Few E34 problems. Any ideas? Clutch pedal is main problem. Read on!

[Beastly_Bavarian_Beauty]

Hi guys. Am new to the forum. I own a 1993 BMW E34 5-er. Manual, with the 2500cc 24V 6-pot M50 VANOS engine.

Bought the car nearly a year ago, customising it. Very happy with it. So much better than any other car i've driven in the past. Complete driver's car. Can't see myself going back. Next step: - M5.

Car has been great. Only problems being jobs which i've done myself such as replacing rotten fuel tank fuel pipes, blowing exhaust and trying to remedy the typical 50-60mph wheel wobble and instability. Think my suspension will need a look at pretty soon. It is lowered, so do expect negative camber wear present on the rear driven wheels especially. It is -2degrees on the OS rear, but a heavy -3degrees on the NS rear, quite a big difference and is chewing tyres up. Thinking that it must be knackered bushes, but not sure. Any ideas?

It is also riding on a staggered setup of Rondell 18inch #58's on low profile Continentals - 10J rear, 8.5J front. Was getting ALOT of steering vibration until I fitted the correct spigot rings. Cured most of it, but still evident at the 50-60mph range. Have heard that this is down to the poorly designed front suspension and basically best way to sort this out is to replace all the suspension linkages/bars for new with M5 control arms and 750i bushings all the way through. This sound about right? What is this common steering jutter caused by on our E34's?

Now... the main problem... everything was as normal this morning. Car driving great as usual. Got into it tonight and it didn't feel right. Driving experience seemed unusual. Narrowed it down to the clutch pedal/operation. After taking a closer look when I pulled over I managed to get a better idea. Basically at rest... the brake and clutch pedals have always been level with each other. Well... now the clutch pedal is at rest around 2-inches higher than the brake pedal. So when operating the clutch I have much further to press the pedal and this extra two inches feels very effortless, just spongy. Have any ideas what this could be? My own guess would be a dodgy hydraulic pedal ram? Not sure on the clutch setup on this car yet, so just a guess.

Not only that, but the clutch feels as though it is actually operating differently. Where as the clutch operation had always had a broad operating window all the way down the pedal. It is now all "compressed" into a narrower operating band at the very end of the clutch pedal stroke. Making it very difficult and different when changing gears, giving the action of changing gears very sharp and clunky as there is not that forgiving "lee-way" that was present on the system before.

Anyway, hope you guys can point me in the right direction. And hope I have explained myself well enough. Tried my best. Cheers all

[DaveVoorhis]

I don't know why the pedal height would change unless there's a problem with the pedal mount or the actuating mechanism, but your symptoms sound exactly like what happened in my 520i when the slave cylinder failed. Check your clutch fluid level. If it's low or gone, you've got a bad master or slave cylinder. Look for leaks from the slave and the master.

[Beastly_Bavarian_Beauty]

Came to the car this morning. Started it up. Pressed clutch pedal down... and it stayed down upon release of it. Have to help it back up with my foot. When the pedal is pressed down... even all the way down... I can't now select gears. Any gear. This must give people a better idea of what it could be now???

[Alexlind123]

You should probably install an adjustable rear camber kit to your car if it is lowered. The only catch is that you have to remove your subframe to do it.

[Paul in NZ]

I don't know why the pedal height would change unless there's a problem with the pedal mount or the actuating mechanism, but your symptoms sound exactly like what happened in my 520i when the slave cylinder failed. Check your clutch fluid level. If it's low or gone, you've got a bad master or slave cylinder. Look for leaks from the slave and the master

I think this giuy has the answer
As for the front suspension the first fix to try iis the thrust arms complete with M5 or 750 bushings.I dont know why our cars are so sensitive to ANY front wheel anomolies

[Beastly_Bavarian_Beauty]

Daft question guys... but where and how would I check the clutch fluid level? Under the bonnet I have located the Power Steering (ATF) bottle at the front nearside side of the car. The brake fluid bottle (DOT4) offset just behind the ATF bottle. The only other one is on the offside side of engine bay around the centre. This is labelled at requiring DOT 4 fluid. Is this the clutch fluid sump filler?

If not then where is it and how can I check? Cheers all so far!

[DaveVoorhis]

The only other one is on the offside side of engine bay around the centre. This is labelled at requiring DOT 4 fluid. Is this the clutch fluid sump filler?

That's it. From your description, it's very likely that the slave cylinder has failed.

[Ausmpower]

Fukem5 is that YOU?

If not...... get it towed to someone who knows what they are doing and get them to diagnose the popped clutch slave or master cylinder.

Seeing as you don't seem to be able to find the clutch reservoir I suggest you get them to recharge your flux capacitor and inspect the small thermo nuclear device under the left hand rear fender liner as yours appears to be leaking slightly affecting your intelect.

[hatched91]

i had to replace my slave cylinder. but like a dope i replaced my master cylinder first, which was much more difficult to do. turns out it was fine. i think the slaves going out is a common problem.

[ray364]

It Is Your Slave Cylinder,beasty