Question about bleeding and radiator hoses

[granit_silber]

Hey Everybody,

I finally had a chance to get back to my cooling system. I refilled my radiator and began to bleed my cooling system. I let the engine warm up at idle and sitting on the ramps that have become a fixture in my driveway this week. During the warm-up, the tempertaure gauge never went higher than the 3/4 mark and stayed between the 1/2 and 3/4 mark. When I opened the bleed screw I got a few sputters and then steam. No fluid. also while the top radiator hose was hot is never seemed to harden up, it was very easy to pinch. Same with the lower hose (although it was cold not hot).

I still have a small leak from the housing (see my other post), but shouldn't the hose be building internal pressure?

-ashley

[uscharalph]

Hey Everybody,

I finally had a chance to get back to my cooling system. I refilled my radiator and began to bleed my cooling system. I let the engine warm up at idle and sitting on the ramps that have become a fixture in my driveway this week. During the warm-up, the tempertaure gauge never went higher than the 3/4 mark and stayed between the 1/2 and 3/4 mark. When I opened the bleed screw I got a few sputters and then steam. No fluid. also while the top radiator hose was hot is never seemed to harden up, it was very easy to pinch. Same with the lower hose (although it was cold not hot).

I still have a small leak from the housing (see my other post), but shouldn't the hose be building internal pressure?

-ashley

As the bleeder screw is open, you need to still keep adding coolant slowly until you're not getting any more bubbles / air coming out. Then replaced the bleeder screw and radiator cap, turn the car off and let it cool back down (Below normal). The bleed again and again and maybe again.

[granit_silber]

As the bleeder screw is open, you need to still keep adding coolant slowly until you're not getting any more bubbles / air coming out. Then replaced the bleeder screw and radiator cap, turn the car off and let it cool back down (Below normal). The bleed again and again and maybe again.

Ralph,

Thanks!
What I did was fill the radiator with the engine off and then start it and worm it up. So now what I do is open the radiator (cold of course) and fill it with the engine running. Is it possible to overfill the system and cause damage, like overfilling the oil?

-ashley

[uscharalph]

Ralph,

Thanks!
What I did was fill the radiator with the engine off and then start it and worm it up. So now what I do is open the radiator (cold of course) and fill it with the engine running. Is it possible to overfill the system and cause damage, like overfilling the oil?

-ashley

You can't overfill the cooling system. You want it full with no air pockets.

[E34-520iSE]

You could use my "quick n dirty" bleeding method. It gets a few frowns from other members here but works in minutes. It involves opening the bleeders, topping the expansion tank up, and blowing (yes really!) the coolant through the block and through the heater matrix, getting rid of that nasty air lock that collects between the matrix and the heater valves. It works on ANY engine, Ford, Vauxhall, Fiat etc. Just keep topping up during the process. DISCLAIMER:-ANTIFREEZE IS POISONOUS, USE YOUR COMMON SENSE! Now I'm in for some abuse...........!

Cheers,

Shaun

[granit_silber]

I think it's done!

During several quick trips (longest was 2-3 miles) the needle stayed one needle's width above the 1/2 mark. And the leak has gone from a steady trickle to a drop so infrequently that I can't tell if it's residual or a tiny-tiny leak.
The hoses were still easy to pinch, but the top hose was really hot and the lower hose was cool.

Am I done?
-ashley

[Torque]

I think it's done!

During several quick trips (longest was 2-3 miles) the needle stayed one needle's width above the 1/2 mark. And the leak has gone from a steady trickle to a drop so infrequently that I can't tell if it's residual or a tiny-tiny leak.
The hoses were still easy to pinch, but the top hose was really hot and the lower hose was cool.

Am I done?
-ashley

I always thought the needle was supposed to be right on the 1/2 mark or slightly below it. I guess what you got is good too, because it's been like that in my dad's m50 525 as long as we've had it.

[E34-520iSE]

Check that the hose that runs from the heater matrix to the thermostat housing is hot, as well as the "back of head" water pipe being hot. That way you know that your heaters & water pump are working and any trapped air is in the top of the rad. Temp guage should be 1/2 way up only. You'll be losing water/steam through that hole so it's wise to fix it!

HTH,

Shaun

[uscharalph]

I think it's done!

During several quick trips (longest was 2-3 miles) the needle stayed one needle's width above the 1/2 mark. And the leak has gone from a steady trickle to a drop so infrequently that I can't tell if it's residual or a tiny-tiny leak.
The hoses were still easy to pinch, but the top hose was really hot and the lower hose was cool.

Am I done?
-ashley

The needle on my BMW stays a hair to the right of straight up and never moves. Clean around the leak really well in the next fesw days to monitor if it's really still leaking.