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Thread: Coolant Warning and Temperature Guage High

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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    156

    Default Coolant Warning and Temperature Guage High

    Cool morning these days yet after maybe 10 minutes, the coolant warning displays and the temperature guage is in the red zone.

    Literally, if I pound on the dash above the instrument cluster the damn needle lowers back to the 12 o'clock position in like 10 seconds.

    New BMW coolant, t-stat, water pump, hoses, etc. a couple of months ago.

    WTF?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Long Beach, CA
    Posts
    2,563

    Default

    Did you bleed the cooling system of air bubbles?

    Ralph Mendoza Jr. - Long Beach, CA

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    429

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by angusbn View Post
    Cool morning these days yet after maybe 10 minutes, the coolant warning displays and the temperature guage is in the red zone.

    Literally, if I pound on the dash above the instrument cluster the damn needle lowers back to the 12 o'clock position in like 10 seconds.

    New BMW coolant, t-stat, water pump, hoses, etc. a couple of months ago.

    WTF?
    it is funny because I have the same kind of issue on my M20.

    The temp needle is at 12h then after a roundabout, it goes to the red!! and it stays there. I freak out and stopped the engine.

    sometimes it also goes from very hot back to 12h quickly.

    new pump, new head gasket, new coolant.

    usually when going at low speeds, temp needle goes near red, even though my mechanical fan clutch is very tight.

    i removed my t-stat and now temp needle is just above blue, except for low speeds periods where it goes up to first white stripe.

    and I bled the air bubbles,

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,483

    Default drilling a hole

    Read somewhere that you can drill a hole in the thermostat and release the air trapped in this area.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mordan View Post
    it is funny because I have the same kind of issue on my M20.

    The temp needle is at 12h then after a roundabout, it goes to the red!! and it stays there. I freak out and stopped the engine.

    sometimes it also goes from very hot back to 12h quickly.

    new pump, new head gasket, new coolant.

    usually when going at low speeds, temp needle goes near red, even though my mechanical fan clutch is very tight.

    i removed my t-stat and now temp needle is just above blue, except for low speeds periods where it goes up to first white stripe.

    and I bled the air bubbles,

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Gateshead,UK
    Posts
    926

    Default

    Yeah you can drill a small hole in the T-stat, it really does help. M20's are a pig to bleed, and the temp-guage swingometer symptom is proof lol! If you 'blow' the air pocket out of the heater matrix by loosening the t-stat & rad bleeders and erm, 'blowing' the coolant down through the system you will get the coolant coming out of the t-stat bleeder then the rad bleeder shortly after. Remember to close each bleeder when coolant appears, and also to top up the expansion tank as the level drops. This method has worked for me many times on many makes of car but you must be careful!!!

    HTH,

    Shaun M

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    518

    Default

    The temperature gauge is operated by the sensor under the hood, which changes resistance placed between the signal wire and the ground reference wire. Since pounding the dashboard fixes the issue, you probably have an insulation problem with the signal wire. If it touches a metal piece somewhere along the way and is not insulated, it'll peg the gauge in the full hot position and set off the warning. Find the place where it is grounding, and you'll solve your issue. Good luck!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Windy City
    Posts
    606

    Default

    Always wondered about the arrows on the thermostat. Found out the arrows mean UP or DOWN. You need to point the arrow either at very top or bottom. At least that's the correct way of putting in a thermostat. DON'T LET SOMEONE TELL YOU IT DOESN'T MATTER WHICH DIRECTION IT POINTS. Anyway, you should just take you car to a shop with pressure coolant flush system to get that stubborn air out. I had an issue with my car overheating and I tried everything but problem remained. Local shop had the pressure system and now it is perfect (heats up fast and stays perfectly at 12).
    RICK
    BMW 1995 525i (Alpine White)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,843

    Default

    arrow or checkball thingy goes UP
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick L View Post
    Always wondered about the arrows on the thermostat. Found out the arrows mean UP or DOWN. You need to point the arrow either at very top or bottom. At least that's the correct way of putting in a thermostat. DON'T LET SOMEONE TELL YOU IT DOESN'T MATTER WHICH DIRECTION IT POINTS. Anyway, you should just take you car to a shop with pressure coolant flush system to get that stubborn air out. I had an issue with my car overheating and I tried everything but problem remained. Local shop had the pressure system and now it is perfect (heats up fast and stays perfectly at 12).
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Windy City
    Posts
    606

    Default

    I was told either way will work as long as it is at the top or the bottom. Some of the thermostats have two arrows (opposite end of each other).

    Quote Originally Posted by 632 Regal View Post
    arrow or checkball thingy goes UP
    Last edited by Rick L; 11-07-2008 at 03:51 AM.
    RICK
    BMW 1995 525i (Alpine White)

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