Locked steering wheel - ignition lock failure?
Reply With QuoteCheck my posts and those of others on this topic: Probably it's caused by a sheared aluminum pin in the steering lock camshaft, which debris jammed the st. lock camshaft lobe, which slides in a groove inside the st. lock barrel. PM me your email address, and I'll send some pics of mine, which is a '90 535ia.
If you can turn the key at all, the trouble is prolly not your ign. lock, but internal jamming of the steering lock. (If it were the ign. lock itself, the key would not turn at all, since the internals act to prevent or permit
initial rotation of the key--if key rotates, then that tells me the ign. lock internals are OK.)
In any event, you need to turn the key at least 60 degrees so the release latch holes will line up for insertion of a paper clip or allen wrench. papercip is better. If she won't turn the 60 degrees, you cannot remove the ign. lock to get access to the steering lock innards. In that case, you'll need to remove the whole steering lock assy. from the car, whick entails disconnecting the battery, removing the airbag, steering wheel, plastic housing, and lower (knee) kick panel on the dasboard. READ AND HEED ALL CAUTIONARY NOTES ON DISCONNECTING AND HANDLING THE AIRBAG. READ THEM AGAIN. You can use a Dremel tool and ceramic disk to notch the shear bolt on top of the steering lock assy, and then unscrew/re-use it with a flat blade screwdriver. A mirror help alot with this procedure, which is akin to dental work.
BMA sells replacement parts, ~$58 for ign. lock already set for your old key; ~$110 as I recall for steering lock, etc.
If it's in fact the steering lock, replaement is not needed--rather clean out the debris and re-assemble. A disposable plastic dental mirror, Dremel tool, clean rag, graphite, heavy duty paper clip are required.
Like mine, your car quit in a good location. That's what they do if we're nice to them.
