Originally Posted by
stevebuk
I'd be wary of resisitance measurements when the DME is powered - I'd be inclined to measure the voltage between battery positive and pin 1 of the DME you should get 12 volts if the DME is switching.
I can test pin and battery positive tonight but I'll do you one better: I found 12 volts between fuel pump relay socket 86 and socket 85 (which directly connects to DME pin 1) while the DME was plugged in and powered. But I think the reason the relay still wasn't switching was the amperage.
Originally Posted by
Bellicose Right Winger
The "impact switch" mechanism that shuts off fuel pump in an accident should be looked at. It sure seems odd though that there would be multiple problems, that is a bad CPS and something else.
I would like to hear more about the impact switch or crash control module but I don't think bahnstormer wanted to scan 500 more pages of wiring diagrams, and the diagrams I saw showed it working mainly for hazard lights/relays.
It does seem odd that there would be multiple problems but it's not impossible either. I could very easily have ruined something in all my electrical testing or sensor replacement. I am still baffled as to why the fuel pump wouldn't even run after I put the key in the 'run' position.
My friend Jerry Rigger says I could jumper a small ground wire to the fuel pump relay socket 85 wire to get the relay to switch when the key is in 'run.' Furthermore I could take out all the slack in the wire and attach a 5 oz weight to the center. If the car were in an accident of significant magnitude, the weight would pull the wire and disengage the fuel pump: mechanical fuel pump safety feature.
Whaddya think?
Job 14:1 Man born of woman is of few days and full of trouble.
az