E32/34 sword repair info collection

[shogun]

Here are all info I found on sword repairs, pinout of the module for the control and other items related to this. Pls add if you have more links or info to have all here
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/136145/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/426626/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/425604/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/220273/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/91956/

sword repair pics by Shayne
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/355700/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/355705


http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/mainte...ical/sword.htm

[shogun]

sword/microfilter removal
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/54597

[shogun]

additonal info
fan blower and sword
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...ical/Sword.htm
and more
heater valve
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...eaterValve.htm
heating problems
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Heating.htm
R134a retrofit
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Upgrade/AC_upgrade.htm
parked ventilation
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Upgrade/Ventilation.htm

[shogun]

another success story with details
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/704823

[shogun]

There are now some diagrams on my website
Shogun's Repair Guides for BMW Seven Series
under reference data>>sword schematic

more here with plug pinout etc Heizschwert

[shogun]

and another one in German language, many pics main page http://proto-web.asuscomm.com/index-2.html
[FIXED] Repaired "sword", yet blower won't turn off when switch set to "0" https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...to-quot-0-quot

[shogun]

Yesterday I went to the bi-annual inspection to get a new roadworthy sticker. While the inspection was no problem and I got my new sticker after paying road/weight tax, suddenly the blower fan started to run only on full speed and even was running on full speed when I switched off the blower fan complete on the IHKA control panel.
When I came back home I removed the sword and connected another repaired one on the wire loom without installing it and that worked fine, installed it and blower fan works fine in all speeds.
To remove the 2 screws which hold the sword in place you need a long T20 screwdriver, a small T20 bit is not long enough, as the screws and about 2 cm deep in the casing/hole of the sword. http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e32/BMW_E32...tm_files/9.jpg
Sword and filter removal DIY http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/54597
Sword repair http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/355700/ http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/136145/
I have read from some electronic wizzards on the German forum following comments:
Best is to use BUZ11, they can stand more than the original ones.
In case the fan now only switches off while switching off the ignition, then one or several of the MOSFET's in the sword are defective and give permanent signal to run.This has nothing to do with the relay in the sword handle. This relay only activates at "max fan speed" adjustment respect. defects.
The BUZ 74 have 12A and 40 Watt, the BUZ11 have 25-30A and 75 Watt!
To cover the soldered items and protect them against moisture and damages, they either use UHU hard (if you have that in the U.S.), that is a glue which dries quickly,suitable for flexible material and all materials, moisture resistant and heat resistant from -50 to 100 degree celsius. Or any other glue to protect the soldered items. Or a 2-component glue, if you want to make it faster to dry. It should seal all to protect against moisture, that is the most important. And of course it must be resitant against certain temperatures as mentioned above. So any all purpose glue will do probably.

More info http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...rd-repair-info
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...Repair-Success
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-sword-MOSFETS
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/ihka/ihka.html
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_15.htm
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...i-Sword-repair
IHKA repair http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/402448/

[shogun]

Inside the Sword case you will see 3 capacitors marked 3.3 uF/50V. They are C1, C4, C5.

You can buy Panasonic EEU-EB1H3R3S capacitors from DigiKey.be for E 0,23 each. They are polarized, so there is a + on the board.
You could also order a variable resistor such as P160KNP-0QD20B50K

For testing on your workbench, a 50 watt headlamp is a more convenient load than the blower motor. (Big, heavy, and in your car!)

One terminal of the lamp goes to pin 5. The other terminal of the lamp goes to 12V.

Testing blower fan:
if you bridge 4 and 5 on the sword, blower fan must run.Even easier, connecting PIN 5 directly to ground has the same success. Or simply turn on the IHKA control panel the knob driver side into the MAX notch. Then the relay is switched through.
Is there voltage at the fuse? Also behind the fuse? If so, fan motor defective or cable broken.If not, might be a fault in the fuse box

[shogun]

New findings on this problem, that the blower fan does not stop:
German:
Ergaenzung: Heizschwert- Geblaese geht nicht aus. Nach dem hier nun oefters die Frage gestellt wurde, warum das Geblaese nicht ausgeht, obwohl der Schalter auf "0" steht, hier nun des Raetsels Loesung: Es ist der Leistungs-FET. Er ist durchgeschlagen, d. h. hat einen Kurzschluss. Test: In der Stellung "MAX" laeuft das Geblaese geringfuegig schneller als in dem Regelbereich. Das liegt an dem Relais, welches bei "MAX" die FETs brueckt. Um den defekten FET zu finden, muessen alle FETs ausgeloetet werden und wie in dem Anhang gezeigt, getestet werden. Mit zwei Fingern abwechselnd 1 und 2 (AN) und 1 und 3 (AUS) beruehrt werden. Es handelt sich um BUZ71, BUZ11 kann ebenso verwendet werden. Also auch diese Fehlervariante kann am Heizschwert auftreten.

Link with pic how to test: http://www.7-forum.com/forum/showthread.html?t=111467

English: Additional info: Heater sword does not stop the blower fan.....This question was aked before several times, why the blower does not stop, although the switch is on "0", here now the solution:

It is a defective Power MOSFET . It has a short circuit.
Test: In the "MAX" position, the fan runs slightly faster than in the control range. This is due to the relay, which bridges the FETs at "MAX". To find the faulty FET, all FETs must be de-soldered and tested as shown in the appendix. With two fingers alternately 1 and 2 (ON) and 1 and 3 (OFF) are touched. It is BUZ71, BUZ11 can also be used. So this error variant can occur on the heater sword too.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...to-quot-0-quot

[shogun]

DIY -BMW E34
M5 Blower Motor Replacement https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...or-Replacement
https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...placement.html
E34 530 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...or-Replacement
E38 http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/45351
E36 https://www.dvatp.com/bmw/hvac_blower

comment by demetk: The sword can fail without notice. On my failed sword I replaced the transistors but it still would not power the blower motor. Upon closer examination of the curcuit board I found and fixed some solder joint failures and it finally worked again. You can test for power to blower motor at the sword or at the blower motor. If you have power then suspect the blower motor. I usually apply 12 volts to the blower motor to test if it works.
Here's the locations of the broken solder joints I found,
https://i.postimg.cc/nh5s3qk0/sword_2.jpg