before you start buying parts i would recomend that you check the fuel relay and the main relay. could be something simple
i lost my bently so wouldn't be able to help you with test procedures for your CPS
Just completed major overhaul of M20 motor.
Ok, everything is put back together but now the car does not fire.
No spark, no fuel. (The car was running before the overhaul except it was running tired).
So Im thinking the crank position sensor could be damaged.
I had it out, and the jacket covering the 2 wires is cracked. I re-installed it not thinking that this cracked jacket which I think serves as a shield could be a problem - now I think it is.
I tested between pins 1&2 and got a reading of .55ohms. Between pins 3&1 and 3&2 are both open "OL" circuits. Pin 3 to the chassis ground is open "OL".
Isn't the resistance too low? and shouldnt I get continuity from the #3 pin to ground?
I have juice up to the coil, removed a spark plug and have no spark when it cranks, and I dont hear the fuel pump running.
If this sensor is not faulty, is there anything else I should check for?
For reference, new parts installed: rotor, distributor, ignition wires, water pump, headgasket, timing belt and pulley (triple checked the timing belt setup and adjustment and the marks match each time).
Any help is greatly appreciated. TIA
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before you start buying parts i would recomend that you check the fuel relay and the main relay. could be something simple
i lost my bently so wouldn't be able to help you with test procedures for your CPS
bilstin HDs, eiback prokit, K&N instert, DEPO fogs, sound system, zimmerman rotors, metal master
Are you sure you plugged the sensor into the right socket? I got caught out by that once! There was no spark, no fuel etc. If you need a helpful picture let me know.
HTH,
Shaun M
Ive considered that, but the length of the wires will not allow the plug to reach further back to the plug where the ignition current sensor plugs in.
So it cant be in the wrong position.
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Erm I'm stumped now! That was why M20 never ran after it's rebuild. The 'ground shield' on my sensor is also split, and has been for 4 years (45000 miles) now. In your case it really does sound like the most likely suspect. Have you checked the gap between the sensor and the front flywheel? Is the sensor nice and clean?
Shaun M
Tested CPS = 550ohms
Tested independently the coil, distributor/rotor, wires to see if there was a disruption in the high voltage path - none, I get spark.
Plugged the CPS back into the harness, cranked, no spark.
Im running out of ideas here. But Im convinced the CPS is ok.
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Just did that test last weekOriginally Posted by Kobe Diesel
How is the inductive sensor on the plug wire?
Vee ave vays of dealing vid your kind...........
Have you checked the circuit to the CPS at pins 47 & 48 of the DME? The wire colours (should be) yellow & black, according to the Bentley diagram.
HTH,
Shaun M
have not checked it DME
is there a pdf of the bentley manual?
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No BMW at this time, eyeing a 91 318iS. 00 Saab 9-5, 89 Bronco XLT, 05 Kawi Z1k, 00 Ducati 748S Bip
Sorry I can't figure out how to copy the page of the Bentley pdf that you need. Adobe acrobat will only only let me copy the whole document. Do a little googling and you should be able to find the complete manual somewhere. When you get it (it's a 64 MB download!) look at page 117 section 120-7. This shows the I/O connections of your DME.
Hope that helps,
Shaun M