Default Car overheating - help!

    Just came back from a short spin and when I got home the temp gauge was at 3/4 and going north, I switched everything off just before it hit red. I looked under the hood and no obvious coolant leaks. The top hose was very hot and hard while the bottom hose was cold (not even warm) and hard.

    The waterpump was changed 15K ago (metal impellar) but the thermostat has never been changed.

    The car has 70k on the clock and had never run hot before.

    Any advice much appreciated!
    Don
    525iA '95.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    baton rouge, loserana
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    Default

    id do the thermostat as it's probably stuck/broken
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    check the thermostat. Otto - German Car Parts Centre in Dublin sell good replacements. 01-497420. Mail order takes about 2 days.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by winfred
    id do the thermostat as it's probably stuck/broken
    I thought about the thermo but if it was stuck open the I would have thought the car would take a long time to heat up which is not the case, if it was stuck closed the upper hose would not be hot (which it is!)....what do you think?

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Eastern Tennessee USi
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    stuck closed or you somehow got an air pocket in there. Try to bleed it and see if any air comes out, if not then you should do the thermostat.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    NSW, Australia
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    Default

    Definitely a stat stuck closed but allowing just a trickle of hot coolant through.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mamilapon
    Definitely a stat stuck closed but allowing just a trickle of hot coolant through.

    Thanks guys, I will change the stat and let you know....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Sydney, Australia
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    Default Remember to drill a 2mm hole in the top near the arrow...

    Near where the arrrow points up, it'll help u to bleed the thing... u don't want to have to mess around... and u need an 80 degree thermostat for the 535- they cost $16 odd. GP

    Join the Aussie
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    08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    [QUOTE=genphreak]Near where the arrrow points up, it'll help u to bleed the thing... u don't want to have to mess around... and u need an 80 degree thermostat for the 535- they cost $16 odd. GP[/QUOTE

    not disagreeing or anything but is drilling the hole 100% necessary? i didn't do it to my new one and didn't have any problems???

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    drilling the hole just about eliminates the chance for problems in bleeding, it's almost vital on m20 525s imho because there such a bitch to bleed, but it's not necessary

    [QUOTE=Rory535i]
    Quote Originally Posted by genphreak
    Near where the arrrow points up, it'll help u to bleed the thing... u don't want to have to mess around... and u need an 80 degree thermostat for the 535- they cost $16 odd. GP[/QUOTE

    not disagreeing or anything but is drilling the hole 100% necessary? i didn't do it to my new one and didn't have any problems???
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

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