GO FISHING, use SLABSAUCE Fishing Attractant
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Rear sway bar Links-Help!

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lexington, Kentucky
    Posts
    2,561

    Default Rear sway bar Links-Help!

    How in the do you get them on? I understand you lube and press them on. What type of "clamp" should I use. My drivers side is resisting a C-Clamp held with vise-grips. It is about 1/2 on with the sway bar rod almost through. Had to actually cut the old one off. Presently stuck. Help!
    Thanks,

    1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Bethesda, MD
    Posts
    385

    Default

    First, my recommendation is to take a rotary brush or something and clean off the end of the sway bar (where the links go) REALLY well. I spent literlaly hours trying to push the damn things on with every kind of grip possible, even after cleaning them with a wire brush. Then I took my dremel out and attached a wire brush attachment and did a hell of a cleaning job. Then to my surprise with a very strong push and someone holding the sway bar (pushing towards me) it finally went on smoothly. Then did the same on the other side and it worked.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lexington, Kentucky
    Posts
    2,561

    Default

    Thanks for teh suggestion. Wish I had someone to help. Even so there was no rust or corrosion on the sway bar end. I did clean and lube and it is half on. Not why it seems to be hard to finish the job.

    Going out and see if I can find some sort of press or clamp that should work. BTW, a small tie rod puller would have pushed the old linke off the bar. However, I forgot I had one until after I cut the driver's side link off.
    Thanks,

    1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lexington, Kentucky
    Posts
    2,561

    Default

    I ended up using a 4" 2-jaw gear puller to "pull" the link onto the sway bar. I clamped a pair of vise grips to the bar for a "seat" for the pointed /center part of the gear puller. Took five minutes each. I hope the tri-flow oil I used for lube does not mess up the link's functionality
    Thanks,

    1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,843

    Default

    hope it doesnt degerate the rubber...
    Quote Originally Posted by Russell
    I ended up using a 4" 2-jaw gear puller to "pull" the link onto the sway bar. I clamped a pair of vise grips to the bar for a "seat" for the pointed /center part of the gear puller. Took five minutes each. I hope the tri-flow oil I used for lube does not mess up the link's functionality
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lexington, Kentucky
    Posts
    2,561

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 632 Regal
    hope it doesnt degerate the rubber...
    I suspect the pressure pressing it on the bar squeezed most or all of the lube out.
    Thanks,

    1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    England (home) Germany (work)
    Posts
    256

    Default

    Just clean the surface, as suggested, and then soak the dog-bones/links in a bowl of hot soapy water, this provides all the lube needed and softens the rubber for a short while so you can just slip them on!

    As this is mostely an American forum, should i include a disclaimer warning about the possibility of burning from hot water or something!!...lol...


    Quote Originally Posted by nirvana19
    First, my recommendation is to take a rotary brush or something and clean off the end of the sway bar (where the links go) REALLY well. I spent literlaly hours trying to push the damn things on with every kind of grip possible, even after cleaning them with a wire brush. Then I took my dremel out and attached a wire brush attachment and did a hell of a cleaning job. Then to my surprise with a very strong push and someone holding the sway bar (pushing towards me) it finally went on smoothly. Then did the same on the other side and it worked.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lexington, Kentucky
    Posts
    2,561

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 525SEI BRIT
    Just clean the surface, as suggested, and then soak the dog-bones/links in a bowl of hot soapy water, this provides all the lube needed and softens the rubber for a short while so you can just slip them on!

    As this is mostely an American forum, should i include a disclaimer warning about the possibility of burning from hot water or something!!...lol...
    Thanks for the advice. I sure wish I had done the softening bit with heat first. I just did not understand how much of a pain it would be before i started. I also did not know that the choice of lube was important, sort of like subframe bushings. BTW, no disclaimer necessary

    BTW, did your 95 540i come withe brake ducts or did you add them? In the US only the 94 540i came with brake ducts.
    Thanks,

    1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    England (home) Germany (work)
    Posts
    256

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Russell
    Thanks for the advice. I sure wish I had done the softening bit with heat first. I just did not understand how much of a pain it would be before i started. I also did not know that the choice of lube was important, sort of like subframe bushings. BTW, no disclaimer necessary

    Only meesin!!

    Did it work?!!

    BTW, did your 95 540i come withe brake ducts or did you add them? In the US only the 94 540i came with brake ducts.
    To my knowledge all the UK and i think European 540's came with the ducts as standard, to distinguish them from the lesser engined cars. Can’t understand why you guys were robed of this feature, same as the rear headrests I guess!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Montreal
    Posts
    2,499

    Default

    lesser engines!

    We got rear headrests in Canada, my 1991 525 has them.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Meyle HD sway bar links
    By Bo525i in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 06-19-2013, 10:35 AM
  2. seems irrational -sway bar links
    By Russell in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-24-2007, 11:53 PM
  3. Help: Changing front and rear sway bar links
    By Alpinewhite in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-03-2007, 11:31 AM
  4. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-10-2007, 06:02 PM
  5. Symptoms of bad sway bar links
    By mbogosia in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12-30-2005, 03:52 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •