M60 Valve cover and Intake gasket parts list

[e34musician]

Thanks MBXB for your PM and pictures.

I'm stuck The Torx 30 screw that holds the cable bracket to the throttle body was already striped when I first saw it. I was able to remove the other one. But this one will need a vise-grip (my vise-grip is too big to get in there).

I was trying to remove the accelerator and cruise cables through slot as some suggested. But how could you get the metal knot at the end of the cables through the slots on the bracket. Please let me know.

I'm going out to but a long nose vise-grip right now. My parts will be in on Tuesday. I try to take everything out and clean them this weekend.

Thanks in advance guys!

[MBXB]

Is this the Torx you stripped?

http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/49...500x500Q85.jpg

Thanks MBXB for your PM and pictures.

I'm stuck The Torx 30 screw that holds the cable bracket to the throttle body was already striped when I first saw it. I was able to remove the other one. But this one will need a vise-grip (my vise-grip is too big to get in there).

I was trying to remove the accelerator and cruise cables through slot as some suggested. But how could you get the metal knot at the end of the cables through the slots on the bracket. Please let me know.

I'm going out to but a long nose vise-grip right now. My parts will be in on Tuesday. I try to take everything out and clean them this weekend.

Thanks in advance guys!

[MBXB]

Torx on the throttle cables did the same thing to me.

http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/32...600x600Q85.jpg

[e34musician]

Yes, they are the 2 torx's on the cable bracket. The one that was already stripped (I didn't striped it) is the one closer to the cables. I was able to take the other one out w/o stripping it. How did you get around it? A vise-grip while it's still connected to intake which is still on top of the engine? Very limited space there. Wal-Mart did not carry the long nose vise-grip. I will have to go to OSH or home depot tomorrow morning.

Thanks for the pic again. That's exactly where I am at. Everything else went smoothly though. I still wonder how our friends here got the cable through slots on bracket. Anyone, please help. Thanks!

Torx on the throttle cables did the same thing to me.

http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/32...600x600Q85.jpg

[icehole2001]

For those of you who've done this job, how are you cleaning under the intake manifold? I want it to sparkle.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=717815

[MBXB]

Soaked it in sink full of full strength Simple Green; get the crevices with a stiff parts brush

[icehole2001]

I still wonder how our friends here got the cable through slots on bracket. Anyone, please help. Thanks!

I didn't have any trouble with the cables. Unless there's a difference in year models, you pull open the throttle plate and the cables should be able to pop out of the square holes. Then you slide them out the sides.

Soaked it in sink full of full strength Simple Green; get the crevices with a stiff parts brush

Thanks, but actually I was referring to the valley, not the underside of the manifold. Mines back together and running like a queen already, but I am still curious.

And beautiful car by the way. I like that you kept all the chrome. Cleanliness!

[e34musician]

Guys, thanks for all your helps. The new vise grip (big jaw) did a trick on removing that torx screw. It took me about a week (on and off) to replace intake manifold, valve cover gaskets and PCV plate. I bought a lot of new little tools while in progress.

I discovered that the intake manifold gaskets and PCV plates that were already on the car were fairly new. They must have been changed by PO who did not know much about car and did not keep the record. The intake gaskets were on with sticky black permatex - they stick on the engine when I removed the intake out. It was a PITA and time consuming to clean all the permatex out from the head without dropping anything into the valve train. The front gasket though is black (must be orginal one) and hard as rock. I'm glad I get to change them all. The engine looks very clean. I managed to break a few of the injector connectors when (already carefully) removing the 2 wire ducts. I put them back on OK with some elec tape.

The valve cover gaskets also look fairly new. But there were some oil in the plug holes, but not too much. I was surprised that the 22 bolts on the valve covers were not on very tight at all. This could be that the rubber washers are bad - they are old, flaten and hard. I brush off the paint on the cover where the gasket slots are before stalling the new gaskets and washers. Again, it's time consuming.

With all that, it doesn't fix my problem at all!!! It seems fine at first. But, 3 mins later, it goes up and down and the car stall. But I can start it right back up OK every time. Again, I still got the same code. I did figured out though that I can read more than one code by hitting the paddle another 5 times and I can now clear all the codes when I see the last code is 1000. The car still throw 1213 and 1222 codes and CEL is on intermitently. I tried to use cab cleaner to find the leak, but no luck. The fact that car can start right back up again after dying indicates that it is not fuel delivery system (fuel pump) - I used to have the fuel pump on & off problem on an old 85 accord. It did not start easily when the fuel pump is temporary out.

I spent a lot of time - I really mean A LOT - searching / reading through all the forums and posts. I ran into one post on "roadfy" that the car act exactly the same as mine. The owner changed a lot of parts and still the problem persist. After searching for 1 year, he finally found that it was MAF sensor that is BAD. So I gave it a shot today, I unplug the MAF (of course the CEL is now on all the time with a new code 1215). The result is the car ran very smooth and never stall again after ~25 miles of driving (freeway and local) I then tried to clean the MAF with Cab cleaner and cotton butts. Plug it back in, drive for 5 minutes then the car started to go rough and stall again.

Do you think I have found the curprit here? Or I am just patching the problem I am trying to understand the logic here. MAF intermittently sends wrong "air flow" message to the DME -> the DME trys to compensate it -> screw up the real mixture (too lean or too rich) -> idle goes really rough -> the car stalled with 1213 and 1222 codes.

Whatever it is. I will order my new MAF tonight. Is there any harm to drive the car without MAF plug in?

I LOVE THE INTERNET!

[e34musician]

After one week of sealing all the intake gaskets, PCV plate, valve cover gaskets, the problem still exists. My new MAF sensor ($270), new air intake duct ($74) and new little hose ($5) btw PCV plate and fuel regulator arrived today.

It was MAF sensor that is BAD. I actually installed the air duct and the new hose first to confirm that the problem is not air leak. The problem was still there.

I then install MAF and reboot, the problem was gone. The engine idle very smooth and no more gas smell from exhaust. Test drive went great - the car feels lighter somehow. I hope my MPG will also improve

It wasn't too bad. I can take the intake sealing as preventive items - I spent a lot of time and effort to do it though. I'm glad I found the curprit relately quick. Bottom line, I fixed my own car without taking it to a mechanics which make me feel so good

I can sleep well now. Next on the list is the front suspension.

[Ferret]

I'm so glad the diesel doesnt need a MAF or airtight manifolds