Thanks for the info. I will keep an eye on it on my way home from work tonight.Originally Posted by Zeuk in Oz
Ha... Done it couple time, on almost all my cars, with no problems... I have Brembo x-drilled rotors in front and just changed the front pads this summer. The rotors were well within specs and looked good. I didn't even take them off....Originally Posted by silver-e34
I believe it's all in the breaking period...
Jeff
I prefer to be misunderstood rather than having to explain myself all the time...
Thanks for the info. I will keep an eye on it on my way home from work tonight.Originally Posted by Zeuk in Oz
Excess within control...
1995 BMW 525i
I change the rotors as a matter of course every time I do the brakes. When I bought my first BMW, I had the "well I've never done this on any other car" mentality. First time I took the rotors to a machine shop, they told me they could not turn them (which I DID do with every other car). This is because if you measure the new rotors with a caliper, they are built to spec. No extra metal to take off. Being stingy, I tested it. I found that I could never make it to the next brake change without developing a shimmy of some sort while stopping.
So based on lazyness, I now change the rotors every time on the front so I do not have to take the wheels off a third of the way through the second set of pads. It's amazing what spending a nominal amount of money will do to keep this from happening.
That being said, I let my rears go twice since I can not feel the effect.
Where can I purchase these $20 BMA rotors?
BMW 525i
2 mm?Originally Posted by pundit
thats HUGE!
Germans: Why can't they make everything?
im looking at doing this to my car also, im thinking of putting drilled and slotted brembos on the front, and drilled in the rear, ive helped with a few brakejobs, and trust me, if your budget can allow, and you like to get into that gas, do at least drilled, also i believe a cooler pad lasts longer.
<br>
also check your rear rotors, it could be those that are warped, ive seen this happen on some larger trucks and suv's but i wouldnt rule it out for a bmw.
from what I understand which isnt much is the surface it heat treated and once cut the treating is gone. thats all I understand and dont know if its fiction or truth, the rotors are thin and excessive wear in a cut rotor makes sense, the hardness is gone.
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
The money is somewhat of an issue but long-term customer satisfaction and ease of repair play a role also. Using brand new rotors removes any hidden issues with the old rotors popping up later plus the mechanic doesn't have to wait for the machine shop to finish turning your old rotors. I've had machine shops rush the turn job and leave grooves like an old LP record. Ever heard brake pads go 'clack, clack, clack' down the street? The grooves grab the pads and slap them around in their mounts, not good!Originally Posted by boardburton
Change out your brake fluid while you are at it. You will be amazed at how much more abuse the brakes will take before they start fading. Remember, brake fluid absorbs water and water boils at 212 degrees which is way short of DOT 3 and 4 brake fluid. Plus the fresh fluid can help keep the rubber parts protected longer.
Brian
Sounds like my car, can the thrust arms be replaced without rebuilding the whole front suspension? Do you need any special tools (presses/pullers) to do the job?Thrust arm shimmy is usually felt between 45-55 mph, or thereabouts, and is usually worse under braking.
1990 535i
117,000mi
Feederick, MD
If it has **** or tires, you are going to have problems.