M60 engine mount replacement

[bubba966]

So as I could hear my fan very lightly contacting my upper rad hose at 1,800 RPM I figured it was time to replace the engine mounts before they are bad enough for the fan to totally eat the rad hose.

Have got a new pair of mounts. Anything else I should get to go with the mounts? Am thinking I might pick up new nuts/bolts to go with the new mounts. Probably don't need new hardware, but I like to do that for some odd reason.

And is there a good writeup on doing the mounts for a 540? Bentley says nothing about it. And I found only one writeup here in a search that wasn't written up very well.

Would be nice if someone made some poly mounts for these things...

[e34.535i.sport]

Hey,

Just done mine a week or so ago. M30 but I would imagine a similar deal. I didn't change the hardware but normally do - it was sound anyway so no worries on that side.

The only thing I found was whe jacking it up I had to bend the fins of the fan around the shroud gradually as they would have snapped something otherwise... Or remove the shroud up to you?! Keep an eye on it as your jacking up!

You'll probably need a good few extensions for the ratchet, but the nuts shouldn't be on too tight.

On mine there's a few holes for the studs to go through so make a note of the old one's position by feeling up through the holes before you take it out, so you know for later.

Be prepared for the car to feel much more responsive too if the old ones are bad - I was surprised at how different it felt. One of mine was really goosed before though!

[632 Regal]

there are 2 write ups for this, one involves 16 feet of socket extensions and contortionist bends to get the drivers side... the other is fairly straight forward. Wouldnt you know it, my links have gone dead! Not even in my saved files... Arghhhh!!!!

[bubba966]

Hey,

Just done mine a week or so ago. M30 but I would imagine a similar deal. I didn't change the hardware but normally do - it was sound anyway so no worries on that side.

The only thing I found was whe jacking it up I had to bend the fins of the fan around the shroud gradually as they would have snapped something otherwise... Or remove the shroud up to you?! Keep an eye on it as your jacking up!

You'll probably need a good few extensions for the ratchet, but the nuts shouldn't be on too tight.

On mine there's a few holes for the studs to go through so make a note of the old one's position by feeling up through the holes before you take it out, so you know for later.

Be prepared for the car to feel much more responsive too if the old ones are bad - I was surprised at how different it felt. One of mine was really goosed before though!

The 6's are much easier to do than the 8's from what I've read. And the fact that the mounts on an M50 are right there and unobstructed, while the M60's aren't.

Will probably just detach the fan shroud and let it hang as that takes just a few seconds. And need to detach the expansion tank as well apparently.

I doubt that my right side mount is very bad. The left side one is the bad one. Don't think it's too bad yet, but it certainly could use to be replaced.

[MBXB]

Bubba,

I have 2 different procedures saved up in PDF: one by stargazer, and the other by shogun.
Which one dhave you looked at?

[bubba966]

Bubba,

I have 2 different procedures saved up in PDF: one by stargazer, and the other by shogun.
Which one dhave you looked at?

Wasn't one from either of those two.

[BigKriss]

mattyb has done a write-up also for this job

[MBXB]

Here's a link to MattyB's Imageshack pics:

http://img36.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=ag280294gm.jpg

[MBXB]

Engine Mounts 1 Hour!

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showt...e+Mounts+1hour!

[632 Regal]

heh my links work again LOL... Thanks Ramon!

Wasn't one from either of those two.

1.have beer first to have a think about it!
2.put car up on ramp and open bonnet.loosen the 10mm bolts on each side of expansion tank so not to crush it when raising engine, itll go uo and back when raised.
3.get under car and prepare jack. i had a piece of steel to go across the ramp. postioned jack under front of sump and placed a piece of timber against the sump.jack up and take a bit of the weight to check jack.
4.chock rear wheels and assemble tools. 1x12mm open/ring combo.1x13mmopen/ring combo. 17mmsocket,13mm socket,ratchet,10mm socket.6mm socket.make 17mm ring special tool.piece of bar about 10inch long with a notch in the end to fit 17mm special spanner.
5.remove skid trays with 10mm socket or spanner, take both off.
6. on the left side remove the airduct which goes to the alternator. it joins halfway along with a 6mm head on it. while ur there have a look up the duct to the alternator, mine was full of **** like leaves etc.
7.on the right side there is an earth on the mount bracket.its gotta come off or youll not get the swing on the 17mm. the earth is 12mm on top and 13 on bottom. its positioned upside down. loosen the top nut and fold earth lead out of the way. lift with jack and the bolt will fall out of the hole.
8.now this special spanner. 17mm flat ring spanner. go to a cheap shop and buy a set for $2. cut the 17mm down to 3inch from the ring end. grind the outside of the ring section so its thin and smooth.if u cant do it yourself take it to a garage etc and theyll do it for $5.
9. take the 17mm ring and have a feel around the mount braket at the top and youll find the bolt.it takes a bit but once your familiar with it yull be right.it pulls toward u but it shouldnt take to much.you get enough turns on it to take a minute or so.dont raise the car or youll make it harder.theres a washer up there to so keep an eye out for it.
10.with the 13mm socket and the 17mm socket go to the underside of the mount and take off the bottom nuts.
11. now the left side.get your hands up there first to feel ur way around it, bit like a woman.it feels imposible but youll see the special spanner will fit ok.get it in there and then get the bar with notch in end.position this at right angles to the spanner, lock it on and give it a whack with a decent hammer. this should crack it. i had 2 people on this so i could hold the spanner onto the nut with my fingertips. dont go beserk with it as theres about 3inches to play with before u break other ****. it winds off pretty easy after that.
12. then same underneath with 13 and 17 mm sockets.lift car with jack, take caution, i had leo up top watching the expansion tank clearance and the fan over the radiator shroud. as we moved the engine up the fan should just clear the shroud. if it doesnt just turn it and help it a little bit. the action of jacking up on the angle helps it to clear.
13. ok so mounts come free and out they come.remember that with rubbers they are always smaller,being older than new going in. mounts are particular to each side. jack up a bit more and ready for new ones.
14.doesnt matter what side first. we put the left in first and started the top nut first. being up a bit meant we could hold the nut and screw the mount around to do it up. that way ur not cursing having to do it up with the tool, just have to tighten later. then the right with care to put the earth nut in first before the mount.
15.make sure mounts are positioned for re entry and lower the car gently. taking care of the position of the fan and shroud.down it goes and secure the 13 and 17mm bottom nuts. tighten top nuts- put the 17mm special up there and use a big bar to lever the spanner tight. brace it off the crossmember, easy with 2 people so one can hold the top of the spanner onto the nut. earth lead back on. air duct back on. expansion tank back on. skid plates back on.
16. look at old mounts and feel embaressed about how long it took me to do this. drink beer and hail leo, the master special tool maker.wonder what i was freaking about going into this and busting to get it on here so u guys vould have a look.