broken door bracket repair E32 - DIY

[shogun]

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/560700
Often symptoms are that the door is not locking/unlocking, or it unlocks after closing again or vice versa, doorlock pin does not come up. Reason is that the GM does get a feedback from the microswitches in the doorlock system, that something is wrong from standard settings.

[shogun]

some more repairs
https://www.shiftbmw.com/model/e32/doorlock-bracket/
and the extra strong version by Gale
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/door1a.jpg
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/door2a.jpg
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/door3a.jpg
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/door4a.jpg
from a German E32 forum: One of the causes is a break in the basic construction, made of die-cast aluminum of the door handle. More precisely, on the arm that holds the actuator of the central locking. If you have such a defect, you have the choice of replacing the door handle or repairing it. Replacing the handle means that the lock must also be rebuilt. In any case, the entire mimic, WITH the rotary latch lock together, must be removed. This means taking out the window, including the window regulator. The approach for a repair I had already seen at bmwe32.masscom.net. But the handle was out. But I thought to myself, this can also be done without removal! The only difficulty is basically, how can I drill inside the door! My solution: With the flexible shaft of the Dremel! May be that it also works with one or the other cordless screwdriver, for me the flex shaft is the standard. The only drawback, more than 4 mm drill bits do not go into the driver. With M4 screws a bit tight, but we drill here in aluminum. Since the hole can be conveniently widened a bit. For the repair is needed:
4x M4x20 cylinder screw (Allen)
1x commercial angle from the hardware store (30x30x15x2mm)
Suitable washers and nuts
Dremel with flexible shaft
Cordless screwdriver
1x 4mm drill bit
1x 5mm drill
An angled marker (or similar)
A good industrial glue (optional)
Time required, incl. disassembly and reassembly, 1 hr.
First the servomotor has to be removed to make space to work. Then I adjusted the angle the angle of the straight surfaces (above and at the arm) to each other,is greater than 90°. With me it was helpful that with the break still a piece of the vertical surface remained. With e.g. 2 pipe wrenches the angle can be bent apart comfortably. Do this in small steps and check more often.
If this fits, stop the angle, place the drill in the first hole of the angle and then drill a little with the 4mm drill. Remove the angle and drill through. I could screw the M4 screw afterwards, from below into the drilled hole. It is soft aluminum, there cuts a normal screw already times a thread. To fix the angle and drill the 2nd hole is sufficient, later there must be nuts+bolts on it!
Now the 2nd hole can be drilled. Screw in and then mark the holes on the broken arm. For this we have to place the part as exactly as possible at the breaking point. If the angle was bent exactly, the gap should be correspondingly small. Use the angled rip nail for marking. I then drilled 2 holes at the appropriate points with the 5mm drill bit. Since I was a little sloppy, I have the holes with a cutter slightly expanded (with the Dremel). This also works with a drill, if no cutter is at hand. If the holes are then matching, I recommend to glue the part! To do this, apply a good industrial adhesive to the broken edge and contact surface and place the broken piece exactly. After pressing on for a minute, it will look like this. Now insert the screws with the corresponding washers from the front, put the nuts on and tighten. The glue I used needs pressure and about 12 hours for maximum adhesive strength. Of course, the servomotor can be put back in place already now. I aligned it according to the old screw dimensions and screwed it tight. I put on the torn off piece of sheet metal and glued the two parts with a washer. With the pressure of the screw and the appropriate clamping should hold that...