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Thread: Glove box wont open :(

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    32

    Default Glove box wont open :(

    I recently bought my 540i and the glove box wont open, the handle lifts but it doesnt seem to actuate the mechanism, I first thought it was locked but does the same thing in both key positions.

    Both the hinges have fallen off the bottom of the box, so it is basically hanging on by the latch.

    Any idea's how to get it open without using brute force and ruining something?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
    Posts
    4,243

    Default

    The hinge at the rear of the glove box is easily released with two clamps.
    This will give you a little access to try and free the latch(common failure) from inside.
    Does someone have a pic of the latch to help this guy understand how it catches?
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,268

    Default

    Unable to open the glove box Solution (procedure from Dhanraj R.)
    Slide under the glove box and you will find two snap latches connecting the back of the glove box to a metal rod (horizontal). Unsnap these two latches and the entire glove box will now be able to move forward by about 1/2".
    This will allow you some space to access and manipulate the latch from the top right edge of the box. Use a long, thin flat blade and depress the latch. (I had to look at a new replacement piece to understand what part of the latch to depress).
    With the glove box open, you will need to replace the latch. You will not need to replace the lock.

    http://www.bmw4life.com/microFilter.htm
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E34-GLOVEB...20127003r35635
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-e...ayphotohosting
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E...ayphotohosting
    http://www.digest.net/bmw/archive/v8/msg09288.html
    that is all I found.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Haven't had to do this myself, but here are slightly varying instructions I found elsewhere on this board I think and saved just in case I ran into the problem.

    You can drop the back easy enough, but the latch has two wedges out both sides...you will *never* get those depressed with screwdrivers through the back of the glovebox. Here's the solution:

    Remove rear pivot clips as mentioned earlier.
    Pull toward you and wiggle side to side to loosen up a little. Pry downward. You're trying to create a gap at the top of the glovebox door.
    Find Phillips head screws in the gap between the glovebox door and the dash padding. Remove 4 in the center area.
    Pry downward until the sheet metal latch strike plate bends out from behind the dash where it had been fastened by those screws.
    Now you can get two screwdriver to depress the latch wedges on both side of the lock. Door will pop open.
    Using flatbar, bend sheet metal latch strike and tuck it back behind the dash - re-attached with screws previously removed.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    The hinge at the rear of the glove box is easily released with two clamps.
    This will give you a little access to try and free the latch(common failure) from inside.
    Does someone have a pic of the latch to help this guy understand how it catches?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    32

    Default

    Thnaks you very much, why does it fail? does the mechanism inside the latch break?

    Also, I assume once its open I should replace this part.... or is it repairable?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
    Posts
    4,243

    Default

    Once you take it apart you will see the weak link. It's a small piece cast in potmetal, not repairable by ordinary means. the new latch is <$20
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    618

    Default

    I had to replace mine, its cheap and it takes 5 minutes to replace.
    UK 1997 e34 540iA Touring, 1989 535i Sport - now sold, 1998 Mercedes CLK 200 Coupe


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    32

    Default

    The help is really appreciated guys, I'm going to give this a go today.

    I also have to diagnose the driver side window problem, it wont go down, but when you press the button to go up, you can hear the motor actuating, I suspect the switch may have gotten some corrosion on the contacts from standing for so long

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    32

    Default

    Thanks for all the help guys, I got it off.

    I pulled the door forward, undid the screws that I could see and then forced the entire unit down, bending the sheet metal plate down, then I was able to get a screwdriver in there to unlatch the lock pins.


    wrt the electric windows, I pulled the entire control button unit out, took the entire thing apart and cleaned everything. all windows work perfectly now.

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