Two things to check first: the Idle Control Valve and the Throttle Position Sensor. The ICV can be removed and cleaned with carb cleaner, Goof-Off, or something similar. They can accumulate crud and fail to "flutter" like they're supposed to. The moving valve part in the ICV should be free to click audibly when you twist it back and forth on its axis. The ICV is a cylindrical object, painted black, about 5" long and 1.5" dia located just forward of the throttle body, with two approx 1" dia hoses connected at right angles to its business end. There's a connector at the other end with three wires in it.
The TPS is a switch on the end of the throttle plate shaft that's supposed to send a signal to the ECU at full open and full closed throttle. If it isn't closing properly, or closing intermittently at the idle end, you can get bizarre engine speeds even with your foot off the accelerator. You can test the TPS with an ohmmeter, however, be advised that they can be intermittent when they're bad. Ask me how I know that. Heh heh... Your TPS is a real pain to get to since it's underneath the throttle body. There are three terminals 2, 3, and 18. No, I'm not joking. 2, 3, and 18. 18 is common. You should have continuity to 2 at idle and 3 at WOT. When the microswitch at the idle end of the TPS ages it can become intermittent and temperature dependent. When I had trouble with the one in my 535 it would test out OK after it had set a while or if it was cold. When it got warm it would fail to close and the idle speed would vary all over the place, up to 3000+ RPM. On the other hand, this behavior should be independent of A/C operation, so it's possible that none of this will help you out. But, these are pretty easy to check and are often the cause of idle issues, so if I were you, I'd start here.
BTW, there is no idle speed adjustment. Don't even try. Speed is set by the ECU electronically through the drive to the ICV.