Sold the 525i, looking at a 540i

[hk20000]

what do I look for in it? It's black leather on green body. Some visible "bad repair" body work but it sounds and moves ok. the 525i was too slow for me and I needed something better.

it's a 1995 MY 540i that's made in March 1994. 540i automatic.

it's an auction vehicle.... the 540i is notorious for its nikasil engine failure is there anyway I can check if the engine has been replaced?? Also what are other common things I can look for in person?

here are some pics of the car:




another 2 things I want to know very bad:
is LSD standard on a 540i? Or ASC+T is standard? Is there a chance that it has no ASC+T and no LSD either? (coz that would totally suck)

and do they have a GM transmission like the 525i? Those things last forever but slips like WD40....

[Tiger]

How much would that car sell for at auction? Dealer only auction?

With automatic, there are two ways... if no traction control, you will get LSD. If you do have traction control, then no LSD. Seeing if car has ASC+T is easy.. there is a switch by the shift level under the ashtray.

540i uses ZF 5HP30 tranny only.

Engine block... only way to see if you take out bottom cover and read the engine block. Other than that, vibration test... start car up cold... leave driver door open. If door shakes up and down like (I mean vibration harsh ), bad block. This V8 is kinda smooth lumpy engine as it is high RPM peak torque of 3000 RPM so it will kinda idle lumpy.

[hk20000]

is it positively bad if it still has a nikasil engine in it? Like "eventually it will blow up" kind of bad?

thanks.

[bbig119]

is it positively bad if it still has a nikasil engine in it? Like "eventually it will blow up" kind of bad?

thanks.

No. But if it has a nikasil block, is there any way to have it compression tested to determine the state of the engine? If the engine is ok now, chances are that it'll won't be what kills the car down the road.

Another way to find the block number is to take an extending mirror and if you have decent light, should be able to read it off that way.

Do a stomp test to see if there are any codes the car has thrown recently.

[hk20000]

can you give me a brief down on what's a "stomp" test?

[RallyD]

Fault codes can be read by turning the ignition key on and fully depressing the accelerator pedal to the floor five times in five seconds. The Check
Engine Light will then remain on for five seconds, blink off, come on for 2.5 seconds, then go off for 2.5 seconds. At this point, the fault codes
will begin to flash.

If more than one fault has been detected, each code will be separated by a 2.5 second pause. When all the fault codes have been displayed, there will
be a 0.5 second flash and then the light will remain off. To read the codes again, turn the ignition key off and then on again. Depress the accelerator
pedal to the floor five times quickly (within 5 seconds). The codes will begin to repeat.

To erase the fault code memory, first make sure that the fault code 1000 (short blink and light goes out for a long period) is present, then depress
the throttle fully for at least 10 seconds. Reactivate the fault code memory as described earlier and check for the 1444 code (no faults stored).

from http://www.bmw4life.com/stompTest.htm

[Tiger]

No... my car has Nikasil... no problem. We did a survey on all 540i owner with Nikasil engine... 80+ % of us have no problem with it. If it survived this far, it won't be a problem in future. The catch is if the engine is okay before you buy it.

To really test the engine, you have to perform a leakdown test. This is the only way to tell if engine is good or bad.