Old guy replaces thrust arms!

[Al Gray]

I am so proud of myself. I have done a bunch of car repairs but this was my first foray into front end work. My 1992 BMW 525i that my son, Sean, drives was doing the shimmy shake at 40 - 50 miles an hour. It got a little violent at times. The BMW website maintenance procedure for front end specified it was the thrust arms causing this problem. We ordered the parts (Lemforder of course) from Ives at BMA at $110 each. I also purchased a Lisle pickle fork kit ($45) from Sears that had 3 sizes of forks. Actually, the smallest one did the trick. In addition I purchase a 3 pound BFH for beating on the pickle fork.

After putting the car on jack stands and removing the wheels (I have a compressor and air tools which really help) I removed the big bolt from the thrust arm bushing with a 22 mm socket on a 1/2 drive ratchet. To initially break the bolt loose I used the 1/2 drive breaker bar and socket and for added leverage I slipped an 18 inch long by 2 inch piece of pipe that I call my Persuader. At the other end of the bolt I used a 22 mm combo box and open end wrench.

The biggest problem that I had was the correct positioning of the pickle fork. The best way was from the back of the ball joint and hitting it towards the front that popped it off. That was the driver's side. The passenger's side ball joint had popped out and was loose ala the shimmy. Both ball joints on the thrust arms were shot and loose. The only trick that I had to use on putting on the passenger's side ball joint was that it would not seat initially and lock nut kept turning the ball joint around and it did not tighten. I solved this problem by using a large C clamp, the one I use when I do brake jobs to push the caliper piston back. I positioned the C clamp between the top of the ball joint and the bracket where the ball joint is attached. I tightened the C clamp and it popped the ball joint in place allowing me to tighten the nut sufficiently.

My next job will be the steering linkage as there is a lot of play in the wheel and I noticed some of the ball joints had the rubber boots ripped. My last phase of the front end work will be replacing the control arms and the sway bar links. The car then should be just like new.... well the front end anyway.

Hey, if this 61 year old guy can do it anyone can.

Best regards,

Al Gray

[BigKriss]

exactly, .

Hey, if this 61 year old guy can do it anyone can.

[KBarcellos]

Don't forget to do the final torque on the bushing bolt with the car on the ground or you'll be back in there very soon. Congrats on the job though, it sure feels good to knock something like that out instead of paying a garage monkey to do it...

[Paul in NZ]

well dne AL,I hope Sean helped!

[Ross]

Your first BFH at 61? Makes you feel young again doesn't it?

[BennyM]

Congrats! That's not an easy job, especially if one does it in a 17 degree garage and everything is already rusted to everything else like it was for me. It took two pickle forks, a sledge, a torch, and a patient friend. I think next time I'll pay someone else.

[e34.535i.sport]

Congrats! That's not an easy job, especially if one does it in a 17 degree garage and everything is already rusted to everything else like it was for me. It took two pickle forks, a sledge, a torch, and a patient friend. I think next time I'll pay someone else.

Just buy one of these- you won't even get a sweat on...

http://www.chrometrader.co.uk/~ct-pr...small/0282.jpg

[Al Gray]

Don't forget to do the final torque on the bushing bolt with the car on the ground or you'll be back in there very soon. Congrats on the job though, it sure feels good to knock something like that out instead of paying a garage monkey to do it...

For the final torque I had the car on ramps as suggested by the maintenance publication on the website.

Al

[Al Gray]

well dne AL,I hope Sean helped!

He helped to some degree. His brother, Kyle, is more of the mechanic kinda like the Old Man.

Al

[Al Gray]

Hey Al, when you do the front steering stuff assemble the ends and center all together before removing the old. Use air tools as necessary to seat the parts. get the car on the ramps and turn the steering slightly back n forth to relieve any stresses on the joints and tires.

When you remove the steering as an assembly put the new "unit" up in there and adjust the tie rods to fit perfectly in the hole before snugging it down. This should keep the tires straight before alignment. Start with the steering arm then just stick the idler in and snug, then adjust the ends to fit into the holes without disrupting the wheel stance.

Another trick for them son bitch lock nuts is to torque them down with a non lock nut before using the lock nuts.

Did this and didn't need an alignment but paid anyways, .05 degree off damn, I'm good.

if your close i'll drive on over and drink vodka and watch...