replacing the lower crank sprocket
Bill and others helped my through this a bit ago. Not too hard really but I did have the engine out of my car.
- removing the sprocket. The sprocket's held on via friction fit combined with a woodruff key or slot (can't recall which) to keep it from rotating. I pulled off the sprocket with a sears gear puller centered on the crank nose. Put the puller arms on the teeth of the sprocket until I pulled it forward enough to get the arms behind the sprocket. Tapped on the gear with a ballpeen hammer to help get it moving. The gear itself is very soft metal so expect that you'll basically ruin the current gear by doing this (there's no way back once you start pulling it).
- replacing the gear. This was fun. You'll need an old qt size pot, a quart of synthetic motor oil, a campstove or similar, a candy thermometer and a good set of pliers. Basically, you'll want to heat the oil bath and sprocket to about 300 degrees (Bill- that sound about the right temp?). Grab (carefully as so not to bung up the teeth - it's soft) the sprocket from the oil bath and quickly slide it onto the crankshaft. Hold it in place and wait about 30 seconds for it to cool. That's it.
Cheers!
Jeff
Bellevue WA
90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy