Battery Killer Found !!!

[Happy_Go_Lucky]

but now I need to know why I've had an ongoing problem of the battery dying. Sometimes overnight, sometimes within 3 days of non-use. When I bought the car, the radio had been ripped out by thieves, and I bought a good Bekker that had been tossed from a Merc, and had this fiited by a so-called professional audio shop. Diagnostics found that the car would pull upwards of 380mAmps in sleep mode. I aventually traced it to fuse F41 under the rear seat, which lowered the draw to less than 50mAmps when pulled. This fuse is labelled "Super Audio System" and no doubt feeds the amplifier in the trunk. Now I have no radio Thoughts on this, anybody. Possibly the Bekker is incompatible, or the shop did a duff job, or the amplifier has gone south. Bright side, at least now I can sleep knowing the car will start in the morning

[pingu]

Some amplifiers have a "remote" input which allows the dashboard unit to remotely turn the amplifier on or put the amplifier in low power (standby) mode. Seems to me you can either see if you can use a remote signal, or alternatively rewire the amplifier power lead so that it only gets +12 when the ignition switch is set to "on" or "accessory".

[Alexlind123]

You could just wire a separate switch for the amp.

[Flamin'Cow]

Sound to me like the 'professional' Audio shop has botched-up.

I used to work in a PROFESSIONAL AUDIO SHOP and you wouldn't believe some of the bodge-jobs people (and other employees) did....

Anyhoo - Most head-units have 2 power wires. One is a constant live (to supply memory functions and the clock) the second wire only becomes live when the ignition is turned on. It MIGHT be that they have chopped and spliced the two, meaning that the head-unit is powered up ALL THE TIME. Quick test - take the key out of the ignition and press the 'ON' button on the head-unit.....if it turns on - that could be your problem.

IF NOT

Then its likely that they have bodged-up somewhere. They might have crossed the remote with a constant 12V source, meaning your amp is on all the time. - Check the voltage on your amp's remote with a multimeter - if you are getting a reading with the ignition off - there is your problem.

IF NOT

Then its likely they have buggered up the wiring. Head-units are held in place by something called a 'cage'. If any +pos wires touch this cage, this will cause a short and a constant drain on your battery. Take out the head-unit and make sure that no wires are scrunched-up behind the console. Also ensure that there are no exposed bits of wire - if there are cover them with 'insultion' tape cos guess what - THAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM!

Hope that helps.

Kind regards

FLAMINCOW

[Alexlind123]

I hate "shops", its too hard to find one that actually cares about their work.

[Flamin'Cow]

Aint that the truth - I do 'Free' installs for all my mates now, well 'free' but they can buy me a pack of Lucky-strike and give me beer whilst I work....

[632 Regal]

LSMFT

Aint that the truth - I do 'Free' installs for all my mates now, well 'free' but they can buy me a pack of Lucky-strike and give me beer whilst I work....

[Flamin'Cow]

Err, you'll have to excuse my lack of knowledge with respect to Internet slang, but what does 'LSMFT' mean?

[Bill R.]

.

Err, you'll have to excuse my lack of knowledge with respect to Internet slang, but what does 'LSMFT' mean?

[Flamin'Cow]

Ahhh, thankyou - and yes - it is a damn fine smoke....