M70/M73 ignition wire sets L+R NEW

[shogun]

made on special order and available now. Presently have them in black or red colour available. Consist of all 12 ignition wires with plugs between plugs and distributors, and 2 wires with plugs between ignition coils and distributors. Red set plugs are also black, same as the black set plugs. Not included: -bracket/cable channel, to be used from existing one engine
-2 donuts/speed sensors (can be delivered at extra price new, either BMW OEM, or made by FACET, whatever you like). But usually the old donuts are re-used. Instructions to refit them, see inside link. Longer delivery time for this, as no stock presently for donuts.
-no marten protection on the ignition wires (that was also optional on the OEM), cable 'rubber' and plug 'rubber' made of silicon material. So much softer than the OEM ones.Plugs are woodscrew type connections, easier to use than the OEM metal bush connections which sometimes fail.

In case of interest send me a PM with shipping details. old<> new http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/767718

fits: E32 750iL 1987-94 5.0 Ltr M70 B50, E38 1995-01 5.0,5.4 Ltr M73, E31 850Ci/i 1991-94 5.0 Ltr M70 B50, E31 1995-97 5.4 Ltr M73, E31 850CSi 1994-96 M70 B50. The approx. length from end to end incl. the boot on each side, so you can double check on your car: the one which goes between ignition coil + distributor 54 cm/21.3", 44cm/17,3", 51cm/20", 60cm/23,6", 70cm/27,5", 77cm/30", 85cm/33"

Update 2018-07-18: All blue ignition wires sold.
Black ones Price per set of black ignition wires consisting of 12 ignition wires between distributors + spark plugs + 2 wires between ignition coils + distributors = total 14 wires US$ 190 ex Japan + shipping to tr country.
RED ignition cable sets consisting of 12 wires between distributors + spark plugs + 2 wires between ignition coils and distributors = total 14 wires US$ 210/set ex Japan + shipping to yr country.
Paypal o.k. Please contact me by PM with shipping address. Make sure your old plastic ignition wire tubes are not brittle.

[shogun]

Importance of functioning donuts, cyl. identification sensors M70
I just read in the German forum about a case where someone changed on his M70 distributors, rotors, spark plugs and ignition wires on cyl. 6 and 12 and used the re-old donuts. Then he had trouble. Engine starts, runs short time with increased RPM and then dies. EML lamp goes on with ignition on and then goes out again as it should be. Diagnosis faults: fault ignition cylinder 1-6 and 7-12. That was 2 weeks ago. Today he fixed it. He noticed that he installed the cylinder identification sensors/donuts/pulse generators on ignition wires cyl. 6 and 12 the wrong way. Turned the donuts the correct way and engine runs starts and smooth.
Apparently there no direction marks on the original ones, if I remember correct.pics from ECS website, original https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/12121725020/
Aftermarket pics based on boodmo info : Facet 9.0103, ERA 550277, MEAT & DORIA 87418, SIDAT 83357, Hoffer 7517418

This is not the first time that I read that when donuts are not working properly or the ignition wires/plugs # 6 and 12 are not functiong, there will be engine problems.
So if the M70 starts, idles for some seconds, then dies, also check the ignition wires, plugs and donuts from cylinder 6 and 12. The usual cause of running for a few seconds and then stopping is the lack of cylinder identification signals. These are provided by the inductive sensors on HT leads 6 and 12. When you get a fault with INPA ti-signal, this is the injection time signal, the base timing is derived from the cylinder identification signal. We had the same problem some years back on an 850: lack of cylinder identification signals. In our case the ignition wire boot of cylinder 12 was lose/not connected to the spark plug. Before we checked the usually subjects like fuel pumps, fuel pressure, ignition = distributors + rotors, crankshaft position sensors.

The car is telling you what is wrong, the CID sensors... Make sure you have them plugged into the right plugs? Make sure they are actually any good? Bad "donuts" have been a common problem with some replacements...(aftermarket).

Another comment: Friend had same sort of problem a while back, motor would start and then died shortly thereafter. He'd brought it used from out of state. I had a suspicion after listening to the motor start and die a few times that not all cylinders were firing. I took a look and found they were from a 3 series! Popped in a spare set from an M70 and the car fired up and purred like a kitten. Turns out original owner sold car because it kept shutting off.

So important is, when you change ignition wires and re-use the old donuts, make sure the donuts are installed the same way as original, not flipped. Basically it is not possible to installed them the wrong way, because the donut inner ring is conical and not round, so it should go onto the wire only one way. but some apparently squeeze it on the wrong way.

[shogun]

Shogun's Plug Wire Install Write Up (written by James, his car:1992 750iL)

Installing Shogun's plug wires.

I did not take pics, sorry. I am the impatient type and taking pics takes too long plus I don't wear gloves so I would have to wash my hand every time to pick up my camera. So hopefully my write up will be good enough to understand and if you have questions please let me know.

This will be in a semi bullet/step style write up with notes, I will not bore you will some hurdle details I needed to overcome just the fixes/work arounds.

First off these wires are excellent quality!

The "wood" screw type connector is traditional type i.e. if you are looking at the top of the screw it is clockwise on counter clockwise off. Righty tighty lefty loosey.

I laid out all wires to get the groupings done and label all the wires with 1-12 by the distributor boot.

I Installed the CI sensor on 6 and 12 wires. 1st hurdle, I could NOT unscrew the plug ends because the rubber boot was so tight and I could not verify removal unscrew direction at this point. I just pulled the boot off with force hoping it would not damage anything else. Once that was done and the plug end was cleaned of any remaining wire in the screw portion I was able to verify righty tighty lefty loosey. Installed CI Sensors. 2nd hurdle could not screw the ends back on due the rubber boot being so tight. So I removed the actual plug by prying it out. Once out I slid the boot over the wire and down a few inches then screwed the ends on and slid the boot over the ends. Be careful push/pull only on the plug itself (NOT THE WIRE) when doing this so you don't pull the wire out of the plug again. I used some dielectric grease to help.

Installed the wires into the guides, this took some playing around to get the wires to lay nicely.

Installed wires and guides into car, unplugged at this point.

** These wires do not self align to the spark plugs or the distributor cap plugs like the OEM wires/boots, more on this at end of write up**

Started to plug wires on to plugs. 3rd hurdle, I could not get the boots to plug onto the spark plugs, see note above. This took a while but the fix was to wiggle the plug boot around till it lined up on the spark plug and push hard. Once I realized this it was not a big deal.

Started to plug wires to distributor. 4th hurdle, once again you have to wiggle the boots around to get them to plug in.

Plugged CI sensors in

After install was done just a quick double to make sure I had correct order on distributor cap I started it up.

**So more on the wire plugs. I cannot say for the spark plug side of the wire why it did not self align but the distributor side I can say it is because the portion of the plug that goes into the distributor is thinner then the OEM plugs so they will not self align. I am assuming that it is a similar issue with the spark plug side being that the boot is a bit too wide to align on spark plug. Either way you HAVE to wiggle the boot around till it seats properly and then push, this took some time the first go around. If/when I have to do it again it will be much faster.**

Install time: 3hours, once again it would have been about 1-2 hours if I had the forehand knowledge of the screw direction and the alignment.

[shogun]

a complete set from aftermarket has these measurements: side of cylinder 7-12 72/64/59/46/39/33 cm, side cylinder 1-6 75/68/60/50/41/34 cm. Longer and a bit shorter no problem. Donut is approx. 50 cm long
Cable - double layer of silicon with braid conductor - copper wires 1mm - tin plating. Silicon terminals with suppressor resistor (used boots and terminals are identical to the original). May be applied to vehicles equipped with LPG installation.
Will fit on the BMW tube http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/767718/
outer diameter of the black cable version is (roughly) 6.90 mm =0.271 in. outer diameter of the blue wires (roughly) 7.06 mm =0.278 in.
The approx. length from end to end incl. the boot on each side: the ones which go between ignition coil + distributor 54 cm/21.3", others 44cm/17,3", 51cm/20", 60cm/23,6", 70cm/27,5", 77cm/30", 85cm/33".

Important Note: Never pull on the ignition wire when you want to remove the boot from spark plug. Always pull, twist and wiggle on the boot. Or use a spark plug plier boot removal tool, there are special tools that perform well in difficult areas such as recessed and obstructed plugs. If you pull on the wire you might find a metal collar is left on the end of the spark plug – this is not a problem. This type of ignition boot uses a friction fit metal collar that is designed to separate from the boot if it gets stuck on the spark plug. The simplest solution is to remove the spark plug, remove the collar, and reinstall the collar into the plug. You can also try to remove the collar with the spark plug in place using long nose pliers but make sure you don't drop it; use a magnet, if required. Clean the inside of the collar and push it (small hole in first) down into the boot until it seats on the end of the wire.
https://postlmg.cc/gwXDtg4w

[shogun]

M30/M70 ignition system data accdg to Bentley
Coil primary, coil code # 2051118335 terminals 1 (-) and 15 (+) resistance 0.50 ohm
Coil primary, coil code # 20510171101 terminals 1 (-) and 15 (+) resistance 0.37 ohm
Coil secondary, coil code # 2051118335 terminals 15 (+) and 4 (ctr. resistance 6.0 kohm
Coil secondary, coil code # 20510171101 terminals 15 (+) and 4 (ctr. resistance 9.0 kohm
spark plug ends 5.0+/- 10% kohm
shielded plugs 1.0 +/- 20% kohm
spark plug wires 0 ohm (approx.)
rotor 1.1 +/- 10% kohm

M70 firing order: 1-7-5-11-3-9-6-12-2-8-4-10
crankshaft position/rpm sensor:
540+/- 10% ohm

from workshop manual
distributor rotor 1+/-20% kohm
angled/shielded connectors 1+/- 20% kohm
spark plug connectors 5+/- 20% kohm
cylinder identification sender coil resistance at 20 degree C (68F) <1 ohm
pulse sender/crankshaft position sensor coil resistance 540 +/- 10% ohm
temperature switch for e-box cooling E32 750: switch on at 44 +/- 3 degree C, switch off at 36 +/- 3 degree C.
Picure of the set

[shogun]

@Vostro: 1 set ignition wires for your E32 750iL M70 shipped to Selfoss, Iceland
@Ive: 1 set shipped to Belgium for your E32 750 M70 engine
@Mike: 1 ignition wire set for your '97 850Ci M73 shipped to Indianapolis
@Nicolas: 1 set for your 1988 E32 750iL shipped to France
@Donatas: 1 set for M70 in E31 850 shipped to Lithuania
@Muhammad: 1 set ignition wires for your E31 850 with M73 engine shipped to Dubai, U.A.E
@Magnus: 1 set ignition wires in RED for your E38 750 with M73 shipped to Kumla/Sweden, Note: reply from Magnus after installation: Finally I found some time to install the wires . On the M73 in E38 I noticed that the wires to the coils differ in length compared to the original wires, one is approximately 100 mm shorter and one is approximately 150 mm longer. A slightly different routing of the cables solves that issue. All the other cables are also a little shorter compared to the original ones but that is not a problem. Installation went smooth for being a task under the hood on the 750. // Magnus
@Robert: 1 set ignition wires for your 1991 E32 750iL M70 shipped to AZ

[shogun]

Here's a quick & simple write up by a forum member with pictures for installing cylinder identification sensors aka donuts on wires #6 and #12. These wires are identified by comparing length with the rest of the wires, them being the longest ones obviously. On the distributor boot end of the wire, get a slim flat blade screwdriver and slide it between the rubber boot and the wire. Use a lubricant of your preference, in my case WD-40, and spray it liberally. Follow up with more lubricant into the boot opening.



Work it in and you should be able to simply slide over the rubber boot towards the inner part of the wire like this. Hold the wire and push on the boot, don't pull on the cable. Use more lubricant if necessary as you don't want to pull on the wire and stretch it.



Grab and hold the wire with a microfiber cloth (for better grip) and start unscrewing the plug in anti-clockwise direction. It takes a decent amount of force to unscrew the plug so don't be afraid to use it as you can't really do any damage here.
The plug simply unscrews and the woodscrew inside looks like this.




Remove the rubber boot from the wire and it's time to install the cylinder identification sensor. The direction in which the sensor is installed matters. If you are reusing your old sensors, simply install them using your old wires as a reference.
If you are installing new sensors, as I did, the 4 tips/prongs should be pointed in the distributor cap direction like this.




Lubricate the rubber boot and slide it back onto the wire.



Grab a pair of sharp scissors and cut off 3 mm of the end of the wire thus getting a fresh bit of the wire where the woodscrew will go in.



Apply WD-40 on the end of the wire and reinstall the plug by screwing it back into place in the clockwise direction. Slide the rubber boot over the plug, if needed use more WD-40 to help boot slide easier without putting stress on the wire.




Now we want to verify that we have a proper connection and installation was successful. Break out your multimeter and set it to measure resistance (Ω). Stick a test lead at each end of the wire and you should be getting a readout of around 6 kOhm. This goes for all 12 wires, spark plug boot is 5 kOhm and distributor cap boot is 1 kOhm. The wire for ignition coil to the distributor cap is 2kOhm.



Additionally, you can wiggle and bend the wires slightly to make sure the connection is constant and doesn't drop.



Job well done.

[shogun]

@Jamie: 1 set for your E31 850i shipped to Victoria, BC
@Patrick: 1 set for your 1996 E38 750il M73 shipping to Lansing, MI
@Stephen: 1 set for your E31 850 M70 shipped to Ireland