You could come here and we would "freeze-dry" those germs right out of you....and get some shoveling exercise too!
posting this weekend, but I'm sick and bored so i'm posting... I have a cabriolet waiting for me tomorrow though so i won't be around to bug anybody then.
You could come here and we would "freeze-dry" those germs right out of you....and get some shoveling exercise too!
Bill
I love it that someone else does that too, especially someone of your stature. When I am on a detailing binge or some other work binge, I end up having to comment on everything, and then I get embarrassed at being a post whore. This thread makes my day.
Dinan chip, Bilstein sports w H&R, RD sways, RD strut brace, 750 bushings, Zimmermans/MetalMasters, O.E. M Pars, Eisenmann muffler
have been talking about the "heart attack" snows you guys are getting..
I had to turn the fireplace on last night here, it was a frosty 38f
Originally Posted by Jr ///M5
First, I'm sorry you're sick. Try this: Double shot of tequilla, some honey, and lemonade in a mug. Microwave piping hot. Stir and drink in front of the fire, preferably in company of a good dog. Repeat as necessary. Add Mexican food with jalopenos if really sick.
Now for the question: 5/16" bolts are seized in the aluminum thermostat housing of my old Ford. (Actually it's the alu. intake manifold flange that mates with the alu. thermostat housing.) The heads sheared off, despite plentiful PB Blaster, etc. and counter-torquing. I suspect electrolitic reaction fused the steel bolts to the aluminum housing. Easy-out not an option, since it would risk breaking off and compounding the problem. I've tried drilling out the bolt shafts with cobalt bits, which hardly do anything, even with cutting fluid appliedl. Diamond ball bits on Dremel tool work much better, but not well enough. I have not (yet) tried heating the work with a propane torch, for safety reasons. What sort of bit would be best to drill out the cat. 5 steel bolt shafts? Other ideas?
sounds like yours have, since grade 5 is usually not that bad to drill... then I would go with your second idea of a dremel but I use a dumore flex shaft instead that will take 1/4 inch shank carbide grinding ball mills. The dremel will have the same result ,it will just take a lot longer and a lot more patience. I think your right about it being electrolytically fused to the aluminum and you'll probably be grinding it out completely and helicoiling or tapping oversize
Originally Posted by Dash01
one of the least annoying posters.
I know I always go straight to your reply on any question, and bypass all the Regurgitaters and misinformation masters
Vee ave vays of dealing vid your kind...........
I can usually drill out any hardened steel bolt bits left in. that aluminum/steel superglue effect is awesome, too bad it didnt work on oil pumps and banjo boltsdrill it the best you can cause you wont be able to remove it by turning as you mentioned. Once I drill them out softof accurate, I pick the threads out a little at a time, they are definetly bonded. Last one I did took about an hour just to pick the threads out.
edit: sure them bits your using are sharp?
95 E34 530I V2.37
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Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
I wondered why you were posting more... hope you feel better in your cold snap of 38 degrees...sheesh.
for colds, actually for the past few years I have been taking biocyanidins (1x a day) 1000mg vit C (2x) and grape seed (2x) had two colds in the interum and those were gone in a day. When I feel a cold comming on I double up on these. Havent needed a doc in 4 years.
ps, Bill, did you ever see snow in real life? (videos and movies dont count).
Originally Posted by Bill R.
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy