Is this a good buy? ('95 525i)

[Iron_Dreamer]

Hey everyone, I just got innundated into the E34 world today when I noticed an ad as I searched through Autotrader for a 95 525i with only 126k mi for $6000. Now mind you I was just looking for a good sedan in the $4-9000 range, to replace the Honda I lost in Katrina, and I didn't really expect a bimmer to pop up. The (rather drab, used-car only) dealership it is at was just a few miles down the road, so I figured I'd go take a gander. I didn't take too long (as it was a bit of a whim at the time), but I did give the car a good look, here's what I found:

The windshield had a rather extensive crack, going from about halfway up the driver's side A-pillar at a 45 degree angle until it met the roof.

No other immediately noticeable exterior damage, other than some paint coming off the (stock) rims.

Interior leather was in good shape all around, but the driver's side armrest was broken (flopped down).

The car started and idled nicely, though the display was saying something about coolant. I revved her up to about 5k, and she went nicely and smoothly.

I didn't look under the hood, take a test drive, etc. because I was pressed for time. However, in my short time with the car, I was quite taken by the comfort and quality as compared to the cars I've used before, enough to consider taking on the possibly maintenance-heavy bimmer over a more possibly reliable make. Since this afternoon I have done some research, and of course come upon this great webiste.

I already called a few places for quotes on replacing the windshield, and the average was about $250. I also located a good shop to have it checked out with in my area (Central Texas), from the iaibmwsp website.

As a noob, I am open to all the advice you guys and gals can heap upon me. I am a relative noob in general, only having owned 1 prior vehicle, and being a law student out of school thanks to that damned hurricane, so don't feel bad to point out something you might think is obvious, because it probably wouldn't be to me.

thanks!

[Kalevera]

I think you've got most of it figured out. The windshield price seems a little low -- the quote must not be for OEM glass.

Be sure to have it inspected, especially with the coolant check control message.

Where are you located in Texas? Barry Gibbs (nine eleven), Terry Sayther, and Lee Rector (black forest) are all very knowledgeable.

Get it checked out, buy it if you want to, and stay on top of the forum if you have problems. The people around here are usually able to offer pointers or solve an issue with lightning fast speed and accuracy

best, whit

[Iron_Dreamer]

Austin, and Black Forest is the place I was referring to. Nice to know I am in good hands there. Are there any specific common problems I should watch out for? I've already read about seeing if the coolant is blue, as well as the sunroof seals going out (any way I could check for that?).

[Gayle]

Prior maintence is a big deal on these cars. The cracked windshield and the broken armrest says to me that someone was hard on this car and didn't give a _____ about it. And how much effort does it take to add some water so you don't get the coolant level message?

There seem to be a couple theories about how to buy one of these cars.

One theory is to buy the one with the best body (most expensive repair) and then don't worry too much about the mechanicals and just plan to replace everything yourself as it breaks.

Another theory is to be insensitive as to miles and look for one that has been loved and given all the proper fluids. Maintence records are always a big plus.

e34 were built from 89 -96? There is no big advantage of a later one over an earlier one as long as you don't get the m20 engine. e34s are great cars. Widen your search. You can probably do better.


Check this:

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=13940


Here is good buying advice:

http://www.bmw4life.com/buyingE34.htm

And know what you are potentially in for:

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/troubl...will_break.htm

[uscharalph]

"E34 were built from 89 -96? There is no big advantage of a later one over an earlier one as long as you don't get the m20 engine. e34s are great cars. Widen your search. You can probably do better."

Hey I've got the M20 engine! OH! You're probably right!

[Kakaire]

Someone enlight me more on why he wouldn't get an M20 engine, any known unfixable issues one should be aware of, well in ma country M20's are rather common. thx

[Interceptor]

Someone enlight me more on why he wouldn't get an M20 engine, any known unfixable issues one should be aware of, well in ma country M20's are rather common. thx

They are belt driven, don't last as long as M30/M50 ones do, they lack power (130/170 HP in a heavy sporty sedan is considered underpowered)...

[brodee]

They are belt driven, don't last as long as M30/M50 ones do, they lack power (130/170 HP in a heavy sporty sedan is considered underpowered)...

I wouldn't say they don't last as long, it's a great motor if teh timing belt is changed. There are many e30's out there with over 200k miles on these engines. The are as you said underpowered in an e34 though.

[Gayle]

http://www.bmw4life.com/e34History.htm

having been the wife of an m20 owner, I can tell you that 168 hp leaves you wishing for more and I can tell you those timing belts do break


It is the same issue as there are no bad beers, only good beer and better beer. I would still prefer an m20 e34 to no e34, but knowing what I know now, it would not be my choice again.


And Ralph, your m20 came from a family member and had loving maintenance and came with papers. That far outweighs any of the negs of an m20. I just think if this guy is looking on used dealer lots, that would not be the way to go. (our m20 came from a used dealer lot, no papers)

[Iron_Dreamer]

Hmm, well I drove the car today, and it drove quite well, however I did notice that it seemed a bit sluggish until about 1500-2000 RPM, i.e. from a dead stop you press the gas and it only nudges forward for a second, then springs into action. It pulled hard from 2000 to redline though. Is this just how these cars drive? For instance my old Honda CRX was faster off the line, but not nearly as fast as the bimmer from middle-rpm's up.

Also, I noticed a slight "clunking" sound coming from the front passenger side when traversing rough terrain. The dealersaid he had replaced the shocks and control arms, as well as the bushings. Are there other suspension parts that could be causing this sound?